Zedyone_kenobi

I do not know how the 73's compare to the 71's, but I used 0.10 Intake / 0.012 exhaust on my stock L24 (1971). If my valves were that lose I would have lots of noise as well. But again, I have a 71.

update. Valve adjustment has been complete on the engine and all valves needed a couple of thousands adjustment. Some were out several thousandths. The whole valve train is noticeable quieter. Cant speak of performance yet as I have not driven it yet. But thats coming as soon as this weather clears up. Ordered my Diff from Zbarn.com. Very nice talking to the guys there. After the diff is swapped out, I will turn my attention to some minor wiring fixes. I will also try to do a more thorough cleaning of the engine bay. Car is nearing mechanical happiness, so I am almost ready to spend many days cruising it around. It just goes to show you that no matter how good of condition your 37 year old car is, its still a 37 year old car!

Things like electric water pumps should not be relied on for HP increases. Your talking about minute HP that people chasing thousands of a second may do. I would wager this is not you. Never underestimate the quality of stock Datsun parts. Shiny parts in a catalog look good on paper, but seldom live up to the hype in actual returns. Use stock when you can, focus your efforts on parts that will make it run strongly and reliably. Build your engine for the driving you do every day. Trying to live day to day with a high strung motor that is only happy at 6k+ every day is not money well spent. Sacrifice some of that peak HP for strong daily reliability. This is of course unless your building a drag car. Then ignore my post entirely.

Well 3-4 k might be enough depending on his goals for the car. Perhaps he does not need larger valves if all he wants is a fun street car. With the cost of head work not trivial, perhaps you can use money else where to suit your needs. Again, it comes down to what your goals for the car are.

just wanted to thank everybody for their insight and opinions. I have decided to order a spare R180 from Roger at Zbarn. He picked up the phone and was helpful with my purchase. I am looking forward to installing my new diff when it comes in. Job looks tedious, but not hard.

I have left well enough alone for long enough. This happens to all car forums who are 99% dominated by men. One girl posts anything and she gets the spot light regardless of how meaningless the content actually is. She had a real problem, the gentlemen and ladies on this forum helped her out. That should have been the end, but now the leg-humpers come out and are in full force talking about boobs, and other non Z related things. Any 16 year old is more than willing to soak it up. I am pleased her Z is out of trouble, really I am. But the rest of this thread content is 404 not found. (HA, hows that for some modern techy lingo, my inner nerd came out) It should really be locked, OR, I could just keep my nose out of it. Which would have worked just as well I suppose.

good luck with your Z. Usually HOA are more bark than bite.

Okay perhaps the lazy comment as a bit overboard, but my personal goal to stand against and end txt lingo is never going to end. As far as I know there are no letter limits on posts, so use all the keys. In my mind every time we allow txt speak to exist it becomes one small step toward it being publicly acceptable, and it should never be. But having said that, for the sake of this board, which I truly enjoy and have learned so much from, I will not dive into pointless arguments if I can help it. Its a remnant of my past board experiences I suppose. I am far from a grammar nazi, Lord knows I have a hard enough time spelling things. But, txt speak is not bad grammar, its a testament to laziness that is irritating to read. LIKE WRITING IN ALL CAPS. Not hard to understand, nor confusing, just irritating. But this is me getting off my soapbox.

Riiiiiiiight. I will remember that. :stupid: So, its not that you do not know how to spell, your just lazy. Contrary to what you believe, the teenagers of today wont make any more of a splash on society than the teenagers of yesterday. Eventually you all outgrow your overgrown sense of self worth. Its part of growing up. Okay, enough bashing, but sorry, text lingo irritates me. So do cocky kids. Man I am starting to sound like my dad... DRAT, I need to go buy something I do not need and cannot afford.

you stud you.

I think any new Z will have to go back to what Mr K thought the Z should be. A Japanese sports car for the Americans. IT has to fit Americans and be sporty enough to survive on our roads. It should be capable of winning races out of the box and should be affordable. It does not have to be the fastest car in the world, but it should have miata levels of fun built into it. Most of all, it must be reliable. The Z was known for melding all the current technology together in a way that was fun to drive and seemless to the driver. My recipe for a modern 240Z would be the following: RWD of course 4 wheel disks with 4 channel ABS 6 speed manual gearbox (No DSG or CVT here) It needs a 6 cylinder for sure, but a straight 6 is not going to happen, as nissan does not have one available to my knowledge. They do have a 2.5 liter 4 banger, that makes like 175 HP/180 ft lbs torque. That would do nicely if you can throw some Direct Injection on it and perhaps some of that variable valve timing. Make it rev to 6.5k to 7k, and let it have around 200 HP when all said and done. Its enough to make it crazy fun and not step on the 370Z's toes. It will also give room for growth in the future. This small engine will also provide good fuel economy and reliability. Plus nissan already has it. The car should be a 2+2, which I know makes people cringe, but you cannot market a pure two seater with much success thats not a convertible. I would give it rear suicide doors ala RX8. If Mazda can do it then Nissan can do it with the 250Z. This car should be a shining example of nissans new approach to building light weight cars. Make this car come in at 2700 lbs MAX, with the use of composites and Carbon Fiber its perfectly possible. Make it a drivers car. No power seats, no power sunroof, Make the drivers position and comfort pinnacle. It should have 17" rims, that are 7" wide. Any more its snappiness or steering feel may suffer. You want a stock tire size to be competitive in its class, and yet not too expensive that people will not be able to afford to replace. I would not have a turbo option, as it will become drift car fodder and it will be a poster car for the NOPI crowd, which is not the demographic I would want. The car should come in the mid to high 20's. The Nismo 250Z will may nip 30.

