Zedyone_kenobi

These are Gold Panasports. This is a direction I am thinking. I am also considering getting my entire panasport done up like this: OR this, which I happen to like the best!

I did some reading on the air bypass. Yup, I concur with your explanation. New healthy carbs should not need them open at all. But what an ingenious thing to include on a carb to account for wear. I know for a fact my butterflies are set perfectly and I have a good idle and not even a hint of a transistion issue, but I have not checked for balance since I initially set them up. I may have a go to see how close they are now. The air bypass actually lowers the amount of vacuum signal seen on a flowmeter for those of you who are interested. So you take the highest side of each weber and lower it to the lowest side to ensure balance on both barrels. Then you have to match each carb to one another. Very simple and elegant. Love me some webers stuff. Just when you think you know all you need. More info keeps coming in.

Mike well done Great idea of course I want a set

The air bypass is a strange cookie. It is down stream of the butterflies correct? I have left all of mine closed since I have been tuning webers. I always thought that I never needed them. I am not entirely sure of their function.

Weber tuning update. I have not ordered DCOE 45's, but I would love to try. However I have decided to get my setup even more dialed in. Again, I have run the same setup untouched for 4 years now. Car starts and drives beautifully. I decided to keep my LM1 wideband out visible while driving lately and found out how incredibly pig rich I was at 3000 rpm 4th gear steady state cruising. I decided that this was a main jet issue not an idle jet issue (due to the rpm) and checked my settings. My air corrector was a 170 and my main jet was a 130. This combo gave me a 11:1 AFR at 3000 rpm. Far too rich for normal cruising. This was with whatever Etube that came with my 151 DCOE 40's. I forget, F9 I think. Anyway, I decided to go down to a 125 main jet and leave the air corrector alone. Car feels fine, if not a bit more crisp. At 3000 rpm in 4th gear I am getting 12.3-12.5 AFR. now. I have a set of 120's I will try this week. If I can get around 13:1 I will declare victory and call it done. I have a beautiful idle at 850-900 rpm at 13.4:1 AFR. The webers prove to be so tunable yet again. If I get these dead set and running perfectly I will have no other choice but to order 45's and start from scratch again.

I have a mildly built Datsun spirit L28 and I run DCOE 40's with 32mm chokes. My jetting is based on a 40mm carb, so I cannot comment on how the 45's would take to my setup. Your settings are the critical ones for getting the car running for sure. Idle jet, air corrector, main jet and Emulsion tube. Those the largest tuning knobs outside of just picking a carb (40 or 45 DCOE) and picking a choke size (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, etc) However, lets us take a step back. You own a street car I assume and this is a back up for a race engine, which means those settings may be great for a race engine but not for a street engine. The difference is actually quite important. A street engine spends a lot of time at idle and even more time in the midrange were you want a good amount of torque and response. Off idle response and the transistion from idle jets to the mains is a vitally important for a street car. Now for a race, car what matters is peak HP/torque and quite a lot of time is spent Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Idle quality, efficiency, smooth transition are not nearly as important. A weber is a wonderful thing. It can be tuned to hit many critical areas. But it usually has to compromise somewhere. Be mindful of the difference between a street engine and a race engine. A race engine will not be happy living in daily traffic. I would think that those settings will make lots of power, but may not produce a happy street car.

Mike, I know you run the hypo jets....Well you use to. Do you remember which hole you had it on 1,2,3 or 4 with one being the smallest?

That is so strange. You were lean and went up on your air corrector form 155 to 160. I would have thought that would have made you more lean. Go figure. I am juggling a few projects around these days. I may try the chockes as Mike suggested first. When you have to buy 6 of something, It always gets expensive I have an urge to tinker with the carbs. When I do I usually end up back to nearly where I started. Car runs great right now. My AFR at 3000 rpm cruise are too rich, but have some room to adjust that with my hypojet. I have not messed with my carbs in years, as the darn thing just scoots like a banshee when I give her the beans. I have no transition hesitation of any kind, and she pulls to redline. Maybe I am overthinking this. LOLOL

I am a huge fan of the side stripes....They really unify the car between the bumpers. With the new Datsun side emblems, they pop!

I have issues with leaving things alone. Blame it on a short attention span, or what ever you like, but I have an urge to try some 45 DCOE's on my Datsun Spirit L28 STR engine build. My 40 DCOE's are doing well, but at times I wonder just how much I am leaving on the table on the top end. I changed out my chokes in my 40's to 32mm and it really woke up the top end. I have read that driveability suffers from the larger opening on the low end. My only point of comparison is my Roadster. It is 2 liters with 45 DCOE's on it. It idles and runs VERY smoothly and revs to the moon. Granted that is 0.5Liters/ per cylinder. While my Z is .47 liters/ per cylinder. I guess that is close enough. Anybody have any experience with this. AS it is a VERY expensive thing to just 'try' for shits and giggles LOL.

