Zedyone_kenobi

correct, the other 7 were for my days playing with Camaros and trans ams. I will do the compression check sometime soon. TR260Z, we could have a compression check day.. PM me and we can make plans!

Got it so I would need that as well... this is looking more like a junk yard salvage job now.

Yeah, MSA is asking 138 per side and 171 for the center. I would actually pay that for perfect unmolested body panels. Question though. I can see how the sides would attach, and I can guess that the center just attaches between the two, but does it attach anywhere else. How can it be strong enough to hold on a 'spook' type air dam if its just attached to the sides!!!

THanks Arne! I was configuring a way to hold those things open, but it looks like just pulling bowls would be easier. As usual...great advice.

Hello all! I rarely post in the body work section as so far I have not had anything more serious than a dab of underbody rust that POR-15 took care of. So I have been thinking of removing my front air dam and going back to the stock front end with a Spook air dam (BRE style). I know there are many places to get one of these, but what I do not have is all the body work underneath my bumper like the side pieces and front center valence connecting them. They are just not there, as my air dam was installed when purchased new according to the paperwork and bill of sale. Here is my current config. Where can I find those front three pieces of bodywork if I decide to go this route? As MSA and Black Dragon do not sell them. Any bites? Junk yard maybe?

I have been meaning to check the compression of my 240. I have no reason to expect its anything but perfect, but I am an engineer, and I like to know. Lets see.. standard way to check compression on a small block chevy dictates you unscrew the spark plug, you screw in the compression check. Unplug the coil from the distributor, hold the throttle wide open and crank her about 4 over. Read said gage and repeat 7 more times. Now with the SU's, you cant really hold open the piston's, so how do you do a proper compression check?

When you say air horns, do you mean flaring out at the end?

Let me translate that into Zedyone world for you lucky fellahs. ME - "Honey, I want to buy a new light bulb for the Z" Beautiful wife - "My gosh, every week its something, you never stop spending money on that car!" ME - "But honey its only $4.58 and I sold platelets to get it" Beautiful wife - "You know you have a new baby, how much more is this Z going to cost us" ME - "I dont know, I am just making it perfect a little at a time" Beautiful wife - "Okay, but this is the last thing this year, we have house projects to complete" ME - "Its only January!" Beautiful wife - "You can buy something after we finish the back yard, the closet, and the outdoor kitchen" HAHAA.. welcome to my life. Its really not that bad, but she keeps me in check. If she did not, I would be dumping money by the truckloads into my Z. And most of the time its on stuff, I did not really need... She is good to curb my enthusiasm. Zedyone = Impulse Shopper!!!!!

If he has the flat top carbs I have an E46 manifold with two SU's on it that he can pick up. I will give him a recession price on them...All SU's must go!!!!

Its hard for me to recreate the clunk. I can drive it all day and not hear it. But then every once in a while I hear it again. I am going to do the diseazd suggestion soon.

That looks really good. I have never been a fan of the slots, but my gosh, they look the business on your car. Also, your making me think of putting my rear over bumper bar on...

When it arrives at your house, it will be all worth it buddy!

careful man, dont tempt fate!!!!!

Hey buddy, where in texas are you located? I am facing similar issues as you. Although my 240Z was zippy in comparison with a 0-60 in 7.9 seconds 37 years ago, its still not 'fast' by todays standards.. but every time I think of dropping coin into a cam and head work, I start to look at those 69985 miles my car has been driven and think, can I really do this to a survivor like this. I dont know. I have never been a purist, I like restomods, and pro touring muscle cars, etc. But for some reason the Z in its pure form offers me so much fun. Remember the driving experience is more than mashing your foot in a straight line. There will always be somebody faster than you. At the end of the day the guy who enjoys driving the most wins. Not the guy who trips the lights faster.

Like any 37 year old car she has her issues, but that is part of her charm...every day a little better...one part at a time.

does not really matter, I want it for looks mostly, all I ever really want to hear is the ANSA on my car. THe radio is just for looks.

On that subject, I would LOVE To find an original 71 radio for my car. My JVC unit installed by the PO is poo poo.

I am glad they are not on there... HATE those things... in fact it was one of the requirements when I was looking for my Z.

This was my car the day I purchased it...with stripes.. yes I know they are in the wrong place...PO did this. Now here my car. It really depends on what you like.

THanks very much, I will give him a try!

I have not found a way to mount the front plate without bending it all to heck...When I mount it, it scrapes the front air dam. I am going to have to find a way to do that eventually. I never run front plates on my cars. I have been that way for 6 years, and only have been caught once. Got a fix it ticket. I guess I will take my chances until I get it mounted. I am in the Kemah area

I currenty have a rather dingy stock dizzy with the pertornix unit installed on my stock L24 (1971 Z)... but was wanting a more aggressive timing advance. I read that the euro dizzy has just that. Now, has anybody used one of these, and is the curve that much different? Also, can my current pertronix fit into the euro dizzy?

Its funny you mention that. I have a complete set of stock lenses. I was thinking of trying all the originals on there. It gives a splash of color to an otherwise monotone look. Thanks for the compliments folks. She is still getting her refresh. Next step is motor mounts and inner rear control arm bushings.

Car runs so well. I just need to work up the energy to pull the amp and tach to replace. I have ones still in the box that would snaz up the interior...