Zedyone_kenobi

I will try to take some pictures of them tomorrow morning and upload them ASAP.

I can post some pictures of them. I have them in a big ziplock baggie. I have no idea of the condition, only that it has the snake on them and fit my slotted mags taking up floorspace in my garage.

If they are shelby mags, I have some centercaps for it.

YOu sir are a class act to go through that much trouble. But your right, I do not have the skills to fix that, and I would rather wait until I find a rust/crack free pair instead of paying somebody to fix that. THanks so much for your efforts, I thank you again.

I would buy one, but I prefer it to be a little less NASCAR'ish. Less SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY!!!!! And more reserved but sophisticated. I was almost ready to get some of my drawings silk screened.

copy that, you confirmed my suspensions

I have a set of 14x6's I need to get rid of...

I was replacing my rear inner control arm bushings this past weekend. When I jacked up the car and dropped the control arms, the spring fell free from the perch and sat in the lower strut spring base (could move about a half inch up and down freely. I am not too worried about this condition, but I was wondering if the spring should sit on some rubber cushions or something. Is the upper mount rubber? I know the bottom is metal base to spring coil. Just curious. I checked the Black dragon site as they have a nice schematic of the rear suspension. I did not see anything for the springs to sit on. Just a curiosity.

UPDATE: With the new inner rear control arm bushings, my faint clunk is still there. Which makes me think its still either in the diff or the tranny. I am running out of mounts to replace! haha Next up is the engine mounts. I am not sure they are actually bad, but I figure I may as well do a refresh of them while I am at it. I think I can knock them out quickly. I just hope I can jack up the engine far enough without unbolting everything.

THanks!

hmm, not sure, but I had a turbo style muffler with my 2.5" all the way back and my MSA header, and it was louder than my ANSA with a resonator at cruise. But at full open the ANSA just wails like an old Ferrari

I think that he is pricing it pretty optimistically, but not that much. If the inside is perfect, and the underside is perfect, then I could see him getting 15000 for this example if its all this clean. Although the gold paint does make me wonder where else shortcuts have been taken. AS the years roll on, the price of the 70-73 Z's will pick up. The 73's may be hampered by the carbs a little, but I see no reason why the 72 would not start picking up speed eventually.

What is a Zapp Z?

I would like to see how they clean up in your booth if its not too much trouble. I have a bead on some other left and right parts now that may clean up as well. I am considering buying both sets just to ensure I can get the best possible parts for my car.

Lets see these pictures. I am circling some piece parts right now and hopefully can come up with some good ones. I think I have a center valance identified, but still need to find dent free left and right ones. Please post up some pics. Yes, i would be willing to trade my front air dam for some good left and right parts

Was the cam properly installed... meaning was its installed point in the advanced or retarded condition? Also, what happens at 4k. Does it sputter, or just fade off, does it surge?

I am in the surrounding Houston Area near clear lake texas

Do you have any pics of this modification Mr. Duff

I am having a heck of a time finding these parts. I thought I had a bite from Hybridz.org but they have not panned out. Does anybody else have these three parts in sandable/paintable condition.

I just went to hybridz and sent him a PM.

Absolutely not. Do not overestimate how much air you actually need for a mostly stock Z car. I am currently running an MSA header with a 2.5" outlet, that stays 2.5" all the way until the rear suspension, then necks down to 2.0" so it can go to my ANSA. I can promise you, I would not pick up any power at all from replacing my 3 feet of 2.0" pipe with 2.5" pipe. By the time the gas reaches the rear of the car, the gas has cooled significantly, and thus has a lower volume given the same mass than when it comes out of the cylinder. So going to a smaller tubing toward the rear of the car would probably actually help keep the velocity of the gas up without effecting back pressure.

true, but still worth it, as I figured there are quite a few 16" rims on this website. I am thinking of ordering some and just storing them

For those who do not know the RE-01 was one of the best autocross tires you could possibly buy a year ago. It had grip in both the wet and dry and was in all ways amazing. They are closing them out. Get these while you can! This is a genuine smoking deal http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Bridgestone&model=Potenza+RE-01R

SUCCESS~!!! yesterday I swapped out my amp/fuel gauge with my spare and joy of joys, it performed flawlessly. My amp needle responds to all inputs form the lights, the horn, etc, and rests beautifully in the middle when off. Also, my glass had come unglued on my old gauge, and now its well adhered to the bezel. So my needles can move uninhibited. My fuel gauge has never worked this well. I love it when things just work. And I am very happy to report, that upon inspection, not a single wire was butchered under my dash... and I left it that way. I used all the factory connections and managed not a single splice. Now I am going to send my clock to www.zclocks.com for refurbishment and I will have a full compliment of functional gauges! Pics to come soon.

I think I have found the correct torques: Somebody please check me as the part descriptions give me a headache! Transverse Link inner bolt (read 23mm end cap bolts) 101 - 116 ft lbs Rear link mount bracket (I think this the two small caps in the rear) 23.1 - 31.1 ft lbs Front Diff mount member installation bolt (????) 23.1 - 31.1 ft lbs Front Diff mount member and diff mount insulator installation nut 23.1 - 31.1 ft lbs Gear carrier and diff mount front insulator installation nut 43.4 to 57.8 ft lbs Those last three have me puzzled. If I had to guess. Torque the big 23mm bolts to 101 - 116 torque the differential cross member bolts (4 of them that hold the bushings) to 23.1 to 31.1 torque the small brackets in the rear that hold the bushing to 23.1 to 31.1 Torque the nut that holds the diff isolator to 43.4 to 57.8 IF thats right, then they really need to work on their wording! hahaha