Zedyone_kenobi

DRAT, I was afraid of that. I guess I have some soul searching to do. Does the B type 4 speed use the same shift lever as the A type? Time to start the research... I figure if I can get 30000 miles out of my car with a rebuild then that should keep me going for the forseeable future. What I am not understanding is why is it failing so much? Multiple failures would seem to indicate something else is worn out...

Right now I am thinking I want to keep the car original...so I may rebuild the 4 speed, or find another.. or maybe both. Although, the feel of the 5 speed is like a bolt action rifle compared to the 4 speed. I feel once I do a 5 speed swap, then that will open up the floodgates to MANY more mods. I like the OEM'ness of it all, and I am worried that a tranny swap would detract from the value.... something to think about. I mean how hard can it possibly be to rebuild this tranny... its so simple.

I have been noticing a strange noise coming out of my transmission. My car has 70600 miles on it, and it is a 1971 240Z with a type A tranny. IN all gears the thing seems very solid. However, when I put it into 3rd, it makes a distinct whine. This whine is only present when I give it gas. When I coast it is quiet. Not sure what this means exactly, but I would like to catch any major tranny failure before it happens so I still rebuild it. No other gear makes this noise. Just 3rd. I have replaced all of the engine/trany/dif mounts with OEM nissan parts. I did put the poly mustache bar bushings in though. Any advice/hints would be great.

Your wheels are outstanding! It is going to look beautiful... congrats, and enjoy the journey.

A little wheel bearing grease will hold the key in place quite well for most applications...That is what I use to do in my small block Chevy days.

I was going to comment on how much initial advance you guys are running, but then I realized at where you were.. here in the states we are stuck running 5 degrees initial advance. Which reminds me, I need to source a european dizzy or get mine rebuilt.

Arne, sometimes your expanse of knowledge amazes me. You would think I would be use to it by now, but MAN... you got that from half a stamp!!!! I am humbled sir... HUMBLED

UPDATE: I took Arne's advice and used a copper crush washer on the Beck/Arnley slave and it did not leak at all, and in fact worked. I am still unhappy with the angle of attack on the clutch fork and will replace the B/A slave with the Nabco when it comes in, but I can drive the Z again!

Well it was a nabco and 11/16th, but maybe your right, I will go take a closer look. However, I will say this. When I installed the 72 slave on my car with this hose, and bled it, it did not leak at all. Not even a drop sans copper washer. Maybe the stack up is just better on the nabco's. OR maybe it would have started to leak later. But for the week it was installed, it did not leak. The Beck/Arnley leaked from the get go with just gravity. I can say that I do not think the hose I had was original. So may be hose was replaced a long time ago, and with it the copper washer was lost as well. Thanks very much for posting that image Arne.

So Arne, your saying that the washer (2) should go on the slave cylinder end versus the hose to hard line end? If so, your right, that is a terrible picture. The first picture says so.. interesting. My old setup did not have this to my knowledge. I bought a large pack of copper washers today.

I replaced the old hose with a new beck/arnley hose.. haha.. You would think they would be compatible. I am wondering if I can use a copper washer in between to make a seal. It is not that high pressure. I think that the B/A would have probably worked, but I think the tolerances are a bit off on mine. I would wager that they are not as controlled as an OEM part.

UPDATE: Courtesy lived up to their name and agreed to get me the right part or refund my money. VERY good customer service from David from courtesy. They are a class act in admitting a mistake and tried to do everything to make amends. Well I ordered that rockauto part, and low and behold, it came as a silver beck/arnley part (read cheap crap). Nothing at all like was pictured online...so you cannot always trust rock auto to send you the part pictured, they do cheat at times. I decided since the slave they sent me, although it looked and felt cheap as hell, I would install it. After all it did have a threaded pushrod ( 3/4" too long and the hemisphere that pushed was 2x as big as the OEM one), and an eyelet for the spring. I first noticed that when I installed it it sat crooked. The bolt spacing did not allow the slave to push at 90° to the clutch fork. IF that did not suck bad enough, the flexible rubber hose would not seat properly against the slave body....what do I mean by that.. lets me try to explain it.. look at the red plug in this picture on the nabco slave. If you look carefully around the red plug you can see a round recessed relief cut into it a few thousands deep. This is to provide a good sealing surface. The fitting on the rubber hose that screws into this is completely flat..the top left of this picture is the end that goes into the slave. The threads on that fitting go all the way down to a flat land where the hex nut is. It is one piece and is meant to sit flat against the machine piece on the slave. Well my beck/arnley slave has a recess MANY thousands deep and the flat on the rubber line fitting cannot come into contact with the sealing surface.. so it leaks. So now i have 2 slaves, that do not fit or are the wrong part, and I have to ship them both back... I am going to give courtesy a call today and see if they can let me know what part I would get if they sent me a 71 slave...

agreed, you better make sure he knows what is involved.. these are not Camaros,where you can drop a strut in like 10 minutes.

You guys and your 16" rims!!! You making me want some VERY badly!

I think your doing pretty darn well with your Z, keep it up. It is always great to see another Z on the road

Welcome, have you found one yet, do you know what your looking for? How much do you have to spend?

901 silver can look very tasty! And I am not really a fan of silver cars most of the time!

WOW!! That is blue!!! I mean BLUE

Good for you dude! Great news...keep it up. You will find that once the move around, the desire to work on them increases dramatically.

I am very glad you decided to stay as well boomboom. I often have paint and body questions, as I am more of a mechanic than a artist. The admins job is not one I would cherish. The standard of posts on this z site is the highest I have ever seen. They are just cautious to keep it that way. Welcome boomboom. I will probably be posting soon when I try to strip down and get my rear hatch resprayed.

THe rims are not my cup of tea, but I really do like your interior. That is very classy.

I would wager that you had a top mount battery from the beginning. It is an easy swap. You will need new positive and negative cables, which should not cost that much. You can get them from black dragon or MSA. The installation is easy, and if you take your time and replace one cable at a time - one fitting at a time, you will be just fine! IF you have any questions at all, just ask.

Will the factory battery hold down equipment work on an optima red top. I need something to hold my battery in place better than the plastic bin and a nylon strap the PO gave me.

yes, the 70, 71 and early 72 model years.

You sir are the man!!! I have the 72 FS Manual, and for 99% of the stuff I need it for its perfect... but this is one instance, the 71 is far better, thanks for putting that in this thread. You just improved the usefulness of this post by 100%