I have to ask how wise it is to tell somebody you don't know how to hotwire a Z. Especially somebody who can't spell or use proper grammar. Playing devils advocate, you may have just told somebody how to steal a Z.

Thanks, he has offered to sell me a diff at what I think is a VERY reasonable price. I may purchase it today, as its pretty hard to find people/vendors with such high praise.

This is good stuff. I am running the Bosch coil which I believe is sold through MSA or black dragon (or both, I don't know where I saw that). I have no idea if its a 1.5 ohm coil or a 3 ohm coil. I suppose I could disconnect everything and measure the resistance through the coil easy enough, that would tell me something. Okay, I have lots to work with here, I will check a few things out when I get home. I do most certainly have a resistor hooked up to one of the terminals on the coil, but I need to figure out what size. Its very simple. Is a wire from my coil to a resistor. It does not go anywhere else. I may need to snap a picture. More to follow.

is that the resistor connected to my coil? NOt sure Still its not a nagging concern to be honest. Car runs great. I don't often find myself revving it that hard, its just nice to know its operating correctly within spec.

Thank you Mike. I appreciate the fast response.

I am looking to pick up a replacement diff from one of these two parts websites. I have talked to both and they both seem knowledgeable and very nice. Does anybody have any experience with buying from these two vendors.

Drat, I told scotty to fix that!

I have a 1971 Z that has me plaguing the boards with this question and that, and to this boards credit, the amount I have learned is amazing. I recently got happy with the timing of my car in both base timing and max advance. On my test drive though the car does something particularly strange. At anything below 5500 to 6000 rpm the tach is dead steady. I mean new car steady. Very nice! However, when I rev it to this weird range the tach goes up smoothly and linearly. When it hits this band the needle swings back down to 3000 rpm and moves around strangely. The car still feels fine but acceleration seems to have slowed or leveled off. What would make it run flawlessly below this limit and then go electrically crazy above 5500 rpm.

You can save some money on rockers, as the stock ones were used by racing teams since the 70's. Your money is better spent on new stock replacements if you want peace of mind. 50mm carbs are borderline race only carbs and definitely race only on a 2.4 liter. Stick to the 40mm triples and you will be much happier even with your big cam. Make sure your radiator/starter/water pump are in great condition, as your increased compression, heat load, etc will take its toll. But before I can go farther, what are you plans for the car? Is it a track car. Daily driver. You need to know what its use will be. Keep in mind that the further you go from stock, the less reliable it will be. If you don't mind wrenching on it on a regular basis, then you can go more all out. But if you want to drive it regularly, then I would be cautious, to build such a high end screamer. Be honest with yourself, and you will end up much happier. Also, how are the rest of the mechanicals. Diff in good shape, half shafts okay. How are your brakes. Before you can go fast, you should probably be able to slow down.

I think I am in the same situation JoelH. I think I have excessive play in my R180. I have the clunk your refering to as well. I have checked my arrestor strap and my rear diff mount, and both seem in very good condition. My driveshaft has more rotation than I think a ring and pinion should have. I would like to get mine rebuilt, as it was original to the car, but at the same time getting a used one is FAR cheaper. We will see. I just need confirmation on my diagnosis. Once I get that, I can know how I want to move out. There is a good Z mechanic here in Houston, I may have to let him have a look.

Well first I want to thank those who responded with such great advice. I disconnected the vacuum advance and rechecked the timing. If you recall, with the vacuum advance connected I had 800 rpm 8 Degrees 2850 rpm 44 Degrees Now with the vacuum advance disconnected I had the following 800 rpm 8 Degrees 3000 rpm 22 Degrees So the vacuum advance was working overtime. Still I wanted to check out the inside of the dizzy to see what was going on with the weights down there to see if perhaps they had been tinkered with. I got as far as removing the pertronix plate. I never found the centrifical advance mechanism. There was another plate in there that I could have removed but did not. I need to look at a schematic before I tinker too much with that. However, I did find a wire form the pertronix, a little black one that attaches to the plate the pertronix is mated to that was disconnected. I attached it, and cleaned everything up inside. So really having done nothing but look at the pertronix hardware, nothing to it really, I put everything back together. I was leery of 44 degrees so loosened up the distributor and retarded the timing a tad. When I hooked up the timing light again to while the engine was running I had 5 Degrees advance at 750 rpm. Throwing caution to the wind, I hooked up the vacuum advance again and low and behold I managed 36 Degrees at 3000 rpm. Dumb luck, most likely. I have not driven it yet, but the way it starts and idles I am fine with. Very smooth and controlled. Next is the valve adjustment. Looking forward to that. Looks pretty easy actually according to that slideshow website floating around. Opinions. My next project after the timing is the rear end clunk. I am convinced that I have waaaay too much slop in my ring and pinion. I can rotate the drive shaft almost a half inch in each direction with the car in neutral. Not sure how to fix that other than tearing into the R180, may just try to find another one. Anybody have a 1971ish R180 laying around for sale!

Hopefully today my valve cover gasket will come in and I will be able to finish up the tune up. Question though, are there any advantages to doing a hot lash, vs a cold lash. I know the tolerances change a tad, but I would think the hot lash would be a little better in as far as accuracy goes. Just curious. Thanks. Also, what timing values on the low and high end should I be looking for w/o the Vacuum Advance hooked up ?

I just learned I should not have had my vacuum advance hooked up. Forgot about that, been so long since I had to set the timing. Also, to those who are wondering, I am running the pertronix ignition in the distributor.

Will you be selling these? Or are these just for you to let us know you have a sweet exhaust? I am interested in this.