Zedyone_kenobi

Does it backfire through the carbs or from the exhaust

UPDATE Form those that still care, The great folks at Ztherapy called me back and Steve in then shop installed the carbs on his shop car and Said the air fuel was set too lean by a turn and they liked 3.5 turns out on his car but they experienced zero popping at any rpm. He will look at floats tomorrow. So, the million dollar question is still what would cause leaning out at part throttle that we have not already covered. The last piece of data left is vacuum readings over the rpm band.

The issue seemed to come up around the 8/71 time frame. If you have an A type 4 speed, your tunnel will need some work, or you will need to get creative with your shifter. If your car came with a B type (late 71 and on) then your tunnel will probably be okay. I cannot vouch for the console cutting. I have a Type A in my car and recently had a chance to drive a B type 4 speed. GREAT GOOGLY MOOGLY, the shift action in that thing make mine feel like it was floating in jello. What an incredible difference in feel. I have resigned to the fact that when and if my Type A goes, I will put a fresh B type in there, as my car is a 7/71 and it is close enough to the time when Datsun did it, that I really do not care. 4 speed to 4 speed, should be a clean swap. I will have to fight the internal demons when it comes to cutting the metal in my unmolested 71.

Chris, when I pulled out my ITG's, they were pretty well deteriorated, and looked NOTHING like the pictures. If you still want the air horns you are welcome to them though.

I wager that Detroit is not that Z friendly.. At least not an L series powered Z.

First, Welcome to the forum! Second, I am going to step in and make a few comments here... Judging by your use of English in your post, I assume you are young, which means you have very little financial backing. I could be wrong, but I am going to run with that. Now with that being said, you are asking which model Z would you want to use as a daily driver. The answer is that depends on a great many things. Asking a near 40 year old car to be a daily driver is not out of the question, assuming the car is in near perfect condition to start with. Every 1 dollar you spend in the purchase of the car will save you 5-10 dollars later. That is no joke. There is no way we can answer you unless you provide a realistic picture of your situation. Answer these questions: How far do you drive a day How much money do you have to purchase a car Where will the car be stored What kind of mechanic are you What kind of tools do you have How much can you spend on parts every month Does the car need to reliable every single day What are your goals with car, like intended usage What kind of weather will the car be subjected to Please answer these questions honestly before you do anything else. Asking a 40 year old car to be a daily driver is a tall order. A few members here do that, but they are very experienced and have a back up means of transportation. I wish you luck.

I do want to give a shout out for the extremely willing and helpful people at z therapy! They rightfully earn the good reviews they get

You see I do not entirely recall when I noticed it first. I do remember that when I first installed the carbs they ran perfectly. But sometime after this became a real issue. Nothing to do now but wait. If it is not the carbs then I am totally confused. Cracked manifold? Who knows

This could be an important auction if it gets any visibility. If resto modded Z's start to gain in value, or at least perceived value, the floodgates will open up for more 240Z butchery. Hard to predict what will be in vogue in the future, but as more and more kiddies never learn about carbs, or even worse, they vilify them out of ignorance, swaps may gain in value. Most 20 somethings never learned to turn a wrench, as the first car they owned was a honda civic which thrived on neglect. These engine swaps into Z's require an experienced car guy and tuner... AS far as the pics, I saw two things that alarmed me. It looked like he was holding up the car with exhaust jack up tubes, and it appears that the fuel cell is INSIDE the car. Some of this speaks to a lazy build. The front valance is not painted. THe headlight covers are not installed, why not? I see this car as a maintenance nightmare. Where do you go to have it fixed. It is so far from stock, what Z mechanic would look at it. Good luck on the sale, but this is certainly not my cup of tea. Now if it had an L2X in it, with triples, I would find it far more palatable.

UPDATE: I have thrown in the towel guys. I finally got a hold of Steve @ Ztherapy, and I am sending these carbs into him. He said he will look at them and bolt them to another car to see how they behave on that one. This is it. If these do not come back with some useful information, then I am sunk. By the way, the straight 30 weight, did nothing to help alleviate the problem. As every SU tuning person can tell you, the oil really only works as an accelerator pump. I will post more when I hear back from the fine folks at Z therapy.

Way to go Steve!! that just looks Sexy!

I really LOVE BAT and when and if I ever sell my Silver Z, it will go to BAT first. There is a far more serious air about that place. Not as many low ballers troll there. Many good cars get sold on BAT.