There you have it.. Webers for accessibility and ease of finding parts. I highly recommend them. They are a simple design that has many decades of experience available to you on this board to help out. Weber junkies like to help each other. Soon you will be talking emulsion tubes and idle jets and air correctors like a pro

For what it's worth I have never heard a non ticking L series engine they all make some valve train noise

Well you want his children to go to college don't you. Have a heart. Paying way too much is a badge of honor for Porsche people. I find they like to brag at how much the repairs cost. It keeps us plebeians away from their beetles.

The Gnose is a thing of beauty, but it takes a hell of a commitment to get it looking right. You will be into the kit for 2500 dollars before paint. I find it very attractive, but you have to have the rest of the car to support the look. That longer front overhang will cause issues on curbs and getting her on jack stands. So while you are considering it, you must consider how you use the car and if it is worth the extra cost and trouble.

Your only other alternative for springs only are the Vogtland or wait for MSA to finally get more of 'their' brand in. Their are literally NO other choices. I refuse to run coilers as I do not want to go that far from stock mounting points. And I will NOT cut my car for camber plates. So I will just wait or order set of Vogtland and write up a review of them.

Also the extra ride height is a god send for public roads and driveways and speedbumps I can get my floor jack under the engine cross member under the spook the eibachs make the car eaiser to enjoy

I run 205/55/15 the car sits pretty level,if I am honest the slightly larger wheel gap is not all that noticeable in most situations

I put the 001's on front, 002's in the rear You WILL have slightly more wheel gap in the front. Just get ready for it.

Count in me in! That box is amazing. I never knew anything like that existed. Can I be secretary of War. I want to drive a tank.

I will see you at ZCON buddy... We have all done things like this. We can get together for a drink or two and tell war stories. I have made more than my share, and will no doubt make more. Your car is beautiful... Cannot wait to see it in person. That interior looks beautiful.

I already run a 71b type 4 speed and enlarged the opening so the 5 speed should not require much work I have not tried zcarsource yet last transmission I bought from them I had to have rebuilt as reverse was clunking

You do not offend anybody! You are in very respected company. Originality is still king. However with cars like the 240Z (and 911, and 2002, and GTV) they are purchased not just to have a beautiful object to own, but the very roots of their pedigree are in motorsports and the ability to produce a thrilling drive. These cars attract those who want to capture that original 240Z magic as well as those looking for the ultimate classic car driving experience. A well modified classic version of the cars mentioned above heightens the driving experience. If the mods are tasteful and period correct, I have been posing to the classic car crowd, that these cars modified to drive are worth almost as much as all original ones. People who value the visceral drive over all out originality come with bags of money of their own. Both are welcome at my house!

Hey bud, Those are good questions. I will have to go look. But I can give you some quick answers now. I have only ever had tokiko strut inserts in my car. When I bought it they were their but badly worn, and I replaced them with new ones when I did my redo. Previously I had tokiko springs and tokiko struts. The car had even wheel gaps and rode very stiff. I had very little wheel movement if any and I was on bump stops almost constantly. I felt every single bump in the road. I upgraded to fresh tokiko strut inserts and eibachs. I gained about an inch of ride height in the back and a bit over an inch in the front. For the first time ever I could push on the four corners of my car and it would move downward. I gained a LOT of compliance. Car handled mid corner bumps well without much fuss for the first time. I cannot say if the fresh struts gave me this or the added ride height though. But the car is a far better street car now. I can put a jack under the spook with the ride height and I can drive on ramps without a 'preramp' to get up on them. Bad news for you is if you wanted to go tokiko springs again they are not available as of March 20, 2017. Your choices are Eibach Pros, or Vogtland for lowering springs. I hear MSA will make a new batch of what they are calling MSA springs, but no word on when that will be available. I do wish my wheel gaps were the same, but for the time being I am loving the compliance over bumps, ease of getting up and down driveways, and not scraping my exhaust.

Amen to that! Electrical Gurus like Steve and Zsondabrain who help out the community are irreplaceable. I am a mechanical engineer, and if it gets beyond Ohms or Kirkaffs law, I am out. As far as I am concerned it is all magic. A bunch of invisible things running around moving things and lighting things up. It is voodoo.

I got them with the Z club discount for 476 shipped I think.. I mean really it was so cheap I could barely stand to lose. Granted. I took a bath when I sold them with tires, but them the breaks