Zedyone_kenobi

I would have to measure. What you do is calculate how many square feet you have and go to the UCoatIt website. You input your square feet and they calculate how much product you need exactly, and size your order accordingly. And I can vouch they hit it VERY close, and give you a tad extra so you can give it a good thick coat. I forget how many square feet I input. But I have a big 3 car garage.

You bring up a good point, thats why I want to use vinyl. Its easy to get off if I have to. But I do not see myself moving anytime soon. Just bought the darn house!!!

Sure.. Its a 3 car garage, 2 wide and one side is 2 deep. I think the Ucoatit kit I got had the prep, base coat, and I got the gloss coat. I think the total was a tad over 500 bucks. But the results are wonderful. I would recommend spending the time and money on doing an epoxy coat on your floor rather than paint. Clean up is amazingly easy. Not a drop of anything gets through the floor covering. Its fantastic. It also feels softer on your feet than concrete. Which is a great bonus when your on your back for a while.

I am very proud of my UCOATIT garage floor...and my garage in general. But I would like to take it up a notch to make it more showroom and give it that finished look. What I am wanting to do is put a large Datsun or 240Z decal on the floor in vinyl. Where can I get an accurate graphic of one or both of these that I can get blow up to about 2 ft x 4 ft

My gosh those look beautiful! Love the dark color. I may have to sell my panasports.

NOpe, I have 4 years to get ready...Judging by the amount of money and time I can throw at this, I think it will take me 4 years to save the coin to do this.

Thats actually a great idea. If I plan to race, it may be a better solution than hacking up my car. But if I only want to do the touring, then I would most definitely take my Z up there!

Mr Mortensen your correct. The neck down is a very high stress riser. When the bolt is torqued, the necked down portion is already preloaded in tension. When the Tension rod moves up and down, it compresses the bushing with the large washer. The washer acts against the hard rubber and I could see how that could produce a cantilever and put the beam in bending. Sounds like a first year machine design problem... now I am getting excited!

I read that, and I am not too worried about it. For ever report that they snapped, there were just as many that said they had been running them for years. I think that the extra load probably had something to do with it, but I would wager that a TC rod would have to be already flawed to break. A minimum strength for steel I found was 1018 annealed steel, with a yield strength of 32000 psi (just looking at the first reference I had). If the rod would fail due to tension we can use this number. Figure the rod is 3/4" round along its length, it would take around 24000 lbs. I would need to see where they are failing and what the grain structure at the crack initiation site looks like to see the mode of failure. If it failed at the neck down to the threads or near the bolt holes that hold it to the control arm, that would mean a totally different loading environment and I would need to look at that differently. Also the amount of suspension travel would heavily influence the result as well, as it would indicate the size of the fully reversing load (fatigue perhaps). It would also be nice to know what it was actually made of, its heat treat specification etc. I think the failures are real, but I think the super hard bushings aggravated an existing condition that led to these failures, rather than them being the root cause.

I think every car in the entire world has those rims on thim in the 80's, we called them sawblades.

I recently installed the poly tension rod bushings, which proved to be an interesting install. Not hard, once I figured out the trick, but thought I would take 5 minutes to document the steps I took. Keep in mind this is only for the black dragon poly bushing kit. 1) jack up and support car with jackstands 2) remove the front wheels 3) remove the nut holding the tension rod to the chassis (17mm) 4) Remove the two nuts/bolts holding the tension rod to the front control arm (14mm) 5) Slide the tension rod out and clean the nuts, bolts and all threads (I used a wire wheel and dremel) 6) Apply generous amount of grease on the bushings, large washers and inner metal guide provided with the kit 7) Take floor jack and jack up the control arm (keeping the floor jack 90 degrees to the cars body) to near level (IMPORTANT STEP). This allows you to install the tension rod and bushings and still have enough threads sticking through to start the nut. If you do not jack up the control arm starting the 17mm nut on the end of the Tension Rod maybe impossible. Just start the nut, but to not torque it yet 8) Install the two bolts that attach the tension rod to the control arm. This may take some reconfiguring as the floor jack may have pulled the control arm forward or backward a little depending on the angle of the floor jack to the body of the car. You can use a screwdriver in one bolt hole to align the other though. 9) Torque the nuts that connect the tension rod to the control arm to 40 ft-lbs (I forget the exact value but I recall 40 ft-lbs is sufficient for both the tension rod to control arm bolts AND the tension rod to chassis nut) 10) Torque the nut from the tension rod to the chassis to 40 ft-lbs 11) Lower the floor jack, install the tires and lower the car.

