Zedyone_kenobi

nope, already ordered the OEM part from courtesy. I am a stickler that way.

To the layman, this is just another engine swapped 240Z. These types of cars never get used to their fullest performance potential, and usually end up in a car collection somewhere. So the logical question is since you can build one visually identical to this for 50% of the money, why would you buy this one?

I will give you a shout! My rear wheel cylinder should be in soon, after that I will shoot you a PM.

Oiluj, your car is just spectacular. VERY nicely done! If you ever want to part with those rims!

Thanks Z curves. I totally respect what you have written. I have done most of what you are talking about, but not all of it. I will probably end up getting a rebuild master VAC. My check valve is in good working order according to the FSM. Not sure how to clean the proportioning valve, but I can read up on it. Calipers, pads, rotors, and shoes are all new. Just the wheel cylinders need to be looked at. I will keep folks updated on my progress here.

It is hard, I am an engineer, I have to know every little detail about every thing. It is a sickness, and I am on a 10 step program for it. NOTE: It was a 12 step program, but I improved it.

You guys are fantastic as usual. I have no dust boot to speak of. The gland nut has some threads showing and I did not think it should. But you have cleared that up for me quite nicely. Thanks very much I was thinking of replacing them perhaps next year. Since my tire is off and the back end is up in the air, I found the shock quite easy move up and down before the spring kicked in and a part of my brain said.. "wait, should it do that?"

I hear ya, but should I be able to see threads in between the top of the shock tube and the cap where the shock rod comes out. I feel I should take a pick or two. or should the top of the shock tube that holds the insert in be completely flush with the shock tube itself?

Well I am in the process of changing out a wheel cylinder, and with the wheel off and the car in the air, I had some time to clean the area pretty well. Well, since I know the PO put on tokiko springs and shocks, I had a look at them. Is the stock shock tube threaded? Or did he have to thread them on to get the struts in the tubes? I have never done anything with a stock 240Z strut. If I wanted to go to the illumina's, since the shock is already threaded would that make it easier?

You mean besides harsh ride, unsafe and unpredictable handling over bumps, horrible camber, and bad tire wear. Not sure...

Some would say a 2" drop is ghetto. Why do you need at LEAST a 2" drop?

So you have a new: master cylinder cleaned lines new calipers new wheel cylinders humm Did the fronts bleed okay? Did the front calipers move freely when you put in the pads in? The proportioning valve may be iffy, I would try to find one.

thanks very much. I am going to source a new wheel cylinder when I can find one. I may even disect mine and take some pictures to see if I can document the problem for future folks.

pray tell where? Everywhere I look I am getting 90 dollars and up.

Scratch Scratch scratch... Well that was the sound my drum brake on the drivers side made today when I took it out to get some lunch for the family. I also noticed that when I let off the gas and shifted into neutral, the car slowed and came to a less than smooth stop. Meaning it felt like the brake was dragging. To test this theory, I put it in first and let the clutch out slowly without giving it gas. THe car will die before it is able to move it under its own power while idling. There was also a lovely smell coming from the rear of the car like pads overheating. So, I got it home, Pulled the wheel off disconnected the E-brake cable rotated the drum so the inspection hub hole was over the wheel cylinder Loosened it up until the drum easily rotated. Since I just put pads on there about 500 miles ago, I greased up the hole in the drum and the guide edge on the axle and it just poppet right off. Lovely. now the mystery comes in. The drum was full of dust, so it was dragging. Now I have to decide if it was dragging due to one of two things. 1) worn rear bearings allowing the rear axle to droop and touch the pads, I do not think this is it, as it was going scratch scratch scratch as the wheel turned, indicating that there was a high/low spot, if the bearing was bad it was just grind and grind constantly. However, when I grab the wheel studs and move them back and forth and up and down, I cannot see or feel it move no matter how hard I look, but I can hear a faint click as I move it side to side. It takes about 2.1 lbs of force to turn the axle so that is about right, and it spins smooth as silk. My gut tells me it is not the bearings although I have NO idea when and if they were ever changed. My car has 70900 miles on it. 2) bad wheel cylinder hanging up from being stored for a while and sticking. When I redid my brakes, I did not change the wheel cylinder as it looked fairly good. Now I do not know. Is there a test I could do on the wheel cylinder, or should I just replace it. By the way, the passenger drum spins beautifully, this is only the drivers side. When I stomp on the brakes the scratching sound stops and but the sticking is far more pronounced. Advice is needed. Me thinks it is a sticking wheel cylinder... but I would love to hear opinions. I know I need a brake vacuum booster, now I may need a wheel cylinder.

I had a 5000 rpm issue for a while, but not a 60 mph problem. Just out of curiosity, what is your timing static and at max advance?

70 cam guy, your car looks just amazing. I lean more toward original usually, but yours is just beautiful, like a light weight prized fighter in appearance. Well done sir!!!

When I redid my exhaust, I just found an aftermarket generic resonator and had it welded in. Worked like a charm, and looks snazzy in polished stainless when it is up on a rack.

I decided to run some diagnostics on my Z brakes booster and check valve system yesterday. The FSM states you should remove the check valve that runs from the manifold to the brake booster and check it for leak down and flow through. Well mine passed. Then it said to measure the leak down of the brake booster after the cars engine has been shut down. The process is described as such: Install a vacuum gage after the check valve but before the brake booster. Test 1 has you run the engine until the vacuum gage reads 19.7 in Hg. Then turn off the engine and monitor the gage for 25 seconds or so and the vacuum drop should be less than .987 in Hg (or thereabouts). My car passed this as well. Then for test 2 it has you start the car get vacuum up to 19.7 in Hg again, and turn the engine off and press hard on the brakes. It says that you should not see a drop over .987 in Hg with the brakes pushed. Mine dropped all the way down to 15 in Hg. I was wondering if this sounds right to you guys. If you push the brakes, wouldn’t that release the vacuum some how? I am wondering if I need a new brake booster diaphragm or just a whole new brake booster? The reason I did this test was because my pedal always feels very hard and I was curious if I had any issues in my braking system. My brakes do work, and I can lock up the tires, but with considerable effort. Any thoughts?

Pertronix should not hurt it. I am running one with absolutely no issues.

Not sure I agree with the stretched look but to each his own. 15x7 rim with 195/60/15's

Agreed, this is awesome. The only thing that would make it more 'complete' is to add descriptions to each URL.

I do get some blurble upon deceleration, but this definitely not the same thing.

real deal SU oil!

I have had my Z therapy carbs on my car for a while and quite frankly they are wonderful. I have had this issue that I wonder if people can shed some light on. If I take my car out for a romp, during the first 15 minutes of driving when I rev it to 4500 slowly it pops at times through the exhaust. But if I step on it and quickly rev it, meaning I do not dwell at 4500 rpm it revs just fine and pulls hard to 6500. Now, if I keep driving around for an extended period of time this occasional popping goes completely away and I can rev smoothly through 4500 with no issues at all. I can even dwell at 4500 rpm with no issues. I wonder at times, if this is due to the manifold not being warmed up and the fuel is not making it to the intake completely atomized. I do not remember this happening in the heat of summer. Just curious. It really is no big deal as the car drives beautifully.