Zedyone_kenobi

You guys kill me...you know there is a whole engine pulling thing going on in these pictures! HAHA I used UCOATIT products. It was a kit. I did it in mid 2008. It has been pretty much flawless since then. I have one or two places where the concrete peeled up about the size of a quarter that I need to patch. But when I called UCOATIT and send them a sample of the flakes, they said the paint did not peel, the concrete layer came up on the epoxy. But they gave me a FREE patch kit in the mail the next day and have been amazing with their customer support. Now on to todays work. Got the dizzy installed and some other brackets. Pulled almost all the parts I am going to need from the old engine and put them on the new engine, and set them aside to clean. Man, I have a lot of parts to get cleaned. Wish I had a media blasting case. But for now good old simple green and a brass brush will have to do. I also decided to put my Type A tranny next to the Type B I am going to install. There have been so many questions about shifter linkage, and the like. I will take any measurements anybody wants at this point while I have them lined up. But for now some pictures. I am looking forward to getting this thing back together, but the engine compartment cleaning has me stumped right now. It could easily get out of hand. I need to decide how much of a paint job I want to put in the engine bay. My goal is to be done before July time frame. But that can easily push to the right. It would be a shame NOT to do everything with engine out of the car. More to come.

Where my header goes from 6 into 2, then into one, My AFR is in the 2 into 1 section. I will have to get a new exhaust adapter to put into this one, as my old header looks like hell.

Actually this question is very interesting. I have the crossmember from my 71 that is on the right. THe one labeled automatic. My car was never an automatic, so I a bit confused at to which crossmember I should have. Now having said that. The crossmember on the right, is called out as a 69-71 style crossmember by other sources. Now I recently upgraded my 4 speed to a type B unit. I wonder if I can use that older crossmember on a newer Type B transmission.

My little one decided to give me a break and watch a movie, so I ran out to the garage to drop the tranny crossmember and pull the engine out. It was actually quite easy. From start to finish, it only took 14 minutes. Chalk that one up to having the right tools. and presto... Now the new one sits and waits until I get the engine pay painted. They sit side by side like two acquaintances that share a common friend.

I only ask people do that when I mop it first.! HAHAHAHA Oh and Congrats. Yes, the second time is far more relaxing!

Yes it does. It slots neatly in between the cradle.

Well if I can get my Z done by then, I would love to know what the new engine does on a initial tune.

Thanks Frank. Everything is poised for the 'big pull' this weekend. I painted the front of the radiator support with POR chassis black. May need another coat. Not sure yet. I built another engine cradle out of wood and gave it some Z speed rated castors (that was a joke) Pulled the center console, removed the speedo cable, disconnected the reverse indicator (question about that in a few) and broke lose all the bolts to the transmission cross member. Nothing left to do but move the lift over and crank out the engine/tranny! New engine cradle: Plans dimensions for engine cradle.. You need a 2x6 8 feet long. You should cut it up into 2-18" boards, and 2-30" boards. One 30" board needs to have a notch cut in it 2.5" from one side. The notch should be 2.0" deep by 4.5" wide. Nail or screw the boards together with the 30" boards running length wise alongside the engine spaced 8.5" apart. This will sit on the oil pan flange nicely. crude drawings of plans for cradle... Before and after pictures of my painted front radiator support: Before: After:

Elbow grease is the most valuable kind. Keep it up. My advice is also to always take your time. When you work on it, keep the projects manageable, and always repair/replace/clean/refurbish anything you unscrew, remove, or loosen. When it goes back together, you will know with great confidence that is right and set to go for another 30 years. The car was designed right from day one. You just have to slowly turn the clock back. Project by project those hands tick backwards

Well I know the radiator is not original as it is a three core. The PO told me he upgraded the radiator when the dealer put in the AC

Well I managed to get most of the work done. The entire engine is unhooked. Motormount bolts removed, and exhaust taken out. I think I will use this opportunity to replace my old header. It has always had a bad height difference compared to my manifold. And I have thoroughly HATED my smog ports since day one. So my next set will NOT have a set of smog ports. So far the list of parts to be replaced is growing. And the to be cleaned table is also getting filled.

