Zedyone_kenobi

MY dad is quite ill, and I can truly sympathize. I wish you the best and want to congratulate you on such a wonderful build. Your car and your work ethic are inspirational to me a when I roll up my sleeves for another project. Also I am not ashamed to say I would do a great many illegal things for your style panasports.

I am not going to bash you at all. IN fact welcome! There are dozens of posts about the MSA twice pipes... just do a little search and you will be very happy.

That sumitomo is a nice offering in that size. Any summer tire is just about guaranteed better than an all season. Wish I would have seen those.

I wish you all the luck in the world. My Z would love to be stripped down and resprayed. So many little things that I know are wrong that this level of restoration would fix. One day...

Tires are a love hate thing. They are, without a doubt, the most important part on the entire car. Seems it is the last place you would want to skimp. I am even thinking of going to 16's just so I can find GOOD performance rubber. The only thing stopping me is that the car is not really an all out screamer, since it is mostly stock and the Ultra High Performance Potenza 960A's I have on there now are truely a good match for a stock HP 240Z. Overtiring it may make the car lose some character. I even thought about going down to 14's just for the lightness. What I will probably end up doing is keeping everything the way it is, and installing some quick steering knuckles. But my mind changes daily. I am funny that way.

For 14's that is steep, but last time I put tires on my Subaru it was almost 900.

OH, is that a BRE remote oil filter I see. VERY nice.

as far as springs go, usually more coils equal weaker spring

you can get your clock out through the glove box...just need to bend your wrist around.

you know Frank, if I can help just one more person, it is worth it. I have been the beneficiary far more times than I have been the helper. I like to do what little I actually can.

UPDATE: I solved my problem I think. The pictures above are accurate and the measurements are correct, IF the car has the stock master cylinder on it. I do not know when, but I do not have the stock MC on it. I had to take measurements and get the appropriate amount of extension to fabricate. Meaning, I found a nice automotive bolt that was M6-1.00 thread and then slowly with a hand file grind away at the head until it was the exact right length protruding form the booster. The result. is NO slop in my brake pedal, and a rock solid and powerful set of brakes. I look forward to moving on to the next project! Summary: Pass through plate had all the rust sanded smoothed and POR'ed. I refinished the firewall and then put back the booster and master cylinder. I had to fabricate a bolt to act as a plunger, but when I got it adjusted right for my particular MC I had the best brakes my car has ever had. It feels like a new car. My advice. Run the tests on your braking system that the FSM suggests. If the brake booster fails, then replace it. Your car will feel like a whole new animal!

QUESTION.. According to the factor service manual below: The pushrod is suppose to be 0.1377" to 0.1575" recessed down form the flange of of the brake booster. Mine was sticking out beyond the flange! I wonder if I am compressing the plunger constantly! I am going to take a mold impression of how much space I have between the push rod and the master cylinder piston! I may have been doing this wrong for a long time. When I took off the previous brake booster, it was sticking out past the flange surface. The picture in the FSM shows it is suppose to be recessed as well... This is curious. The pushrod in this pic #2 is not past the flange. This is what I am going to do. I am going to remove my Master cylinder. Insert some modeling clay in hole where the MC piston is. Then I am going to reattach the MC. I will then take it off again and see if the pushrod is actually touching the MC piston at all. This is an interesting problem. I look forward to getting this right!

Well the 3rd gear in my type A four speed has been whining since I got it. It drives and shifts wonderfully smooth. I have a replacement type A ready to go in, but I have no idea if it is better or worse than what I have, so I left it in until it goes pop. I would like to keep it an original car as long as possible. One day I may be forced to switch to a later Type B 4 speed or 5 speed, but until then I am going to ride it out. Seems when looking to get my type A rebuilt, nobody locally would touch it, as they said they could not even get parts for it anymore. So threads like these make me keep looking for what I will do when I get up the nerve to do a swap.

nah, still 90.5%, but I did redo some door weather stripping while I was add it. You just never know where the next project will come from! THat is why I love older cars!:stupid:

Humm, I may need to check into that. It could be that since my pushrod is not going far enough into the master cylinder that I am not getting enough fluid to my front brakes. I will check this out. Good words of warning.

