Zedyone_kenobi

I am grasping at anything here man! But they do squeak! HAHAH... Not so much a problem really, but they never use to, now they do...More of a curiosity... than anything. Thanks for the reply, it made me laugh!

Just like the title says, My newly rebuild SU's squeak. I have had my Z therapy carbs on my car for over a year now and they are quite brilliant. Lately though, I have been noticing a squeaking coming from the dashpots as they go up in the dome off idle when I blip the throttle. Is there a way to lubricate these? I did not think they needed any lubrication? But since I am chasing down a mixture issue, I wonder if my needle is not rising all the way and that could be messing with my fuel mixture. I have not had my carbs apart since they left the Z therapy labs. Never needed to mess with them. They were flawless after being tuned and balanced.

I agree, I have called a few around me and they only work on Fuel injected cars. There is nobody with a brain cell left that can work on carbs. They all have been spoiled by OBD-II I am going to invest in a wideband O2 and get my exhaust tapped so I can do some tuning on my own.

Yup, I peeled it off about a year ago. I like the cleaner side better . It happened the same time as when I went to colored OEM turn signals.

This is depressing...But I think for the sake of getting more people, it is the right thing to do. I am going to go sulk

Just called the hotel, and if you are going to cancel, you must cancel by Tuesday if you want your card to not be charged. I think it may be time to talk about an alternative date.

Well, it seems that it gets worse... The forcast is showing heavy rain in and around Frederiskburg Thursday through Wednesday. The entire weekend could be soaking wet. I am going to call the hotel to see if they charge to cancel. I think with the huge attrition, and the likelihood of downpours all weekend long, that we may need to reschedule. Who would be willing to post pone our little excursion?

Okay, this is the last week and the time is finally here! How about we shoot each other a PM with our respective cell phone numbers so we will be able to check up on each other and help one another out should there be a problem. Lets get those cars checked out and most of all, lets have a fun safe week!

Good info on the SM needles. I will ping Z therapy tom get his recommendation on those needles as well

Thats awesome Burl! I think you will be happy. I have yet to see the finished product yet. But I have seen her setup and it looked rather impressive!

how about a link to said FAST wideband! I will let you know!

Shirt update... Okay due to me mostly dragging my feet, there is a small chance I would not have shirts ready before the event. I have a proof being made right now of my design that I had digitized. I really need to see a product I am going to ask friends of mine to pay 25-35 dollars for. (15 for the labor, plus shirt cost 10 - 20 dollars) I have discussed this with the nice lady at: www.bayshoreembroidery.com/ Click on the tab called 'Texas Specials' and you will see the logo ready for use. Same price as I had told you previously. She will grant access to the design to all of you and not charge a digitization fee. She has a huge selection of quality shirts right off her website in all sizes, colors, mens, womens, and juniors. I encourage you to contact her. I met her today and she is just the nicest woman. I plan on doing more business with her in the near future for other gifts I have planned for Christmas. So, again due mostly to my getting behind on everything (currently my Z has it's driveshaft laying on the ground) I sort of dropped the ball on having shirts ready for you guys when I got there. The good news, is you now have direct access to the design, PLUS you can pick any shirt color,style,size you like. I really hope this is not too much of a disappointment. I figured it would be worse to show up with shirts that nobody liked and then asked you to fork over money for.

I will certainly look at that... thank so much. I cannot help but think all of this could be solved with a wide band O2 sensor.

Make no mistake, my car does this popping when the car is fully warmed up as well. Drives me batty. As it did not use to do this...

I do not have any hot water plumbing 5th horseman. Removed when I went with a polished manifold from Z therapy. Granted what I gained in a clean engine bay, I lost in time to warm up the cars. But being as how I live in Houston, being too warm is not normally an issue!

Great inputs guys. Um in no particular order Yes, at 3000 rpm with an digital timing light verified timing at 32 +/- 1 Deg BTDC OH one think I forgot to mention is that Z therapy put SM needles in my carbs...I think they tend to run richer than the needles standard in the US models. Roger wilco on the carb balance procedures. Those are the exact steps I took. All is still right with the world after I came down from the high rpm trim setting. THe car stumbles at 4500 rpm. You can feel it hesitate as it misses. One thing I have not done in a while is a compression check. But a year ago they were all within 5% of each other. I guess the next logical thing is to keep leaning it out until the symptoms exasperate the problem. Just do not want to play too much with detonation as bad things can happen.

Well I tried moving the M/R knobs a half turn to the lean side, and the same thing happens. Wondering if I should keep going more lean or not..

Sounds like you are on the right track. Run a compression test soon. As far as your clutch, it could be the slave or the clutch master cylinder. Check both for leakage.