Well had to take a brake from car stuff for a couple of days, just found out that my wife and I are expecting for the second time! :laugh: We are 7.5 weeks in and we have an ultrasound of a lima bean! HA HA So I am thrilled. Back to the less important topic of Datsun Z cars! Made some headway last night. I disconnected the starter and all the water lines from the passenger side of the engine, after making diagrams of where the wires go and bagging and tagging all the bolts. Then I removed the slave cylinder and just left it dangling. Next up was the distributor wiring, and then the carb fuel rail and the three webers. I managed to lose one of the springs for the carbs so I am going to order some replacements today. Next up is the O2 sensor and the driveshaft, and intake manifold. After that, just mounts and pull that bad boy. THIS IS CRAZY FUN! And now for the mystery. I found this on the floor after working on the passenger side of the engine. I am not sure what it is. It looks like a shim of some kind. Possibly from the slave cylinder? I do not really remember seeing it. Any ideas? IF you have any ideas that would be great. So the pull continues. I need to order some anciliaries today. New cap and rotor, new spark plugs, etc. After I get the engine out, I will have to start sanding and painting the engine bay. I mean you sort of have to do that when you have the engine out. I think it is a Datsun Law or something.

This is just freaking nuts. You sir are my new hero. Your attention to detail is epic. And your patience is being rewarded with every single part you assemble.

Okay we got down to business last night. I got the car up on jack stands and drained all the fluids. Then I drained the radiator, followed immediately by cussing and mopping up all the fluid that I completely overshot my bucket. 20 minutes of sweet smelling mopping later, I took pulled the radiator, and removed the alternator. Prior to doing all of this I took detailed photos and made drawings on the white board in the garage of where everything went. Naturally many sandwich baggies were used to collect parts, and a new bolt purchase list has been started to replace worn and tired looking nuts and bolts. But on to the pics! Before I removed anything: As she sits now: Old radiator. Debating if I should get it fixed or just source a new shiny aluminum one from MSA. The "to be cleaned" parts counter:

Well increasing the choke size will also decrease your throttle response. While the volume of air is unchanged, with a larger choke the air is moving slower through the intake. This effects fuel atomization and I would think transition from progression to main circuit. I currently run 30mm chokes in my webers, and plan to use those when I bolt them up to my L28 N42 head. If I start running out of juice at the high end, I will make appropriate corrections. I have a wide band, so if I start richening up at the top end, I know I have reached a flow limit. I personally think it will be fine. I would rather have throttle response over max HP.

You know blue, it is just scary how you knew I was fighting with this just 2 hours ago. I was going to go get some spacers at the hardware store to do just this. Update. Hood is off today and I am getting ready to get her up on jack stands. WAAAY up on jackstands. Pics to follow. I will get those pics of the wooden block and I will take some measurements for you Captain.

Well do not go by what I said verbatim. What he actually said was Datsun racing colors. I may have mistyped BRE in there to the fact that I am a BRE fanboy. HAHA But I love that magazine cover!

That is how Eiji does all his motors. He tells me that it is his tribute to the BRE racing colors for DATSUN. red/white/blue I am debating on if I will leave it on or put on my polished valve cover.

The engine has landed. Now the real fun begins. But before I do, I have many pictures to take and vids to make. I would really like to document this and dedicate it all to my dad who passed away this year. Pics for posterity:

Good luck keep us posted buddy

well that is a great picture, since I will be painting mine when I pull the engine soon. now I know exactly what to paint!

What is that key looking thing on the nose on the drivers side? Is that an arming switch for an alarm?

It looks just like yours buddy. Same exact part. You chose the more adult OEM finish with the blasting and it looks spot on perfect. I was far more lazy and just hit it with some aluminum polish and called it a day... You should be very proud of your work, it looks great!!! But like you, now that I have built one, think I could do it much better this time around. We always learn on our first attempt.

I will check that out, I have that issue sitting on my desk at home. I have not read that part yet. Curious to know Brocks take on it.

You know I love that car! Just amazing. But looking at the front end, I though the front of the radiator bracket was painted black from the factory. So when you look into the front grill, it was all black? Did that start with a later model year maybe, or was this car painted before.