Well there she is. Installed and ready to go. All I can say is WOW. My 2 year old could press the brakes in the car now. It is astonishing what a difference and how easy it is to press the pedal. What a wonderful upgrade. For everybody who has an old booster, this is one hell of a worth while upgrade. Now the caveats. There is a little plunger/pushrod that sticks out of the booster that presses into the master cylinder. I took careful measurements of how far this was suppose to stick up past the shiny mounting plate I used as a datum. The threads supplied on the refurbished booster were too short to adjust all the way out where the stock booster was. So I was left about 0.100" short of where I use to be. This would be pedal travel I would have to make up before ANYTHING happens, and since it is so close to the pivot, that 0.100" feel more like 1.5" at the pedal before I get any resistance. But when I do, boy do they come on well. Also, make sure when you buy a refurbished booster that you make sure the pin that goes through the brake pedal and the fork of the booster will fit. I got mine mounted and spent 10 minutes try to get that damn thing in and low and behold it was too small. I had to drill it out. Just make sure it fits before and save your back some anguish. Cliff Notes: Was this mod worth doing? Absolutely!!! The cars brakes feel eager to do the task of braking, instead of being mashed into submission. I will look to get some all thread or maybe a bolt and a rounded nut to replace the one I have to get the right distance. But as it is now, I can lock up the rears then the fronts with easily half the effort of before. Some work we do is not flashy and glorious, but it is the little things that add up to make these car feel like their old selves again!

I wish I could get it. The fact that the early 4 speeds are less desirable just makes it that much easier for me to get one. I was in the market for a Type A 4 speed for mine as a spare. People were just giving them away. The problem is that it is near impossible to get one rebuilt as well, as there are just no parts around to do it. I may eventually have to get a more modern Type B tranny, be it the 4 or 5 speed.

WHat is the word on your diff? How bad is it?

Steve, I share your enthusiasm! Congrats on your MSR experience. I have yet to make it here, but I am going to a track day in May at Grandsport. I took the Z out last time and had a BLAST! I too spun off once, but if you did not, that means you were not trying! Good on your for being so fast on that high speed course. I got passed more times than I could count when I was at Grandsport. I just did not have the HP to pass on the straights. And as you know passing in the curves is a no no at most track days. Looking forward to seeing your pics. We should get together some time and compare notes!

Mike B that is all I wanted to see! Thanks so much for the quick help! I am pretty big on supporting our board members, I do believe I will be picking one up. One quesiton, Mike B, is your leather or vinyl?

So it seems I do not have an original style. When I bought my car it had a lace up style. 7/71 build date. I replaced it with another lace up style I had new in a box of spares I had stashed. I may have to spring for that <gulp> expensive OEM style now...

I have installed a new shift boot on my car and while it looks great and new, it is as stiff as a board. Is there an alternative manufacturer of a black shift boot that will not feel like cardboard when I try to move my Type A shifter around. Without the boot, my car feels more gated and the shifter is very tight and snicks into gear wonderfully with little slop. The stiffness and unyeilding shift boot makes my shifter feel muddy and it pulls as the center console. I want a factory looking replacement, that is soft and supple. PS. I know MSA sells boots, but I have no idea if they are a hard leather or a soft leather.

I polished up the mounting bracket and moved it from the old unit to the new unit. I did have an issue though. The pushrod that pushes on the master cylinder on the new booster cannot be adjusted to the exact same length as the one I am taking off. I think I am close, say 1/16" to 1/8" close, but It bugs me that it is not the same. I am pretty sure I have enough pedal travel to make it up, but I would have liked it to be identical. Also, I think the gasket between the mounting bracket and the master cylinder is a dust barrier, and nothing more. There is no seal between the bracket and the booster body. I will probably RTV it up and not worry about it.

You remove them from the piece of hardware it controls. You cannot possibly get to the back of the heater cables on the center console before you remove the center console. Good Luck

Properly tuned SU's will idle silky smooth at 500 rpm. At least mine does. You need to go through the complete SU tuning procedures. Get your air flow right first, then get your mixture right. A healthy engine will not get you through your emission testing, your carbs will make or break you. Spend a day researching on this forum or better yet, but the JUST SU's DVD that Bruce and Ztherapy sells. It is required watching for any Z owner.