I have been fighting this for over a year, and now I must surrender to the Z Gods on this board. I am at a loss of what to do next. What I am running? 1971 240Z with 71000 miles. Stock engine with MSA header and 2.5" exhaust Z therapy rebuilt carbs (about 1000 miles ago installed), ran great when bolted up Advance distributors Rebuild OEM dizzy recurved to Eurpoean specs (static timing at idle 13 Deg BTDC, at 3000 rpm I am 32 deg BTDC) I do run a vacuum advance on top of that. New NGK resistor style plugs, but car had problem with new NGK non resistor plugs New Pertonix installed in dizzy, and new flamethrower coil. I have rebalanced the carbs and I am currently almost at 3 turns from the top on the mixture nuts All the fuel lines and filters are new I installed a new fuel pump and I am getting 3.6 to 4 psi at all rpm ranges Running Taylor pro 8mm wires. Car starts immediately even after sitting for a whle and has a rock solid idle at 750 rpm. Engine barely moves. Valves are quiet and in good adjustment as it was dodone 2000 miles ago. Car has super quick throttle response and is a complete joy to drive normally with ZERO issues ever. However, once you get it up to the 4500 rpm range I start getting pops from the exhaust. I get these whether I ease slowly up to 4500 rpm or I nail it, something always happens at 4500 rpm and up. Seems I have had this issue since I owned the car in some form of severity or another. When I first bought the car, it would simply NOT rev past 4500 rpm at all. Now I can get it to rev to 6500 rpm thanks to the Z therapy carbs, but now it is popping pretty bad on the top end. My most recent change was to put the timing to where it is right now (13 BTDC) and it definitely improved, as this is the setting the distributer guru told me to run. Go figure. Now the car pops in first, and a little in second, but will pull to 6500 rpm rather smoothly in second. I do not have a road safe enough to get it to 5000 in third near my house. I keep thinking this is fuel related and not timing related. I am not sure if my M/R is right or not. Popping through the exhaust means to me it is too rich. Before I adjust the carbs again, I would love to get more opinions on this.

Well I am still in the same boat as mizzle. Although my problem is popping from the exhasut at about, you guessed it 4500 rpm. Mizzle I hope you get your floats perfect, good luck. I have not touched my floats since I got my carbs from Z therapy. They ran great then, so my issue must be something else. But what I have no freaking idea anymore.

Sounds like a plan buddy. Always good to meet new friends!

not all SBC are created equally. My advice if you are serious is to build a really stout L28 (maybe 3.1 from Rebello), OR skip the 350 idea as the bore/stroke, does not lead itself to a non truck sounding V8. Instead, if you really want a SBC go with a 302 or 327 with a long rod kit. It will rev clean to 8000 rpm. Now to get really sweet. Skip the standard double pumper holley (which I love) and put a Hillborne style Fuel Injection system on it. 8 short velocity stacks, high compression, high rpm, and presto, and American ferrari. Nothing wrong with that. Of course I would rather see that in a late 60's style Trans Am Camaro or Mustang, but hey, its your Z. A V8 is a ssimple as a hammer an anvil. You can make it any flavor you want. If you want great sound, skip the truck motor and build a screamer.

Thanks guys, I just hope we all have a fun and trouble free weekend!

So, Ben is out and Zcurves is out. Going to miss you guys. I put down the money for all the shirts today, but I still have to buy the actual shirts. If you are not planning on going , please find a way to reimburse me for the shirts you requested. Or let me know and I will just not buy one and ask for a refund on the labor. I wanted to be able to pay for eveything up front, but the additions and subtractions are getting tough to deal with. I certainly do not want to start mailing shirts to people. I am sorry for that. I just am running out of time lately. I really want to do right by you guys...I am trying my best to make this a fun event.

My advise is this. I have assembled a ton of engines in the past (albeit all ford and chevy V8's and a few lawnmowers). Do not get hung up on 200 HP or 194 HP or any HP number. Keep many things in mind. This is a daily driver, so having it run predictably and reliably should be of paramount performance. To get an L24 to hit 200 HP is going to take two things. A big cam and lots of compression. It is a balancing act really. Which means one thing. LOTS of tuning. If your into that, then great...but high strung engines require constant maintenance. What is FAR more important is getting all the components, from the oil pump to the air filter to be matched to work together as a system, and not fight each other. A well matched engine that is tuned perfectly that puts out 180 HP will be FAR more enjoyable than a temperamental 200 HP motor that is always on the ragged edge of pinging, and can't idle and overheats. Think robustness and reliability. And think part matching. You are going with triples, they excel at higher RPM operation. Great, this goes with your larger cam. You will need a head that can flow well with as smooth a combustion chamber as you or your machinist can make. This will help mitigate detonation. A cam with a huge overlap between the exhaust and intake valves will eat into your overall compression. Any large cam will make your idle somewhat worse and compromise your power brakes in repeated stop and go driving as they just do not pull that much vacuum. Growing up I was always the guy with the car that always ran, and was always fast. I never had the most money, but I buried my head in books and learned about the engines I was building from a basic level. What I learned is that money spent without knowledge is wasted. THe L series of engines were like coming home to me. The part interchangeability rivals the Small Block Chevy. Which is impressive. You can build quite the hot rod using nothing but OEM Datsun parts. I hope that helps.