Zedyone_kenobi

Well I am happy to report that after several months of my car being on jack stands I got to get her going and go for a very spirited drive. Well that was so lovely. I forgot how much I love that L28 and how good it feels up top. It also reminded me of several things that I wanted to do that I wrote down during my rally. First was my brakes, and the reason that I had the car up on jack stands. The cars new calipers and wheel cylinders are working fabulously, and I even took the time to put in some ATE super blue and bleed the master cylinder for kicks. I call that a victory. Car stops well enough for now. Pads are bedding in and things feel better each time I stop. Quickly during my drive I remember how crappy my throttle linkage feels. It was fine on the first part of the rally, but somewhere along the way it started to stick, holding at 1700 rpm at idle unless you blip the throttle many many times. But that is another thread. What I want to talk about is VALVE ADJUSTMENTS. Eiji recommends setting the valve lash cold. So I did that after I I had 500 miles on the engine before the rally. Then after the rally I checked the tolerances. They were all DEAD on. I was shocked. I figured they would have crept one direction or another. I am running 0.008/0.010 as everybody else is here. Now having said that. Ever since I have had this engine I thought the valve train was a bit noisy after she warmed up. When I first start up you cannot even hear the valve train. After she is fully warm at lower RPM you can hear it ticking/tapping away. I have gone over what this may be in my head. Forged pistons do not expand as much as cast. My old V8's had piston clap all day long as I ran forged pistons on them. Now my oil after 1000 miles was practically clean. My plugs were a lovely shade of light brown. It will idle all day long and not over heat. I am really NOT worried about the health of the engine, but if I can quiet the valve train down a bit, I would like that. I have read posts here about people running narrower gaps than 0.008/0.010". I am wondering if there is any comments on the validity of that. The gaps increase on engines when they get hot as the hot lash should be 0.010/0.012" if I recall. Anybody try to tighten the valve clearances?

Yes but lotus parts do not buddy! I second the BRZ advice. It is an exceptional handling car.

The while you are at its, is a dangerous thing. I started out just wanting to replace my heater slider cables. I ended up with a rebuilt z clock, new amp gauge, new retrosound radio, new bulbs in the dash, I fixed my antenna, and then bought speakers. Oh I did get that heater slider cable fixed as well.

THey look like a libra style rim, but how authentic they are I have no idea

My gosh that is just stunning buddy! GREAT work

loved that video, thanks, I watched it twice..

Electric Z's GET OFF MY LAWN!!!

I have a drop or two from mine as well. IF there is any gas left in the carb tube or venturi that leaks out into the flow path, it will find its way out of the carb unless the aux ventrui is sealed tight. The volume is so low I do not really worry about it. I just wipe out the drip tray/heat sheild out when I see some evaporated gas.

THe LS engines are an easy fit, but the true heart and soul of that Z is the L series engine. If you have to upgrade it, may I humbly suggest an L28. I dropped an L28 into my 240Z and part of me still sort of regrets it. I love the power of the L28, but one day I have plans to drop the L24 back into her, but with a VERY healthy rebuild. We will see. I may make the L24 rebuild a project for my son and I.

What you are decreasing is running torque. I always torque based on running torque plus specified torque. Dirty threads add resistance to bolt insertion. This resistance eats up some of the torque required to reach proper bolt stretch. Since we do not all measure bolts before and after to ensure proper stretch, getting the threads as free running as possible is important. Specified torques in books do not take into consideration galled threads, dirty threads, rusted fasteners, etc. So clean those threads, run thread correctors, and use antiseize liberally to get those running torqued down to as close to zero as you can.

Oh wow, I will miss him! Peace be with you brother...and your family

Oh man, I am just here for the responses...:paranoid: But I will say this. Cleanliness goes a LOOONG way.

That is one serious good looking Z buddy! Those wheels make it!

This is what I was going to do with mine. I like the 280Z fitment on this. But the electric fans are useful. I have never had any issues overheating of my car. I have never really seen the need for electric fans if your radiator and and OEM thermal clutch fan are working...

I paid 275 dollars jsut to ship an engine from dock to dock. Shipping from door to door gets far more expensive. I have no way to get the long block to a shipping center at this moment. So it will have to be door to door shipping would could cost as much as 450 dollar in itself. You are talking about a 300+ lb chunk of metal. Shipping an engine is not an inexpensive affair. So try to find one locally. My 71 engine will eventually go to somebody as well, but shipping is going to be a nightmare.

I have a complete perfect long block from my original 71 Z with 71000 original miles on it. It is sitting in my storage unit right now. But I have no idea how I would get it to you. Shipping would cost a fortune.

congrats!!! Great work

Um, that would be you. After you buy and watch the DVD sold by Welcome to ZTherapy.com seriously, they are not complicated at all, and knowing how to tune them and rebuild them is something every Z owner should know. I highly recommed their parts and service.

Oh my this is awesome! Alas, I will be waste deep with diapers and bottles, and will probably have to pass

I do not consider wheels when I say all original one owner car... but this is going to be curious... http://bringatrailer.com/2013/01/29/california-1972-datsun-240z/ It ticks all the right bells. One owner Original all receipts and records Unmolested Decent condition I wonder how high the bidding is going to get.

This scares me DEEPLY

Passenger side: Product SKU: 44100-R1000 Driver side: Product SKU: 44101-L1000 These are listed for 1970 to 06/1972 240Z

exactly before bashing the part, realize the first one lasted 42 years.... (as on my car) That is just incredible.

Dan I am way late to this discussion, but let me say do not get mired down in the details, your car is stunning! I know you are proud to have it, and you should be. Car shows are an anamoly to me. I have been disappointed many times at how the judging gets done. But my disappointment came from the fact that I had not taken the time to do more. I have learned that car shows are primarily about cleanliness. And in my county, it is pretty much the only thing that matters. My z would not score half of what your car did. I think you should keep posting pics of your car, as your engine is an inspiration to so many of us. Congrats and I am proud to be on the same car forum as you

My N42/N42 L28 is running about 10.3:1 according to my builder and I run 93 octane gas with 14 DEG BTDC @900 rpm and 32 DEG BTDC @ 3100 rpm. No pinging at all at this point. I am going to try 17 deg BTDC. You should be fine. There are many pumps you can use to run your SK's. Find out what kind of pressure they need though. You will most likely need a regulator, but some pumps are self regulated. I went through 3 pumps before I found a combination of pressure and noise I liked. Did the engine builder put the eccentric ring on the front of your cam? If so then you can probably get away with starting your car on a mechanical pump. I would also suggest you get a WIDE band O2 sensor to help you in tuning those carbs. Or esle you will be just relying on plugs to give you a good reading, and that can be misleading depending on your technique. good luck and keep up the great updates.