Zedyone_kenobi

UPDATE: Courtesy Nissan said they had a mistake on their website and offered to pay for me to ship my part back to them and they would get me a new one in 3-5 days from receiving it. That really will not work for me time wise, as I need my car to be ready by the 8th for a car show. I am going to try to ship it back and go for some store credit as I will be using them again. Mistakes happen, and I they handled it with class. In the mean time I used RockAuto to order the slave pictured above. I hope it is as pictured. Courtesy said they require me to send it back in the original packaging. I threw that away, so I hope they will still let me return it. I will get that installed and report back. By the way, there is no mention of how much slack there should be between the pushrod on the slave and the withdrawl lever (clutch fork, what have you). There is a certain distance you can push the withdrawl lever by hand until it stops...now what I do not know is when I actually bring the bearing into contact with the spinning clutch fingers that pull the assembly away form the clutch disk. My plan is to stay on the conservative side. I am going to reinstall the new slave and match the installation of the old one to the last thread. I will make sure some of easy to move travel is left before I push the pedal.

I love rock auto, there have a picture of the ACTUAL part you are buying, which in our world of subtle mid year changes is worth its weight in SU oil.

IF you run the K&N without horns, then I would bet you a shiny OEM waterpump that adding the horns gave you the HP, not the lack of filter Frank. I think you really need to look at 70 Cam Guy's picture as your solution. The Cda of an orifice (in your case the knife edge of your carbs) drastically influences the way air flows through it Just rounding off the edges a little makes a huge difference in the discharge coefficient, thus upping your air flow and HP respectively. I would find a way to run a filter AND your air horns, and you will get that wonderful feel ALL the time.

Check out my adventure with retrosound. I have their product and it is wondeful right now.. but I had an adventure getting it installed. Miles, I had the same issue, call them back and make them fix it. refer to the post below for details. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37020

So that sort of reaffirms what I thought that the slave I removed was the original one. Great bit of research LMCguffin! I have the clutch working now, I used my mityvac and bled the system thoroughly with much success. I sat back in the car and the pedal felt limp as heck right up until the last inch or so where it felt normal. Looking at the 72 FSM I got from Xenon on line it shows the exact slave I received. One thing of note. My 71 slave cylinder has a hole for the spring to attach cast into the body of the slave, which the one I got from Courtesy does not have. Meaning they sent me the wrong part. rock auto sells this part, which appears to be a Nabco sold under the beck/arnley name that not only has the ear tab for the spring, but has the proper pushrod, and it sells for about 20 bucks. While the courtesy part cost me over 50 with tax. DRAT.. I may have to order this one so I can have the proper slave as right now my spring is hooked to my bleeder screw. Meanwhile.... I crawled up underneath and noticed I could move the clutch arm with my hand about 1/2 inch until it got to hard to budge. I used the double lock nut on the pushrod and tightened it up to that point. Now my pedal feels like it has some good resistance and the clutch works fine. I just wonder if I have it adjusted too tight.

I have not checked the FSM yet, but is there a rule of thumb on how to adjust the hemisphere on the pushrod that engages the clutch arm? How much slack should there be? I have mine tightened down to the point where the clutch arm gets too hard to move by hand. I was just thinking that if I tighten it down too much I would be riding the throwout bearing the whole time.

I think the this larger diameter will be the ticket for me. I would really like more pedal travel in my clutch, I think the extra 1/16" of ID will help me out tremendously. The rod is threaded so I should be able to adjust it out accordingly. I plan on using the old threaded rod with the new slave.

not sure where to put this thread, and I apologize in advance for this going into a Z forum, but it seems that I have enjoyed getting to know so many people here, and what I have learned is that there are some VERY knowledgeable people here on topics that span more than Z cars. A good buddy of mine is thinking of getting a 73 TR6 as a project, and I wanted to know if anybody here has any advice on this particular car. Again, sorry to pollute the Z forums

I do not envy you my friend, but I can thank you for sharing your experiences. We can all benefit from the lessons learned.

UPDATE: I got up waay to early this morning and carefully got the slave and rubber hose off with it. Happy to report all fittings yeilded with no drama. When I laid the slave that came off the car (original to the car as far as my notes and receipts show) next to the one I purchased from courtesy, also an OEM unit, they were some interesting differences... Here is the picture: They are both NABCO units with Japan stamped in them. But the unit on the car has 11/16 stamped into it, and the replacement had 3/4. Making the logical jump that these are ID measurements, the replacement unit is slightly larger inside. This would mean more pedal travel and less pedal pressure from inside the car. I really do not mind this as my clutch as always been a bit particular. It always engaged in the first 1.5 inches of clutch pedal stroke. The last 7 inches really did not matter. So this larger volume may help get the pedal to use more of its stroke. also of note, I pulled the push rod from both of the units...this is curious.. the push rod on top is the one off the car and has a nice hemisphere on the end to push the clutch lever. The new shiny cad one was with the replacement unit. Obviously some part swapping will have to happen, as I do not think that replacement will work in its present state. More to come as it goes back together

I would wager you could do it yourself for quite a bit cheaper. There are many threads on here that discuss how to do the resto...give it a look maybe?

