Zedyone_kenobi

Curse your great memory!

off topic, but I wish I would have bought the ducted spook!

thanks, that is all I needed to know, I get that done easy enough!

You can see the metal through my grill and it is some black due to undercoating overspray, and some 901 silver. What color should that be?

BRE sells a slick new trailer... not sure if it is open or closed.

this came to mind immediately.. http://bringatrailer.com/2012/01/11/1971-datsun-240z-starting-point/

Correct, a spring like the damper spring has MANY coils so the delta movement linearly of each coil is VERY small thus keeping the spring constant practically uniform through the small rise length. What I am hoping is Z therapy knows what they put into my carbs and then upping it a bit. If they do not know,well then I could order a couple of sets and do a side by side measurement myself easy enough using a kitchen scale that reads grams. As long as the initial length is long enough, the numbers need not match any table, as long as they are comparable to one another, I can choose the stiffer of the two.

An automatic Z with cracked dash, shaky front end (read as totaled), torn seats and rust, should NOT cost 2800 dollars. Run AWAY! Keep looking and saving your money. Do not settle for what you almost wanted. Keep looking. It took me a year and a plane ticket to North Carolina to buy my Z and bring it back to Houston!

Yup, but I have had a really hard time getting through to Steve. I have talked to Bruce twice, and he suggested I call the shop, but the shop must be swamped with work. I cannot get any feedback

I will try to crop my video short enough to post! I agree, this thread will live on for years hopefully helping others with this problem as well. I am making a definitive 'WHAT I HAVE DONE LIST' for the next guy. Maybe I will write it as a sticky.

HAHAHA, I needed that. I am looking into buying new damper springs, but I first want to say Thanks to each and every one of you again. I have said it before, but the words do not seem enough to show my appreciation for how much effort all of you have put into my little 'issue'. Motorman, that theory did occur to me. I made a great video of me performing the piston drop test. The test where you install the pistons in the dome with the damper attached and plug the sense holes in the bottom of the piston and let them drop. They dropped darn near identically, but I did not time them, just that they dropped at the same time. Which means air is rushing by them at about the same time.

Just out of curiosity, did you ensure the distance between the push rod that goes into the master cylinder and the master cylinder piston is correct? Part number 2 below: If the pedal is crazy easy to push then you may be pushing air until the pushrod hits the master cylinder piston...

Just like the title says. Who sells the springs that sits inside the SU dome? I really think this may solve my problem I have been having. Well I least I hope it does.

Well my steady state cruise is actually pretty good. What worries me is that factory settings SHOULD work for this motor. I feel like deviating from those may just be masking a deeper issue, so in a sense, I am not fixing anything, I am just covering it up. I really want to FIX this. With that being said, I will try the oil first, as my idle mixture is perfect and scooting up the needles will richen it up, but at this point, nothing is off the table. Thanks so much for putting up with me for so long guys.

The good captain asks the 45000 dollar question. The partial throttle nature of this means it must be vacuum dependent. As Blue suggested, the vacuum inside the manifold, or rather the Delta Pressure from the inlet of the carburetors to the inlet of the cylinder head is greatly dependent on the two things. 1) The engine speed 2) The position of the butterflies in the carburetor. If the butterflies are held constant, and the engine speed increases, the vacuum must go up as the engine is sucking more and more air into the cylinders. If this were happening normally, the SU would allow the piston to rise keeping the velocity constant over the jet needle orifice and enough fuel would come into air stream for close to stochiometric operation. It would seem though that at high vacuum, my pistons are rising up too quickly (remember I am running 10w-30 in the damper now, but lighter fluids made this problem MUCH worse) and the velocity over the jet is not great enough to draw up the fuel. At WOT, the delta P is not so great across the carb and the piston rises more slowly up the dome. I am going to try some thing completely crazy. I am going to put in straight 40 wt in the damper to see if I can force it to suck WAAAY too much gas into the engine. That will be done today if I can. The FSM says do not run straight 30wt. But at this point, I want to try something else. I have not traced ALL the grounds. The connections to the coil are all taped up from the factory still and have not been messed with. I will check those out soon, but I still think this is carb related more than electrical, since it seems throttle position dependent.

At WOT THe AFR stays around 12.9 to13.5 Steve, Doradox, You guys are probably right. Those were the words of a desperate man talking... I have rulled out the 12V power side of the coil getting enough power with the jumper trick. However, I have not checked to see the quality of the coil ground. Although I think that would be just as evident at WOT as it is part throttle.

So does anybody else think it could be valve seals leaking air into cylinder

We took some shots at the electrical system. I bought new plugs and wires and installed and measured the resistance through all of them. I swapped out dizzy with a good pertronix and a coil with a known good car. I even replaced the balast resister even though it is bypassed. I ran a jumper from the battery to the coil to take the tach out of the picture. I swapped out a cap and rotor as well

Clarification, popping is definitely there Again only at part throttle. More evident rise in AFRs in 3rd at part throttle, and again in 4th. . Next step carb swap

Drove the car more today. BIG improvement can be confirmed. Car feels great at any throttle position. At about 5000 rpm at part throttle it still had a popping but I could only get that to happen in second gear not first. If I was not so anal I could live with this just as it is because under normal driving it is butter smooth. It still leans out as rpm goes up with part throttle but not nearly as fast. There was no doubt a vacuum leak in that gasket Normal driving AFRs are about 13 :1 at steady throttle. I could probably run it richer and not worry about it but that is most likely masking the real problem I will drive it more and report back

Too soon to tell on AFR. But they look about the same. Maybe a bit better. It certainly idles better and starts better

I thought the level was suppose to be about 10mm down from the top My fuel level is exactly where the FSM says it should be

Well if the carb insulators do not fix it then I wil gladly take you up on your offer. But there is no need to ship the whole manifold, just carbs. I would have pulled the balance tube off and inspected it but I was worried I could not find replacement gaskets

While installing the new carb spacers (which I am sure was a complete waste of time), I had a brainstorm. If this does not fix it then where else could air be getting into the system? I did notice my intake valve was a little sludged up on the top. It is perfectly believable that the valve guides are a bit worn or the valve seals could be bad. That would allow air in from the valve cover region during high vacuum situations. Not sure how to check the health of valve seals, but I am going to dive into the FSM today to check. My compression check sheds no light on the subject at all as that is only a test of rings and valve seats

Well new intake gasket made the car start super quick and was able to idle while stone cold with zero choke! Just like it use to. Ah haaaa. This has to be good! But initial drive shows same behavior as before but not as noticeable and higher up in the rpm. I need more time to recharacterize it. I had to rush my dad to the hospital last night do I will report back after his health improves or at least stabilizes My idle quality has improved as has cold start so the gasket was a contributor! Good call guys. I have ready to go on two new carb insulators so those will be next