Zedyone_kenobi

Doing some research, I found that www.futofab.com the folks who bring us the VTO wheels, sell a front lower control arm and TC rod kit. It is found here for reference: http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=28&Itemid=86 The problem it is not really cheap and I do not really think it is needed for a street car. It may be a big overkill.

Thanks Tlorber! That is great advice. I will take heed on most if not all of that. I started my front end work officially, instead of just picture plastering here, I will just post links to my other threads that cover the work. Front end Refresh http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46265.html

Well in an effort to get my Z ready for a rally I decided to address the tired front suspension... In particular the Ball Joints, Outer Tie Rods, sway bar bushings, T/C rod bushings, and control arm bushings. Things started off nice enough... All bolts came off with no issues. I still have to remove the steering knuckle, but I am sure an impact wrench will make quick work of it. Well I had the OEM bushings pressed out the of the front control arms and immediately hit a snag. One of these things is NOT like the other... Well DRAT! They look like they came from two totally different cars in this picture. I have no idea which one is right for my car. The left or right... Now I am not sure what I am more upset about. Having to find another set, or the fact that I paid to have the bearings pressed out of what was obviously a bent lower arm. Guess I am on the hunt for another set. Actually, the one that was bent was the driver side, and that was the only side I had rubbing on the body work when I ran 205/60/15's rubber. I wonder if that had anything to do with it? Guess I will find out. Now I need to source another set. I really would rather NOT pay for the Arizona Z car set up. Just too much money for a street car.

whoa! That chart says 901 silver is suppose to have red upholstery. Is that right?

Those chrome trim rings on the headlights are TASTEY

Well start with the simple stuff first. check your timing. check your fuel pressure Check your cap and rotor report back.

Soemthing tells me the holley conversion is misleading. I have not clicked on the readings, but how is the driveability compared to SU's. When my SU's were fresh from Z therapy, they were fanfreaking tastic. The numbers Blue posted are interesting, but I would like to know more of the comparison. Was the Holley new and the SU's old and worn out? What was the total area under the HP/torque curves for both. Peak HP does not mean nearly as much as total area under the curve.

sweet!!!

Of course, I think that would be great in this thread, so others can get the benefit of your wisdom

Best of Luck to you. Actual racing is quite the undertaking. Go get 'em

I would second that. It gives you adjustability if nothing else. The Ztherapy SU's are not just good, they are near art pieces. You will be thrilled with them. They run wonderfully right out of the box in most cases. I think the OEM fuel pressure for SU's is around 3.5 to 4.5, I would check out the FSM to be sure. Since you have a 72, the entire FSM is online at http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Every manual for your entire car is in there. It will help you out more than you can possibly imagine.

My deadline is November 11. That is when my Z will hit the road on something of a personal dream. I have been wanting to attend a first class vintage rally for years, hell, decades. When I first bought my Z back in 2008, I had this in mind as the main reason for getting a classic car. Sure car shows are fun and the occasional cruise to work is a joy. But getting them out on the road seeing beautiful scenery is what I think these cars are made for. Enter the TEXAS 1000. http://vintagerallies.com/texas/ I first saw this rally 2 years ago and thought it was spectacular. The cars, the sights, the experience is just what I was thinking my Z was made for. It was pretty expensive, but if I saved up for many months I could probably swing it. AS time went on and I worked on the Z when life allowed me to. I had many things delaying this dream. My wife had a pituitary tumor that had to be taken care of. My fathers fight with Renal Cancer took almost a year. But things are settling, and life has a way of moving on. After many sun rises and sun sets, My Z is about to go under its biggest transformation since new. Up to this point it has been to build the best stock 71 Z that I could. I tinkered with a mod here or there, but for the most part, it has been OEM as much as I could afford. But now, the chips have been played. I have been wanting to start a rally build thread for the longest time. But since the rally was not until November I figured I would wait. But then I figured you guys have been with me through dozens of mods (not to mention the dreaded year of the SU's part throttle popping fiasco). I figured I would take you along through my modification of a mostly bone stock 71 Z as it turns into a vintage rally driver that will do all of us classic Z guys proud when it is parked next to the Ferraris and Porsches. My list of things to do was LONG. Not that my car was in any way in bad shape. On the contrary, it was a great driving car, but some things I have not had a chance to get to. First lets talk about what has been done: 1) All new rubber in the car, every mount, hose, bushing, and seal (except for that exterior rubber that touches the window at the base) 2) All new brakes on all 4 corners, with a more aggressive street pad/shoe, and DOT 4 fluid, new power brake booster 3) New wheel bearings all around 4) Stainless brake lines installed 5) Newly cleaned and redone fuel system with shiny new evaporator tank and OEM plumbing 6) Poly Bushings on the steering rack, coupler and front sway bar 7) New retrosound audio system and 2 ken wood 5" speakers in the back. 8) Fixed rear power antenna so it works 9) Fixed all push cables in the heating system 10) Newly rebuilt clock and new Amp gage. 11) New wheels an tires (VTO with Bridgestone Potenza RE960) 12) New wipers 13) Daves headlight mod and a 60 amp alternator 14) Triple Weber Install (makes the car a joy to drive at any speed and throttle application! ) 15) New U joints in the driveshaft and half shafts 16) Other odds and ins like a recurved rebuilt OEM dizzy, coil, wires, etc...You get the drift. Second lets talk about what I have planned. 1) I plan upping the HP in the gal. 2) I plan on fitting a newly rebuilt transmission in her since my 3 gear has been whining for 2 years and it is a good time to fix that. 3) I want to totally redo the front steering components, for safety sake as I think they are original to the car 4) I want to get some wider tires for the rally, and preferably some Summer tires, in a 205/55/15 (currently have 195/60/15) which I can use as track day tires as well. So far I have put into motion three of the four. On the engine front... Eiji at Datsun spirit is building me a sweet L28, more on that baby to come, right now it is getting a cam ground to fit with my ROSS pistons. On the transmission. I have a newly rebuilt Type B 4 speed that I purchased from Z car source sitting in my garage with a new 240Z clutch, fork, throwout bearing, sleeve, install tool, and bushing waiting to be mated to the engine when it comes in. To accompany that, I have ordered a new dust boot for a 72 and up Z and a short shifter that MSA sells that looks like the OEM comp shift lever designed to work when fitting a Type B into a car that came with a Type A. It may work, it may not. Who knows. We will all find out together. On the front suspension front, since I have tokiko shocks and struts, I am leaving those alone, as I have no reason to doubt them. But my ball joints, and tie rod ends are old, I mean original old. They have got to go, as will my poly bushings on my TC rods. I ordered the Delrin ball kit. So I am going to do all of that at once. Pics are about to start coming in on the front end. The car is in the garage with the nose in the air. So the transformation is under way. This is going to consume my entire summer, but in the end, I really hope to have a beauty of a rally ready Z.

