Zedyone_kenobi

My most sincere thanks! Tonight was a tale of two stories. I set out tonight and told my lovely wife to expect some noise out of the garage tonight!! Well I finished installing the exhaust, tightened up all hangers, then wired up the dizzy, and went to wire up the O2 sensor. Well Murphy struck again. It would see that since I refused to cut a hole in my new shifter boot, I was left stuck looking for another 'orifice' to stick the ridiculously short O2 sensor through. You see in Innovative's eternal wisdom they decided to make the O2 sensor as big around as a quarter and the plug on the other end of the wires as big around as a shoebox (mild exaggeration). So I decided to cut all the wires and make a long jumper with bullet connectors for future removal. I also decide to run them through the old choke cable grommet on the firewall. As my luck is consistent, I ran completely out of my last connector. So now I am not making smoke and fire because of a dumb 2 dollar electrical connector. I only hope the O2 sensor is not calibrated for a certain length of wire. There is a calibration technique called out in the owners manual for the O2 sensor, so I may do that again.

Gosh I love the Gnose on that thing! Some day... GnoseZ, how was the fit of the MSA kit?

Blue, had the same issue, as well as the rod with the clevis being bent right out of the box. When I rolled it, it would wobble. Ended up ditching the OEM push pull Rod linkage (which I hated to do since it was so darn perfect feeling) and going with a cable. I did not throw any of my OEM stuff away though, as someday I will pick up another clevis rod and try the pushrods. I am still not thrilled about how the LOKAR cable feels. To me nothing is as precise as those rods that Datsun chose. When they are fresh and functioning perfectly, they are so sweet and positive feeling to the feet. Let me know how your shortened rod turns out as I always wanted to try that. I think it is the proper way to do things. Also let us know if your rod ends that screw into your manifold line up perfectly, mine are not, and if I use all three, I get binding in the rod and it is very hard to turn. Caused the throttle to not return to closed at times. I solved this by only using two rod ends, and using a hardended steel precision 5/16" driveshaft (mcmastercarr). Deflections are minimal and almost non existent.

The trick is to keep the lifting connection to the stud tight, and not just a chain on a bolt. Put large washers on the head side and keep the chain tightly wedged with another washer and nut. siteunseen, if you would like a set of OEM lifting loops to borrow you are welcome to my spare set.

Topby go to ebay motors and search for Universal Aluminum Fuel Rail they sell it in different lengths, finishes, sizes, etc. You will have to buy fittings, hoses, and many drills and taps, but if you take your time, it is super easy to make one. Plan fit and then cut.

And the heavens brought down upon us a collector pipe laden with Jet Hot, And Zedy saw that it was good, and clock can begin to tick again for the sound of L6 thunder

I think I am with Arne, the heart and soul of any sports car is the engine. Songs were not written about flares, or tires, or spoilers, but many were written about the engine. The L series is the pure core of the Z. Just like if you put a SBC and turbo 350 transmission in an early Jaguar, it really is not much of a jag an more. It is much much less.

Blue that is just amazing! Looking forward to your 151 setup. Keep those pics coming. Can you tell us what method you used when you first started your engine during break in?

Yes, that is in the plan. Just have not done it yet. I have a place set aside for this, but have not instituted it yet.

I wish the rest of the car was as pretty Guy.

You know, it is tough to find the anodized ones that stick inside the carb body like mine. My stacks slide between the venturi and carb body about 1.5 inches. From what I have read, you need to use those type stacks with this kind of carb. If I could find any I would certainly purchase them.

As promised, here is my attempt at polishing off the lettering on my valve cover. Problem is when I did this I inadvertently hit the bars that run the length of the valve cover, so I had to polish them... and then it goes on and on... But I am happy with the results!

Oh man, those looks wonderful. I KNEW I should have offered to buy those! Stunning buddy

They say that patience is a virtue. They say that all good things come to those who wait. They say that Patience is the companion of wisdom. What I want to know is who the hell are these people who say all these things. Certainly they were not people waiting a small exhaust part to come back from being ceramic coating so they could start their new L28! When John Quincy Adams wrote: Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish, he was not at the cusp of starting a brand new engine and hearing it roar its firsts breaths of power. I am convinced I will learn a life lesson waiting for parts, but certainly all the wisdom fades with anxiousness. In the mean time, I think will pull off the red valve cover and try to duplicate this top finish Eiji did on his car. My plan is to use a rigid sanding block and slowly remove the red paint until I get all of it gone, and then go to a finer and finer grit until it is shiny.

Wow! Intake heating tube and all!!!! You are the man Guy!

That was awesome~ Great pics, my favorite has to be the green 911 and that stunning Daytona

To answers own question yes you can use the older type crossmember on a type B tranny

I should probably mention, my car is NOT fuel injected. I use an O2 sensor to tune my carbs the 20th century way. I have no reason to think the one I have was bad, but it is sooty, and I wanted to ensure it was ready for some heavy tuning with a new engine with triple Webers

I am putting in a new engine and before I reinstall my O2 sensor I would like to clean all the carbon deposits off it. Is there a safe way to do this without damaging the element?

Are your AFR while driving or idling? If driving, is it possible that the fuel needle is not rising fast enough? A piston stuck to low in the jet would allow too much fuel to be added to the car at a given vacuum signal. IF this is happening at idle, then I am not sure how you could run rich with the adjustment jets all the way up. Unless the hole in the jet is not round anymore, allowing more fuel. This is really weird. Be careful, SU problems can turn into LOOOOONG threads. EDIT: just saw you checked the jet holes.

I just received my order from summit racing, minus the black Taylor spark plug wires, which were unfortunately back ordered :disappoin But I managed to get these tasty tidbits which I admit are a bit superfluous, but I love them. Makes doing valve adjustments so easy. I can actually gap the plugs properly now. I was going to install the plugs and wires, but realized I some how lost my feeler gauges. I mean really, who loses feeler gauges? I also need to decide how I am going to fabricate my new return spring. I use to hook it up to the spark plug holder on the valve cover, but that always seemed like an off nominal setup. I think I am going to drill and tap a new hole in the fuel rail, and use that. We will see how that works. Pics to follow.

I feel I need to make a correction... I got looking at Eiji's Datsun Spirit website and eventually found this video of his car running, and then went to this website that had a more in depth review of the L28, that cast the venerable old engine in a new light for me. This is from Australian Z Car website: http://www.viczcar.com/member-rides/eiji-hosomis-datsun-240z

yeah, I am beaming with pride! I emailed Eiji and told him he can use what ever pictures off my flikr account he would like for his webpage. I really enjoyed the read on his webpage about the L28, and the history behind its modification and the long history it has in Japan for tuning. Great education.

I think Travelnman asked the single more important question here. How are you going to use the car? That is the key. Also, there is another option not listed..in terms of expense... they go: SU's refurbed SU's bored and modified for more flow Triple Webers/Mikunis If you do not want to go with the 1600 dollar triple setup, you can spend more than the 680 dollar SU setup and get a modified SU from Ztherapy that can flow a HECK of a lot more than standard SU's. Give that a thought.

I certainly hope so. He made the buying experience amazing. And I about dying waiting on my exhaust to come back from Jet Hot. It is all that is left holding me up from hearing that beast roar.