Zedyone_kenobi

Buy a complete set of thread cleaning taps. NOT thread cutting taps. Before you put anything back into the block run those thread cleaning taps through them. This will ensure you get an accurate torque reading on everything you attach to that block. Few things in life are more satisfying than using new cad plated hardware into a fresh clean engine block.

I currently run the Eibachs, and I went from Tokico HP's to the Eibach pros. The Eibachs are progressive as stated, and the ride is softer than the Tokicos, but they are darn fine for a street spring. They make getting up and over speed bumps a non scraping affair. They also allow a jack to be fitted with ease even under the spook. Having said that, I though my car looked more aggressive with the Tokicos and since they are NLA I may look into a set of these Vogtlands sprnigs. If they are made in Germany that makes them a cousin to Bilstien, which has to be good!

I think what you are looking for is more Horsepower. The car can only be tuned to a correct setting. Their is not much to be gained from going leaner or richer from correct. Does the car stumble? Does the exhaust pop and spit when you are off the gas slowing down? The 240Z is a peppy car, but by todays standards it is not a race car.

Also make sure the car can stop! No need to get it on the road and run it off into a ditch because the brakes are shot. Safety first.

I don't waste time with regrets. Made somebody a great deal who needed them more than me and we are moving on! Smiles all arond

jaymanbikes, those chrome lugs do help quite a bit!

Guy you are as steadfast as a mountain. My spoiler is the same color as the car. But I am going to try that 240Z door pinstripe (if you mean the purple pinstripe, yuck that is never coming back!). I am also getting new door cards for the interior and redoing all my external badges. I am at that point where next to a paint job, their is not much left to do that will have a noticeable improvement. Having said that I am working with Dave Irwin and we are getting all my turn stalks/ hazard switches/ combo switches redone. I am chasing a weird right rear blinker thing. The more I tear into the car inspecting wiring, the more I add to my punch list. I like to try new things with my car. I cannot help it. I am also going to get some euro bumpers and put them on their as well, and maybe even spring for some original OEM Datsun fogs (995 dollars gulp!). If I ever find a set of head light covers, I have 2 grand stashed for those as well. Just need to get lucky. I already sold the black Konigs, they are going to a very cool new 280Z owner who is getting his build finished.

That is not actually a bad idea... but fitting 4 wheels and tires in my Z may prove difficult.

Agreed and well put. Forget I mentioned it. I have made the same arguments. I am just a little annoyed that I now have TWO sets of wheels and tires I do not need. A complete set of VTO LeMans, and a complete set of Konig Rewinds. BOTH WITH NEW TIRES. This is a bad as the spark plug wire fiasco of 2012. (5 sets of wires... do not ask)

I suppose if I really wanted to lower the nose I could cut a coil out of the darn thing...But not sure that would be smart.

Yeah, I wish I had my Tokico springs back, but I sold them for 75 bucks. I forgot who got them. Now they are NLA..

Oh I fully understand offsets. I just measured that the back space on the panasport is 1/2" MORE than the Konig. I am sure my panapsort has 0 on the back of it as well. I will double check. I double checked my suspension thread, and many say the longer springs go in the front. Jeff G are you sure about the longer ones going in the back? I was sure the ones ending in 1 were the front.

I started to read the description in the auction article and had to stop. Too much BS salesmanship. The wheel choice sucks. The crooked gauges are easy to fix and should have been. They have a Z432, good for them. But they did a half arse preparation of it all. The Fairlady Z 432 offered here is possibly one of the finest examples to come out of Japan. Incredibly rare, as only 420 units were produced, many of which have met their fates on the racing circuit or have been heavily modified beyond recognition over the years. As a result, it is extraordinary to find a highly correct car such as this, and rarer yet in lovely, restored condition, even in Japan, let alone the literal handful that are known to have been imported by connoisseur enthusiasts IF you can read that and not gag, you have more intestinal fortitude than I.

moelk, those are Wats.not Konigs. You can tell by the dish and the way the step downs blend with a curve. The Konigs are not as deep and have straight edges. The front of my car being so high is a mystery to me. I run the same springs as many people (Eibach pros, and noticed the larger from gap immediately. My Tokikos sat with even wheel spacing. No idea why. I bought the eibachs after many recommendations from people but when I put them on I noticed the larger front gap. I have never been happy about it. Love the ride compliance it gives, but do not care for the look.

This image sort of sums it up. the front tire look like a truck tire to me. I cannot shake it!

I just laid a straight edge over both tires, and as I suspected, the Konigs mounting flange is 1/2" less deep so they will stick out more. I am not comfortable with that, as I know with my cars suspension it may rub. I also do not like the look of how far they are sticking out. Just got use to the OEM looking Panasports. I can see Guy smiling now. He always said, I would keep my panasports. So I have to sell my brand new wheels/tires. I can demount them and just sell wheels I suppose ad I can use the tires. Anybody game? Make offer!

They came with the car bud. So I am not sure, but I can measure the back spacing this evening.

OH also of note on these Konigs. They say they are 0 offset, but they are most definitely NOT. I left the front passenger side panasport on the car. The panasport sets in toward the car more than 1/2" more than the Konig. The konigs stick out more. I took a panasport and konig and lay them down next to each other and the tire itself is the same height, so it HAS to be in the offset of the mounting flange. This is troubling as when I turn the tire, their are times I have less than 0.045" clearance between the tire and the front side lower valance. I have not tried this yet, but when I back up and turn, I think this is going to grind the body work. I have not tried yet.

Decided to slap some meatballs on it for kicks. I think it is coming together. I will get the bubbles out later. I am chasing an aggravating electrical issue that popped up out of no where.

I am not sure I like them.. HAHAHAHAAH I think my car needs to be lower for it to work. I will wait until I get my 240Z side sticker on to make up my mind. also may paint my rear spoiler. Have to commit to the look before I give in. A spring change is out of the question as I just put those Eibachs on. I can finally get a floor jack under the engine crossmember and I love it!

Okay, I mounted this side on and dropped the car. First I had no idea I had burned through so much of my old Yokohama S drives. They are over half gone. Second. I am not totally sure on the look. I think maybe once I get the 240Z black door stickers on it may look better. I have grown so accustomed to the Panasports, these look really different. The front centercap is NOT going on. Without some hammer work. For comparison

WEll drat.. Beautiful seats bud. Well done!!

That's the look I was going for moelk Where did you find those and what brackets did you use? S30 yes interior innovations is who I worked with very pleased at the quality

That is simply outstanding...It looks incredible.

Okay another option. Get in touch with a good local upholstery shop. I had the same question about recovering my seats or going with some Kameari seats. Besides the cost to fit the Kameari's their was still a question of if it would fit in the car correctly AND if I would fit in to the seats! Lots to gamble on for over a 2000 dollar investment. I chose to redo the OEM seats, but took it up a notch. I skipped the factory vinyl kits and bought a synthetic leather seat. I also decided to buy brand new foam while I was at it so the seats would ultra comfy. I asked the shop who made the covers to put in extra vents in the seat back. This was my compromise to keeping it OEM fitment and look but with some added JDM touring car seat looks. I told myself I would not embellish the headrest, but I could not resist. As a bonus you get to custom request the stitching of the seat and logo. I requested silver just like my car. Here is a pic inside the car. If you want a more deep bucket you can ask the shop to modify the foam installation to suit you. This is where experts come in and for a very reasonable amount of money, I had these seats redone to my liking. All in I think I spent 850 dollars on covers, foam and shop labor.