Zedyone_kenobi

Well,I know what I am doing tonight... Thanks gents!

how much do you figure I could get for my oil cap!!!

Thanks for the correction, Arne. I just spun it around and counted...its 3.XX:1 something. But I will make note tonight and do it correctly!

I was cleaning off my diff I received from the Z store, and noticed that it had NO markings on the bottom of the diff. My stock Diff has two numbers cast into the bottom. One is T25, the other is something else, I need to go back and look. The light was bad. The new diff does not have any stampings cast into it. Its just a curiosity, but I would hate it if my R180 is different from this R180. The gear ratio is about 3.5:1 ish. So thats correct for a 71 240Z 4spd car. If somebody has time, take a look at the bottom of your 240Z Diff and let me know if it has any stampings? I need a Z part interchange manual.

no words are good enough

THey are not TURNING backwards, They move LATERALLY, straight back toward the back of the car. Again, it does come down to taking it into a shop that will do more than sit back and wiggle things like I have done. Its time to let a professional take a look. I will post to let everybody know what I found.

You would not be insulting! You would speaking a great deal of truth. I replaced a ring and pinion in a Chevy 10 bolt once, and I completely did not enjoy that. As it took many tries to get mesh patter just in the right place. And it still whined when I was done. That was 15 years ago. I sort of swore off diff work since then. I would never try to do any work inside my diff. I was under the impression I could replace the seals going out to the half shafts from the outside. I have never worked on an R180, this is true. I suppose I should just tear into my spare sitting on my bench before I bug the people here. I wish I could come to the same conclusion on the condition of my diff. But when I turn the drive shaft by hand, I can see the halfshafts move backward before they even try to turn. In the end, I need to do just what your saying. Take my car to a shop that specializes in Z's. Until then, I simply will not be able to diagnose this problem without randomly replacing parts, which can get expensive and time consuming.

If I pull the half shafts off the diff, can I take out and replace the bearings and seals with the diff still on the car. I have play in my bearings on both sides, and before I swap out the entire diff, I want to make sure its not something far more benign.

ooops!

If this has been posted before I am sorry.

I cant host them as they are not mine. I found them on my old Subaru forum, and when I saw the Datsun, I had to post here.

A friend in my former Subaru Club went to Rally Germany. Took these pictures. If you appreciate rallying, these old vintage cars are truely amazing to watch.

Good luck Zero! Thanks Poindexter!

well, vacuum lines are next on my list of things to finish, I replaced half of them already. I have a few more that need some attention.

Found my issue with a car that would not rev.. let me describe the symptoms, and maybe this solution will help others. My car no matter how smoothly or harshly I hit the throttle it would rev to about 4500-5500 and start to miss and sputter. Acceleration would stop entirely and the car would sputter around and the tach needle would oscillate up and down. Very disturbing. I thought it was timing at first so I adjusted that. I still may need to pull the distributor to see if the mechanical advance is gunked up. That was some good advice form a friend on these boards. I have not yet done that, but I did manage to find a spare distributor in my parts bin that came with my car. It was in used but very solid condition. Shaft was smooth and while it was gunked up in side, it had no shaft play, so this may be a good candidate for rebuild/cleaning. But I digress. The spare distributor had a new cap and rotor on it. I have long suspected the rotor was an issue. It was only worn on the edge of one side. So I quickly put it on and swapped out caps. My new cap had the benefit of brass terminals, which is far better than the traditional aluminum. Here is the rotor that came off the car. You can see that one side is visibly more 'chewed up' than the other. In real life its far more pronounced, here is a better view, Here is the rotor that went with it: Once I installed these and hooked it back up, I was amazed at the difference it made. The car was smooth at 3k, 4k, 5k, and 6k. I did not rev it much past that and hold it, but it pulled once form 1st clean to 6500 rpm with NO fuss, mess or issues. I still think there is some timing work in there, but my gosh, it runs so smoothly. I should have done this swap earlier. I installed a new vacuum advance, reset the timing, adjusted the valves, and all along it was the cap and rotor. Guess it had reached the end of its serviceable life. If that gap grows too big, no amount of spark will get it to rev. 240ZED is a revving machine now.

wow, looks fantastic! I really love the cars in this state. To see one come back from this would be astonishing and fun to watch!

^^^^ what he said!^^^^ by the way WELCOME to the sight? Have any pictures of your baby?

There is a great website with bulletproof step by step pictures and explanations on how to adjust valves. If you do a search on this website you can find it.. lets see.. http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/1803105 That should be of some use mikewags!

I hate to admit it, but your words ring true. Actually I dont hate to admit it, but now it leaves me with more head scratching to do. I am going to keep the R180 I have on order coming and use it for comparison. I may even get it professionally rebuilt so I have a known good part. That is one job, I do not wish to tackle by myself. Just note for clarification, I do not feel slop when I turn my halfshafts. I feel slop when I push on them radially, as in up toward the bottom of the car.

Hey peace buddy, I agree. Every system can be improved, but the stock system has been working on my car for 37 years. Something to be said for that. If you want better cooling get a larger radiator, cheap, easy install, and dead reliable. Again, with a engine rebuild, you cannot stress enough protection or reliability. Also, with your electric system, should you decide to go that route. It has its own set of problems. It has a constant draw from the battery, and does put a stress on the electrical system. Older 240's charging systems to not like too many more amps than stock. So be mindful that you may want to upgrade to a later model alternator (60amp maybe). If for whatever reason you lose power to the pump, your stranded. A mechanical pump is fairly reliable, and was designed to go there. In the end its your decision, but if it were my money, I would spend it elsewhere.

I know you were poking fun, but I was pointing out that your decimal is in the wrong place in the mm part of the equation. I think sometimes threads do not convey good messages!

I totally agree with you on the timing. I pulled off the pertronix unit and hit a wall, where I got a little nervous as to how to continue. So I stopped. However with what you mention in mind, will pull her out and see how she looks all the way down to the distributor chassis. Need to find a how too guide to tearing down a distributor. Time to use the search button again. As for the diff, I have checked the usual suspects. Front diff mount is good, mustache bar bushings appear in good shape, drive shaft bolts are tight, ujoints show no slop. The stub axles are an issue. If I grab the axle on either side of the diff and push on it in the radial direction (normal to the central axis of the axle) It moves enough to feel and hear. I am pretty sure this is bad. Also if go from 1st to reverse, no matter how slowly I let off the gas, it had a definite thud to it. Now once underway, the diff is quite as a mouse. It does not whine or make a fuss of any kind. I certainly hope that I do not replace this one with a diff that is worse than mine!

keep in mind that it may be better to bring the entire short block to the machine shop so they can degree in the cam. It makes a huge difference to how effective your cam will be. I think you have your head on straight about just going Stage II and making a fun daily driver. You will be very happy with that set up!

actually, 0.012in = 0.3048mm again be careful!