Zedyone_kenobi

The z car source sells refurbished fuel tanks. I think the prices are on the fair side. www.zcarsource.com

Many thanks sir! I will certainly check this out!

Where would the orifice be?

Just a note, the ones that go through the firewall are custom bent to fit perfectly. You certainly CAN run standard by the foot hoses here, but if you want to buy it and forget it, with a perfect fit, I would go with OEM heater hoses. Again, I am a stickler for originality and perfect fit.

My 71 lately has been having a hard time revving above 5000 rpm. It starts to spit and sputter and just is generally NOT happy there. I have checked the Vacuum advance, it is perfect,, I have set the timing, it is dead nuts on and stable as a rock Set at 14 Deg BTDC as my DiZZY rebuilder recommended since he changed the curve to the european one. The car starts instantaneously and idles as smooth as you can image. Below 5000 rpm it could be a honda it revs so smoothly. So with timing not the issue (new plugs and wires and cap and rotor and pertronix is getting voltage it should), I moved on the the carbs, as it is acting like it is running very lean. I pulled the plugs which have been in the engine for maybe a year (about 700 miles), and they looked light light brown, but almost surgically clean. Installed new plugs as mentioned and nothing. Since I am running the pertronix flamethrower as well, I gap my plugs at 0.045". I have also tried 0.050" with no change in results. So I proceded to rebalance my carbs. Not that I thought they needed it. NO adjustment was needed to the air balance so I then decided to close the Air/Fuel and then go out 2 full turns. Car started up and idled like it always did. Smooth as butter. I then went a half turn more, and the idle picked up just a bit.. GOOD. 2.5 turns is about standard. I then went another half turn and nothing really happened. But since I was sure I was running lean, I kept it at 3 turns. Buttoned everything up and took it for a drive. Problem actually got worse. So then it dawned on me that I should check my fuel pressure. I put a T in one of the carb fuel lines and let the engine idle. According to the manual I should be looking at 3.41 to 4.17 psia at any engine speed. Well, I am at 2.5 psia to 2.9 psia when I rev it. Next stop is to buy a new fuel pump (as this is the original 41 year old pump) and see what happens. Does anybody sell a purdy OEM one, that is all polished up? Or can I adjust the fuel pressure on my pump

Are you worried about it holding moisture Pops Z. Just curious.

Well if this goes well, and I do not mess things up too much, I will be doing this again. What really makes these cars worth owning is taking them out for a twisty drive with friends.

Oh, I get it, you are one of those pick-a-part multi-quote internet forum guys. Now I understand. Still, you are very thorough, can't fault you for that.

wow, you put diesel fuel in the crankcase! I wonder who was brave enough to try this first!!

Your arguing completeness ... In your attempt to educate or just look smart on the intewebs you can confuse most people. No, what I said was correct. They do that function exactly. However, it is not ALL they do, but they definitely do make the air flow entering the carb less turbulent. I will admit to leaving out the whole tuning the rpm range aspect of it, as that is an intake velocity discussion, which admittedly the air horns do influence. I just did not feel like getting into that. Also, it depends on what your definition of proper is I suppose. Datsun though enough of them to integrate them into the stock intake manifold. They were needed then as well. Proper has many meanings depending on who you talk to. If you want your L series to run as Datun intended. You NEED air horns.

I disagree to some point. It allows the air to enter over a smoother taper rather than a knife edge. Like a CdA calculation for compressible flow through any orifice. The Discharge coefficient matters as it alters the location and size of the Vena Contracta. But this is not an engineering pissing match as it does not help his situation. It is good to know how much information to give sometimes. bottom line, the SU's need those air horns.

CALL the HANGER hotel today if you can. They still have rooms available, but they will no longer hold them for me. Tell them you are with the Texas Classic Z car club and get the discounted rate. Apparently 5 of us have reserved rooms. A buddy of mine is going to bring his Porsche 944 turbo, (former Z owner and general great guy) so we are building up a nice little group. I expect a few more to trickle in. I am holding off a bit longer for shirts/magnets until I get a proper head count. Look forward to seein gall of you there! Hangar Hotel/Fredericksburg Herb Farm/Fredericksburg Brewing Co. kelly@hangarhotel.com 830-997-9990 (w) Contact info above!

just a thought, how much space do you have in front of your carbs. I wonder if my ITG filters would fit?

The SU's on the Z's really do need a horn on them for proper function. consider it an air smoother if you will. I would wager an original healy would run better with air horns as well. I know it will be more work, but I would strongly suggest finding a way to get them to work with air horns installed. When I tried my ITG's on my Datsun for a while before I refinished the air box, I put air horns in there as well. Yes, it was a pain, but it was worth it.

Be sure to post pictures when you have time!

I am trying to live vicariously through Arne and talk him into an Alfa GTV project.

GREAT to hear it. I am still in the process of getting prices for Tshirts and magnets made.

You got me there...not sure what is on the firewall. Mine is on the fender near the MC. But I have a 1971.

Aside from a warning light, what that valve really does is meter the pressure balance between your front and back brakes. It is called a proportioning valve in some cases. The light works off it as an auxiliary benefit This is a problem with no easy answer I can think of. Your car is currently not safe, so my advice to you, is to start with the master cylinder and start looking for leaks, or a poor seal. Then work your way down the line. If you have an obstruction not allowing that to work, you will need to fix that soon. Be methodical and take your time fixing it. This site will be extremely helpful.

Ghetto, you want some advice. Be patient and LET BRUCE HELP YOU! He is the man when it comes to SU's.

I thought the 72 had an R180.. I could be wrong.

Well put Frank... Hey on a side note, I took my Z out for a thrashing at Grandsport speedway this weekend. Have some cool video of me catching up in a a guy in a Z06, who obviously needed lessons. But I wanted to say that I tried your kitchen drawer liner trick you mentioned to me years ago. WORKED Like a charm. LIke having Racing buckets for the total price of $1.99. HAHA By the way, my Z ran flawlessly.

traveling man, if he dies not bite on that, let me know. Does it have that purdy cadmium finish on it? Mine is quite dull and ugly now.

I think Beer was saying that leaving the choke on is what fouled the plugs, not your inherent fuel mixture as set by your carbs.

Welcome to the mix Burl, I look forward to getting this really under way!