Ah, the 250 GT SWB Thats love right there.. sigh.....

My brother and I are big motorheads. We always have been. We dabble in autocross, and I have a few track days planned just to have a blast. We both fell in love with Targa rallies in New Zealand and Australia. What we have planned to do is take my Z to the Targa Newfoundland (the closest one I think to us) and to participate. We will do this on my 40th birthday as a present to myself. We are thinking we will codrive my Z. There are two classes, one which actually races for the win, and the other just runs all the same roads, but a set speed behind a pace car. Now with cars like old GT40's and Porsche 911 GT3 RS's running, my little Z has little to no chance to win, but the paced laps with all the vintage Ferraris may be a great way to spend a week. Since I am not going for all out race victories, I think the modification list to my car should be minimal. But I wanted to ask. Has anyone done anything like this with a Z and if so, how extensive was the modifications? What spares should I bring? Just curious. I have 4 years to save up and plan for this, but I am committed to the idea.

I just think it fits the personality of the Z. I would go 112

I will see if I can. Need to find a way to get away from my desk!!

Sure do. I had Grundy at first, but Hagerty has less restrictions on when and where you can drive and they have a fairly decent towing option at various prices. I find them far more reasonable than Grundy, prices are better, and you can still come to an agreed to price in the event of the loss of vehicle. I was able to name my own price of 18000 for my Z. Naturally the more you insure it for the more it costs, but we are talking a couple hundred for the year. Your price may vary. Its hard to say how good they really are as I have never needed them. Thats the real proof, but the policies offered are better as far as I could tell.

its on page 18 and has a 1970 240Z price range at 8900 - 36400 dollars. There is also a pic of a 70 240Z that is silver with a black top and a thin red paint stripe on it. Very nice. You guys should check it out.

does anybody need one of these. Apparently when I was put on the waiting list for one of these for MSA, it meant that the second they get one they do not email me, the send it and bill me. Well as you all know my front end conversion is done, and I no longer need a genuine nissan lower left front valance. Does anybody need this. I will post pictures later, but this is a brand new nissan part painted black. Just make me any offer.

Wow, just want to think that 165 mph sounds 'optimistic'

I have tokico shocks and springs (non adjustable shocks, not illuminas) and I am very happy with the ride quality and height. Its soft enough to be an enjoyable cruise around town, yet is very responsive to all steering inputs. I still need to push it hard on some kind of performance driving environment (autocross, track day) to see its real limits, but right now the short card in my car is the ancient Yoko A509's.

Let me ask you guys something. I have loved the looks of these mirrors and toyed with getting a set. However, it became apparent to me that anytime you lean over to work on your car, this mirror will be poking you in the belly each and every time. You run the risk of bending the sheet metal and severely limiting your access to the engine. How do you get around it.

I agree, do not underestimate the value of these cars. Most people know that swapping a desirable 4spd or 5spd is easy and well worth it when the body in such great shape. I was at a Z show here in Texas and when asked how much I would take for my car, I joking said not a dime less than 15000. He took out a checkbook and said, "who do I make it out to". I had to do some serious back talking as my car is not for sale. The gentlemen looked a tad 'put out'. But to get that kind of response was encouraging that keeping my baby mostly stock and caring for it may have been the right choice. I am not sure how much it would take to get me to part with my car. Never really considered it for sale.

I just spent 30 minutes installing my Headlight Harness I promptly received from Mr. Zs. Even though its been said before, I want to say what an out standing product this was. To make something seamlessly integrate into a 37 year old car is nothing short of amazing. This product surpassed my expectations and I could easily see it lasting another 37 years. Every detail about this product shows the time and dedication of the maker. I have done electrical work on cars and its painfully obvious when something was rushed. I cannot even imagine how many hours these things take to make but again. Its a part you can be proud of. THe instructions were complete, and self explanatory. The harness fit as described. Results. I was only purchasing this harness as I wanted to install some H4 style bulbs. Not some 100 watt madness, just something to help me see a tad better at night. I have not installed my new headlights, but initial impressions are that the cars lights are significantly brighter. But thats only half the story. If that is all this harness did, I would be happy. But I can honestly say, that my interior lights are 3x brighter. I am floored. I can see them light up in the day time. Needless to say I am happy! Great product, great results.

on yeah, on a normally aspirated engine, the Head is WHERE you make most of you HP. Combined with a CAM, you can totally change the personality of your car. But we would need to know which head, and your budget and on what car and your goals.