Zedyone_kenobi

Just for kicks I ordered a set of NGK factory replacement wires from rockauto. Well they claim they are factory replacement. I wanted to see just how good/bad the current taylor pro wires I had on the car are. Well this was eye opening. I took off the number 1 spark plug and measured the resistance through the wire. THese are the results The 9 year old Taylor 8mm wires measured 0.788 kOhms The brand new NGK wires measured 5.65 kOhms The fact that the old taylors were 6 times less resistive was amazing. Never thought that would be the case... So I now have a spare set of wires if I ever need them. What I wonder now is if the car would run any different at all with the NGKs on there. I may try one day.

I am currently running the 960A Bridgestones. Good tire, with acceptable grip to have fun with. I enjoyed them at my track day all day with no real loss of performance. I finally found their limits when I spun at the end of my last 15 minute session. I would really prefer a Summer tire. All seasons are just a compromise. But the 960's are a pretty good compromise. I have 195/60's on my Z on the new VTO's.

Just a note on timing, a stock 240Z should run 5° BTDC at idle with a stock dizzy, not 17°. There is WAY too much mechanical and vacuum advance built into our dizzies in the states. I have had mine recurved to a european advance curve and I run 14° BTDC at 750 rpm.

I am towing mine just to being extra parts as well. Plus if anybody has any trouble we will have a rescue vehicle. I am currently pricing an auto transporter AND truck to pull it with. $$$$$$ dollars. Maybe I can get my dad to let me borrow his truck.

I am wondering who would be interested in these. I think it will be getting them made in a long sleeve T shirt as well as a large Rally style magnet. Can I get a show of interest so I know how many to make. If the costs are in line, I will get them whipped up and bring them with me!

That is fantastic advice. Belts and hoses are a critical item that folks should think about I am going to bring many spares. 2 sets of plugs, filters etc

I am sooooo jealous!

WOW, that is a haul! Now I feel real pressure just to get this to be first class!!!!! haha

I look forward to meeting you soon Texis30O Perhaps next time!

End of the month bump to keep interest up. I will start pricing out a rental truck and flatbed to tow my Z up to the event and provide emergency assistance for any stranded Z that may break down. I may look into getting some stickers or Tshirts made up.

IT looks more like it is in your valves. Good job on running the wet and dry test. THe rings would seem to indicate fine with your tests. I would definitely look on the top end for a culprit.

Look, do not just quit. The car is not going to fix itself. Get back in here and stick with this... All that is being asked is to use a minimum amount of punctuation and grammar. A MINIMUM amount. You ARE smart enough to do that. I have no doubt at all. Yes, you can clean injectors, but yours are probably over 30 years old. It is better to replace them so you can definitely check it off that they are good. When ever you trouble shoot an older car, and you take the time to fix something, make sure there is no doubt it is done right. Also, is this your only means of transportation? Do you need this car to work everyday? That will determine how deep you have to go. How much do you have to spend, and how important is keeping the car original to you?

You do not get help by belittling the people you want help from. And please use punctuation on this forum. It helps people take you seriously. You gave us one symptom of a bad running car. This is what we do not know that we would NEED to know Miles on car Did the car run poorly before you changed plugs/filter/gas tank did you replace all the hoses in your car going to the gas tank or are they plugged and stopped up Is the car original or modified Are all the vacuum hoses in good shape What fuel pressure are you running What is your timing set at Also dose is not the word you were looking for. You mean 'It DOES backfire from the front' Take some more time and give the experienced members more information and word it in a grammatically correct way so they can spend time helping you and not trying to figure out what you wrote. By the way, glad to have a new member. Welcome.

I have been thinking of picking up a DC powered O2 sensor lately. I would like one with fast response time that I can screw into a threaded bung I would have welded into my exhaust. I would like to be able to see what my mixture ratio is while I drive. There has to be one that can take a 12V supply in, and send output to a digital gauge. That way I could just run some jumpers from the battery to the sensor and from the sensor to a hand held gauge. I am going to do a search for O2 sensors that are portable.

With the engine at idle what you are looking for is the highest possible idle you can achieve. Before you can do that though, you must balance the amount of air going through the carbs. If you have a unisyn or similar tool, get the air balance just right by adjusting the idle flapper angle adjustment screw on each carb until the flow through each carb is the same. What I do is hook up a digital timing light that has an RPM readout. Then I start with both screws two full turns from closed. I do everything in pairs. Whatever I do to one carb, i do to the second. I turn it one time to the lean direction on each carb and wait a few seconds to see what the rpm reads. If it goes up you have moved in the right direction. This is a coarse method. One turn out or one turn in should produce a noticeable effect on your digital read out. The factory tach is just not a fine enough instrument for this in my experience. Continue to zero in on the mixture ratio until you can not get the car to idle any faster. Picking up the plunger is explained in the video. I think if you raise it and it does not stumble it is running too rich. IT should stumble a bit when you pick up the plunger. Others with more experience with this are bound to chime in!

Check with Esprirt

UPDATE: I went to the gas station and put 5 more gallons of gas in my car. So thats about 6 gallons plus 5 more. I should be close to 2/3rds full. But I still do not come up to half way yet. It did definitely move. I think I am just biased too low. The whole gauge needs to be adjusted up a notch. Blue, if you have a diagram of that adjustment, I would love to see it. Guess I could just take my sending unit out. Better to read a bit lower than you are than higher I suppose.

I saw a screw on what looked like a helical spring, but did not mess with hit. I will go get some gas tomorrow and see what happens.

Okay, real time update. I pulled all the interior panels before Blue told me the fluctuations were normal. So too late for that. BUT I removed the gas sending unit and hooked an OHM meeter to it. It is reading full about 11ish Ohms and 85 Ohms when empty. About. When I put it back in the fuel needle moved up past E and about a 1/3rd up the gauge...which is about 6 to 7 gallons, I am sure these gauges are more accurate in the middle. So now I will fill it up and see if the gauge moves again. I see no reason why taking it out and moving it and installing it again would have fixed anything.

I did not know that!!! VERY cool... But it is a brand new sending unit. straight out of the NISSAN wrapper.

I checked the resistance between the two terminals, and I get a constant reading of 86.7 Ohms with about 7 gallons in it. Also when take a voltage reading from the yellow to the black wire, It fluctuates between 13.1 volts to 0 volts regularly as clockwork with the engine running. It fluctuates with the same regularity (about 2 Hz) between 11 and 0 volts with the engine off. This just seems weird. I get only 68 Ohms of resistance between the black and yellow wires, going through my gas gauge. This is very confusing!

awesome!!!

I agree, I drew a diagram of how it came off the tank, the black/yellow wire does go on top. But I will be darned if I noticed how I installed the pick up...I will check. I will be surprised though. The sending unit has a notch in the side that will only let it go on one way. I may have my wires mixed up then. I will check the resistance going through it tomorrow.

I may have to start looking for it!

I think I will try to take some pics without the center caps ala John Morton and see what it looks like...