Lower the car really low is not really a plan. More of an action. First I would recommend you decide how you are going to use the car. Daily driver or weekend car? How much can you spend on monthly maintenance? It sounds like you need something different than an S30. Which does not like to be too low .

Mike my fathers health is failing so quickly I cannot make promises, but I would love to drive to San Antonio in my z to meet all of you fine folks

I found ones online that have 40 DCOE 2 Stamped on them

Where do I find the 18 or 151 number.

I think its brilliant! Very good thinking and using what you got. Here is the question, are there any performance gains from this?

It does not HAVE to be webers, but I like the availability of them. I also like how they use the stock throttle rod mechanicals to actuate the carbs. I do not want to run a cable. Also, they still MAKE webers. Mikunis are out of production and I am left looking for older refurbished parts. Seems in the long run that might be an issue. But maybe not. I know Datsun chose Mikuni for other markets, so there is that. The fact that I can buy them new (which now I find out may not be a good thing) and that there are so many more parts still in production for the Webers make me go that way. I do not see any advantage to picking the Mikunis, in price, or performance, or installation, or availability. What am I missing. I have seen the work Wolf Creek does and it is spectacular No doubt. But why go Mikuni over weber. NO thread I have researched showed any measurable way one is better than the other. So I went off intangibles.

http://www.redlineweber.com/ I am contemplating building another L24 for my Z, and wanted to try triples. However, many vendors sells the kit for the Datsun 240Z conversion. MSA, REdline, Peircemanifolds, and may be others. Anybody have any recommendations on which vendor to purchase from.

THIS IS THE REASON THIS IS THE WRONG CAR! When things go hokey, AND THEY WILL, you will not be able to use any service manuals to get a baseline. It is all custom part swapped together. A person with experience with these engines can probably figure it out. Be prepared to spend a lot of money paying a mechanic to 'figure out' what is wrong.

IN all fairness, that motor does not sound great at all. The external blowoff valve is gimmicky and entirely not necessary it could vent to the downpipe and function identically but that costs more money. Tuning for that engine is NOT, let me say that again, NOT going to be easy. Having an engine run is not the same as having it tuned. Granted it may be the camera making it sound like it has a terribly adjusted valve train. I wish you luck, but this is going to be an enormous money pit. You are buying a car that will have Zero baseline tune. You have no manual to go off of to trouble shoot problems. If you go get it, and I do not think you should, since you are clearly infatuated with the motor and nothing else (you have not mentioned the condition of the tires, brakes, hoses, radiator, etc), then install a wideband O2 sensor to see what you are running. I would also install an EGT gage so you can see if you are on the verge of melting a piston. I come from the tuner world of Subaru WRX's and STI's, and the tune is the life blood of your engine. Get it wrong, and you will have many bad things happen very quickly. I will say again, in earnest. This is the right car for somebody, but I do not think it is the car for you. The learning curve is too steep and I am afraid it will lead to discouragement.

OH my dear lord. Next to yours mind looks like a garbage truck!!!!

Beer man, when I wanted to rebuild mine last year, Fastwoman mentioned that the Nissan dealerships not longer stocked those kits, in fact, they had not even heard of the rebuild kit, but I would call courtesy anyway. Keep in mind Advance Auto has brake boosters for 98 bucks....with a core. I installed one and it is working wonderfully.

Okay hold up right there. I am going to echo the rest of the statements here. You are envisioning a super fast street car roaring around town, but what is being sold is a parts bin car. It has been pieced together. How does it have 80 miles on it if it is not together yet? Did he remove parts from it? Upping the pressure by 100% is no something you can take lightly. You will need better engine management, better fuel systems, better fuel pump, better cooling. Assuming you know how to tune everything AND everything is working well enough to be tuned, you will still need to upgrade the rest of the 30 year old car to handle 300HP, like bushings, bearings, mounts, suspension, brakes, steering, electrical, etc. What you see in your head is awesome! Never lose sight of that dream. But what the veterans and myself are telling you is that what is separating you from your dream is about 3000 more dollars at least on top of the car. It is far better to find a mostly stock 280Z running and driving and enjoy it. You can drive it while you improve it and relive all those memories you and your mom had in a car that will start and drive every day. The more stock a car is the more the people on this forum can help you. With untold modifications you are often in left field where to start diagnosing every single ailment the car has. OEM is better for a beginner. Once you have the car running and stock, you and your son can get to modifying it together one day. Find a reliable driver and start to freshen her up as your money allows.

just amazing how fast you guys work! I am jealous!