Zedyone_kenobi

That will certainly get you out of a jam! Great thinking When you put the engine back in, you may have to remove the front bumper to get the engine far back enough. I would remove it now to save yourself the trouble.

Well if I remember, don't the 18's have 2 progression holes and the 151's have three?

Well I put my bid in and it was quickly shot down FAST

I am so tempted to bid on these. I really really want these. But my gosh the price is crazy

My bad at 39 I got great googly moogly from the old man in the commercial who misspelled the Chiefs in an endzone on football field and painted Chefs. HAHA... My apologies!

What was that wooden thing in the console? that may as well be a bricklyn as much as it could be a Z.

I would also go down one size on your air corrector. It may help with the flat spot. well it worked for me!

Thanks so much, I knew their had to be something there. I will try to find some cork or foam or something to seal it up.

I was cleaning up the Z last night, and noticed my bulb in the passenger turning lamp under the bumper is just sort of flopping around in the hole. It looks like there should be a rubber grommet between the plastic bulb holder and the white light housing it fits into. Is this plastic on plastic, or is there a rubber grommet between the two to keep them tight. The fit is just terrible now, and I would like to get them back to stock.

No I use a screw driver! Not sure what you mean by that question? Am I missing something.

Very nice install! That 50F8 idle jet should really lean you out ! It was almost 2 points leaner than my 55F9 jets

Can I change out the venturies with the carbs still on the car? It looks like they just pull out.

Your right Arne, I know the BRE LeMans, are still the VTO wheels. Not sure how they change the offset with the various widths, but if the wheel is about a half inch tucked in due to the 6" SIZE, then I think that will clear...I just BARELY rubbed when I had 205/60/15, with 15x7

I will keep that in mind, and periodically check them. The car runs so much quieter now. All the clickty clack that probably hurts absolutely nothing, is muffled to a calm even noise of a smooth running valve train. I figure I will check it again after the 1000 mile rally in November. I took her out for a 50 mile blast to Galveston Texas. Car ran so perfectly smooth it was stunning. The sound of the exhaust hum is intoxicating, and the 'go anywhere' torque is just addictive as heck. Steady state cruise at 60 mph AFR is 13.5:1. I could not ask for a better summer AFR.

I would wager that if you took your time the letters would look fantastic. But you would need to find a tire with a thick raised lettering on the sidewall. Perhaps the Firestone Wide Oval, which is available in good 15" sizes still. From 5 feet away nobody is going to notice anything remotely not perfect. These are tires, not fine crystal. Even new tires have non perfect edges.

wow you are running 45's with 36mm chokes on a stockL24! Great googley Moogley!

Of course you must post pictures of you most attractive car!!!!! I just checked out your gallery, and WOW, what a nice paint job, I am definitely jealous. Mine is 15 years old. And I absolutely LOVE your ducted spoiler. I may have to get one. Arne told me to get a Ducted one, but I was stubborn! If I was a betting man, I would bet this is the look you are trying for... ask me how I know! ;) This is when I tried a BRE sticker LOLLOL

Just an update. Today after tweaking the timing I wanted to go for a drive, but the clouds opened up. So after the car cooled down completely I decided to take off the valve cover to see how the cam was doing. Well there were no discernible wear marks, so that is good. Eiji said I should check the valve lash after the first start up and 10 to 20 miles, and then again after it has about 1000 miles on it. Well I checked it stone cold and most of the valves were pretty lose. Which makes sense since I had a bit more valve noise than I was use to. Nothing really alarming, but more than my L24 had. So I set all of them to factory cold specs. Intake: 0.008" Exhaust: 0.010" I had two dedicated shims at those thicknesses, and two more no-go gages set at 0.009 for intake, and 0.011 for exhaust. I got all of them exactly spot on, which makes the OCD mechanic in me very happy. Some people hate even thinking of doing the valves. But I find it strangely therapeutic. Anyway, Still waiting to treat you guys to a video of the webers on the Datsun Spirit L28

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=398016 As you wish

205/60/15's are going to be iffy on lowered car with stock bodywork, I had that size, only on a 15x7 panasport, and it was rubbing on the front end. I also have tokiko springs and struts so our similarities are very close.. these are the LeMans style with 195/60/15, which are a great size tire for your car. I just upgraded to 205/55/15 which are not rubbing on my Tokiko lowered car. The reason I switched is I wanted a summer tire versus an all season. I got the S drives from Yokohama. I had not attached my BRE centercaps at this point. I actually think the LeMans look better without centercaps like the 71 Champion 240Z. They look meaner.

I simply cannot wait to read this... I may go out and buy it just to see how it compares. I have always thought that the FRS and BRZ was the spiritual successor to the 240Z The article is posted on an FRS forum and it has two glaring mistakes. First it said that Goertz designed the Z, I know that will inspire many letters, and second it said that the Z has a cable operated throttle. The writer did not take the time to look that it was push rod operated. IN summary, i can say this...they felt that the FRS was the dynamic equivalent to the 40 year old 240Z. They said that the two writers that drove the car could not remember which car they took into which corner. They were that close. They praised the feel and balance of the Z and felt that the FRS seems to emulate all the goodness of the Z 40 years later. There was one point where one write said they were pushing the FRS into the twisty Tennessee roads feeling the car communicate as he pushed it hard into every corner, and thinking how marvelous it was. But when he looked in his rear view mirrors the Z was right behind him with its 14" radials! HUZZAH Z !

Just an edit, in the pictures above, the tire on the left in each picture is not the direzza, but the Pole Position A960, which is a very good ultra high performance All season tire. I would recommend it to anybody looking for a good all around affordable tire with good performance characteristics. But immediately the feel of the summer tire is superior. Better grip and my but tell me the sidewalls seem to absorb bumps better.

I think the main culprit of it richening is the 30mm chokes. I am going to invest in some 32mm to see how they feel. I mentioned above about getting some of the Keith Franck E tubes, but for the money I think 32mm chokes are a better investment. The F11 Etube just seems to be a great fit to Lseries engines.

Just get the valve adjustment right and drive it more. Looks like a thin film of old oil just adhered to the cam lobes, and is slowly wiping off as you drive it. IF you got the lash correct, and it is not making any weird noises or popping out of the exhaust or intake as you drive it, just have fun.

When you jack up the car you will not be able to get the transmission bell housing out unless the body work is at least 15.5" off the ground. Even then it will be tight. So in order to get the tranny out, go with TALLjack stands.