I think your on the right track with the Toyo's. The T1R is a great tire. Also, Toyo are also some of the lightest tires I have ever owned. Rotating mass is not negligible and the lighter your tire the better. Just more food for thought.

That is kind of my plan as well. I have an engine stand and an tilter coming in the mail right now. By the way, how the hell can Harbor freight ship me an engine stand AND a tilter and only charge me 7 bucks shipping, and if I buy a DECAL from MSA it costs 9 dollars! I am a firm believer in getting what you pay for, I am not just a little bit scared of the quality of harbor Freight stuff.

I just looked at your ebay listing. Did not know I was a full fledged marketing campaign... Good Luck!

This is a very timely thread.. I will be preplacing my L24/Type A four speed with a new L28/TypeB combo. Now I was originally thinking of mating the engine and tranny together out of the engine, then pull one engine/tranny combo out, and install one engine tranny combo back in. However, I am now thinking of removing the transmission first, setting it aside, and then pull the engine second with the intake, carbs, and exhaust all at once. Seems like it will be 6 in one hand/half a dozen in the other. Either way I will document it all.

Blue, I feel you. When working with Eiji at Datsun Spirit, he recommended I use the stock one or he could find another one. But he had heard of issues with the MSA ones. I am putting an OEM damper on my new L28. I hope you get this figured out. Good LUCK!

I think there is a new valvoline oil out there that was on GearZ on speed TV a few weeks about with a huge amount of Zinc inside. VR1 I think.

I am not sure keeping heat from your intake is a good idea. The extra heat into the manifold is needed to keep the fuel a vapor. There are many paper written about this. In a nutshell, keeping the intake warm helps keep the fuel in a vapor state. Too cool, it can puddle and not stay vaporized. Keeping the carbs cool is good, but a properly warm intake is good idea in many cases. for the most part, I think wrapping the intake will only prolong how long it takes to get to operating temperature. Just a thought.

I have been working Eiji for a month now and he is building up my motor. I have never been more happy with an investment of money. Eiji has been top notch with communication, advice, and recommendation. He has been honest, and first and foremost, he seems to put quality first. I plan an entire engine build thread to show what he has done and the decisions we had made. He has been right there with me the whole time. I am very happy to write him a check.

Looks like a repaint,as I do not think the grill was originally painted But still good looking car Look closely at it and mind the advice given about new paint jobs

Great news, on an other rear sway bar questions, is it possible to install a rear sway bar on a 71, which had no rear bar to begin with? I have been thinking of adding one for years, and would be a good addition to my tokiko springs and struts/

I agree, a 280Z is a great car with many fans. Look at it and look at it again. Be diligent. A daily driver Z with no rust sounds a bit like a magical car. Check the usual places. Under the battery, both dog legs, open the hatch and look at the sill plate. Pick up the carpet on both sides and look at the floors. Examine the door rubber and hoses and belts. Concentrate on the engine rubber bits. If they are in good kit, then they probably have taken a fairly reasonable care of the car. Also, look for wiring bundles that have been 'violated'. A 280Z has many wires that you can spend hours tracking down. THE good news is their are enough online resources here and in other places online that you can trouble shoot almost anything on a fuel injected Z. THe bad news is it can be a laborious task. Are you handy with a wrench, vacuum gage, voltmeter? If so, then go get us some pics of that car and let us SEE!!!

Yes I would do a great deal of shameful things for that wheel

Not sure, but 13.7" seems to ring a bell. I just really like the wooden wheel guys. I put it back on the car and I like how the wood feels in my hands. The slight grainy texture. It just brings another sensory connection to the classic nature of the car back to me. Its probably all in my head. But as part of staying original, it just seems to fit the car, or rather what I see the car tuning into someday. I just think I jumped the gun a bit too fast on this purchase. That money probably should have been spent on some S12 brakes and master cylinder upgrade. Hind site and all. I am far from perfect, and at times I will make a mistake with a purchase. I realized it when I walked away and I just could not shake how it looked in the car. The wheel will find a good home I am sure. But for the foreseeable future, I am going to stick with the old fashioned wood. Time to move on to the next mod. I have to find the right shifter to fit through my transmission tunnel with minimal mods. I have read the threads, and know what I am looking for.