Zedyone_kenobi

Took the Z to work today to show a buddy my new console refurb. Well I went to lunch, it was such a nice day, I ate outside and just admired my Z from my table. After leaving I starter her up and drove up the light to head back to work. The car would no go into gear hardly at all, then I pumped the clutch again and noticed it was VERY light almost no resistance. A thought ran into my head.. "OH No! Slave cylinder, get this thing off the road, NOW" I managed to semi force it into gear with what little pressure in the clutch I had left and got it to a nearby strip mall parking lot. From there I knew I was in stuck. THe pedal was completely soft, and upon inspection of my reservoir, I found it was totally dry. I pushed my gal into a nice parking slot and took notice of the large pool of brake fluid on the asphalt. Well from there it was all a Hagerty show of force. I called my road side assistance, and within an hour they were there with an impressive flat bed. They got her on the truck without so much as a nick, and got me home. So now to the question... I have a spare clutch master cylinder, and a spare clutch hose that goes from the firewall to the slave. My money is on the hose, as 39 year old rubber is seldom in great shape. I already called up Courtesy Nissan and ordered a new slave cylinder (which was WAAAY more expensive than black dragon, so I am wondering if theirs is OEM and black dragons is more Beck and Arnley type stuff). So should I do a complete rebuild of the system or just fix what broke? I am a big believer in if it is not broken do not fix it, but also, most of this stuff looks to be orignial equipment. My car just turned 70658 miles. So what do you guys say... do a whole replace or just the part that is bad?

Your options are vastly more abundant if you do not lower it. I cannot speak about the rears fitting. I have never tried to run an 8" wide rim, but with my 7" wide rims, I seem to have plenty of room.

probably not.. You can run mucho tire-o if you do not have the front OEM valances installed.

Hello neighbor, anybody with McQueen in his avatar is okay by me.

Love the fog lights in the ducts of your spook.. more pics please sir! Keep it up!

awesome color choice.. very nice buddy

I am not familiar with any of those kits, but I am familiar with engines. An engine designed to work with a turbo is a very different animal than a engine designed for Normally aspirated running. The turbo engine will have dished pistons, and very low compression. You usually cannot just bolt on a turbo kit to an engine with 9 or 10 to one compressoin.

great googly moogly, that is purdy.

Wow, what a time capsule...still 7000 is on the high side, but not unreasonable.

just wanted to add my praise for the silver sharpie. I did a console refresh with new leather boot and used the silver sharpie to redo my striping on the choke panel. Worked wonderfully. The pen is so easy to control and regulate how fast to go. Highly recommend it. I never even thought about doing the glove box.\ Note, I did notice that I installed my shift boot backwards! DOH! the stitching is facing forward instead of backwards... now it all has to come off again!

yup those are delrin, I may try those to see how they compare...for 14 bucks, why not.

Make sure you take detailed notes, and get a copy of the various wiring diagrams floating around. Your multimeter will be invaluable. Get a good one. Also be prepared to do a lot of cleaning. Sometimes problems that may seem big are just contamination on a terminal. Clean every terminal you touch.

SUCCESS.. finished my install today with the poly bushings. Shifter feels more solid and stops like a bolt action rifle. I also refinished my console and all that is left is to find a silver sharpie so I can go over my trim to brighten it up.

gnose, when you say silicone, do you mean like a spray lubricant? My doors are hard to close, and I really do not think it is the striker anymore.

Bravo! It was like watching my first child being born. You sir have some serious DRIVE! If I may ask how did you paint your engine compartment? What did you use? THe match is uncanny good. I have a few spots I would like to spray, but I am worried it will look like a bad patch job. Very nice work.

Wow, that is just stunning.. but 1085 dollars, I can put this off, even though it does not sound out of reason.

I hear ya, I just need a picture of what nylon sleeve we are talking about. I have looked at my door and my latch plate and do not recall seeing a sleeve...I am on travel now, so I cannot go right back outside.

is there a picture of this boot sleeve thing. I may want to try this fix. My door clicks into the first detent easily. But takes quite a bit more force to get it to shut all the way. Before I start grinding anything, I will explore a new striker plate. But if none are available I may give this a try. What a great thread... I just got lucky and found it..

This is aweseme. I cannot make it unless I can swing a boondoggle at work, but I expect pictures fellahs!!!!

True, but you can say that about 95% of the cars sold at Barrett Jackson. You see fully restomodded 50's and 60s cars and musclecars, with probably 100 tp 125 thousand dollars in the resto, and they sell for 55k. It is normal to lose your shirt on reselling a hotrod. If you recoup half of what you put into them, its pretty darn good.

UPDATE: For All you type A tranny folks, I think we have a solution to firm up our shifters. I was looking through some spare parts, and noticed my front sway bar end link poly bushings are very close to the same size as the shifter bushings.. I took some measurements and the OEM bushings on the left are darn near the exact same size as the end link bushings. The outer diameter of the OEM bushing is 0.005-0.008" larger than the poly end link bushing on the right. Which is good. Just to be sure I did a test fit into the cylinder that holds the shifter bushings on our Type A linkage. It is an interference fit, just like it needs to be with the poly bushings. So far so good. Next job is to carefully drill out the ID of the poly bushings so it can fit over the shifter. I will put which drill bit to use to do this when I get it right. Then it is just a matter of installing the bushings. The overall height of the poly bushings is a little less than the OEM ones, but I am hoping that the fit will be so tight that it will not matter. If it will not work, I will take a small slice off the rubber bushings as s spacer, and presto... Type A poly shifter bushing kit with MINIMAL work.

I think that is a relatively good price as well. It has several things that typically are not what most barrett jackson buyers want. They usually want a first gen of a model... so definitely a 240Z would bring the bigger bucks They love originality. If the car has been original even with the big bumpers, it would have brought more They love survivors. A rebuilt engine and totally modified bodywork is a sign that at one time things may have gone amiss They are not so big on restomods. Which is what this really is. You have to find that one buyer who loves your vision of the Z as much as you did. All in all, I think this bodes VERY well for the collectibility of the Z's.

you know Arne, I think you may be onto something. I have some extra poly end link bushings from my front sway bar install.. those are relatively the same size. I will let you know.

I am trying to get a better feel in my shifter. I have pulled my center console to try to clean it up and maybe put some paint on it and refresh the chrome strip with a sharpie as has been documented. What I was wondering is if there is a harder rubber alternative to the stock rubber shifter bushings? I would like to make the shifter feel a bit more solid. I have looked at some of the usual Z parts places and with no luck. Does anybody make a kit for this? Thanks