Jeff G that is what I found as well, good summary. IF I want to keep it original, I need to get that part. I may just install the slave now, and then order the MC so that it looks right. Rock auto was the only place in my research I found that shorty MC. Still good to know that the longer one was OEM for the later vehicles. I figured as much, as it is still listed as an OEM quality replacement.

UPDATE: Just checked autoanything.com they sell a brand called Nabtesco, think it is the new OEM approved vendor. Seems like it COULD be a new company formed from what use to be NABCO. Just a guess. I will check with courtesy to see what they offer. UPDATE2: The clutch master cylinder sold by Courtesy looks just like the one above. Rock auto had some shorty ones that would not require moving the fluid line that is just like the one currently installed. They are made by RHINOPAC, SACHS, and BECK/ARNLEY

Here are the pics of the replacement parts I have acquired. The new slave is from Courtesy Nissan, Its a Nabco It has 3/4 stamped on the side. My slave master cylinder on the car is a nabco as well, but I could not get a good picture showing it. My replacement slave master cylinder is a Sanyco: And the odd thing about it is that it is about 1.5 inches longer than the nabco installed on the car. It will run perilously close to water bottle for the windshield squirters. My question is the Sanyco and Nabco compatible. The MC is stamped 5/8, and the slave is stamped 3/4, so the MC seems to have a smaller volume which is good, as it will not overextend the slave. It does seem that the Nabco looks to be of higher quality than the Sanyco. Was the Sanyco unit an OEM part as well, where was it made?

I have done a car show and a parade lap or two at MSR in the Z, but since then I have had a good time with her at Grand sport speedway and she had her track day debut. Now I have to fix my clutch slave cylinder.. then its off to the aeros and autos car show on the 8th of may at Ellington Field.

If I may make a suggestion, I would recommend taking off the home depot lower add on spoiler. I think you have a nice factory lower valance on there. I think the black add on is not flattering. But that is just my opinion. All in all GREAT looking Z. Congrats! Look forward to hearing your impressions when you get the carbs fixed.

Just a quick update. I got my part from Courtesy in ONE DAY!!! Not sure how that is even possible, but I am happy to have it. It was a genuine Nissan part, number the box was: 30620-U7001 It Japan stamped on it, and another word, I will get a picture of it. I will also get a picture of the clutch master cylinder I may replace it with.

Thanks for asking our advice REDLINE. Here is my 'for reference' story. I paid 11,000 for my 1971 240Z. It had a documented 69,879 miles on it when I bought it. I was the 3rd owner and it was garaged since new. The interior was all original, with original gauges. The engine was stock and never been touched except for a pertronix unit and some ceramic MSA headers. It had panasports on it and tokico springs and struts. It drove well enough for a car who had not had a tune up in a long time. It was repainted 15 years ago in the original 901 silver, and it probably could use a respray today to 'freshen it up'. Was my car rust free, yes, all the usual places were rust free, but since then I have found some surface rust on the frame rails that I took care of. And I think I may need to look under my rear spoiler one of these years. so in my mind 11000 is too much for a 73, that is not original in any way. Originality was important to me. Did I pay too much? Maybe, maybe not. I certainly should not have paid more. I think 6.5 to 8k is a good price point if the car is mechanically solid.

wow ChrisS30, you got Inf to not like you. And he likes everybody. We are not here to indulge your fantasy world. How about showing us a picture of your 240Z, I would be willing to bet you do not even have one. You know what, don't, I do not want to encourage you. wait I just read your post all the way to the end. BWA HAHAHA...your doing a right hand swap, putting in an Rebello 3.1 stroker, or an RB26, and you want to go 200mph to freeway race. Why not an LS9 with Naaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwwzzzzzz. Do me a favor. Do not breed.

to be honest, I have free towing through my insurance 3 times year, and I really did not want to use my starter that hard. I have about 15-20 traffic lights between where I was and home, and it just seems too much to put it through.

great work, and good choice of product. Those vinyl wrap products are very durable and show very well.

he's gone guys, this is a kid whose day dreams have run unchecked for too long. He just named every cool part he has ever heard of and say, hey will this work, I need to run at 200mph because I loved the road warrior and want to be like mad maxx. he will not post again, because we did not buy into his little fantasy world. If your still reading this, Stay in school, get a degree, make some money, and then if reality still has not set in, and you still want to build your dream hot rod, come and see me with your checkbook, I have a bridge I want to sell you.

I intend to keep the car for a VERY long time, unless you know a buy with a 1973 Porsche 911 RS that wants to trade! hahaha I already ordered a brand new slave cylinder from Courtesy Nissan. I already have the rubber hose and the master cylinder. So I am ready to do a whole rebuild. I need to get pictures of the area. Today before work I ran my hand down and around the rubber hose, and it was dry as a bone, no signs of leaks, I am almost positive the slave died now. The hose actually feels rather smooth and robust. Not dry or fragile at all. I will take a closer look when I get the car in the air.

SHe is beautiful.. good for you! Look forward to your tinkering with her in the future. When you have time, can you back her out and take a side shot? I am thinking of going to 16's one day. THanks!