soundmasterg

I had this same problem in my Volvo 1800S when I got it. It had been sittng for 10 years and ran fine for a week then got all gummed up. After I pulled the tank it had something similar to what you found in it. I got the tank all cleaned up and tanked at a radiator shop and it was fine after that. I'm still not sure exactly what it was though. Greg

Thanks Jon. I'm planning on somewhere between 300 hp and 400hp, so as long as it can handle that without complaint with the 6 clutches that it will have, then I'm fine with that. I've still got the 4 speed and the original R180 in there right now though. Been reading up on the MM-CV stuff before I swap in the R200 CLSD, because I only want to do it once. Greg

So if I've got a Nismo unit with 4 extra clutches from Gary Savage to add to my Nismo instead of the spacers, then I'm basically where the KAAZ unit is with the exception of being the 2 way instead of the 1.5 way, right? Greg

What makes that new KAAZ unit better than the Nissan LSD Jon? Greg

Will, Where do you get the emblems and the aluminium threaded insert? I'm going with a BW T5 and a Summit racing shifter in my '72 240Z, and the shifter uses a Ford thread, which is bigger than the Datsun 8mm thread. I believe the Ford thread is 14mm, though I could be wrong. I don't like any of the offerings for a Ford shifter knob and was thinking of making myself something out of wood to fit the shifter shaft, but with a Datsun emblem. If I could find the threaded insert in the correct size and thread, and a Datsun emblem to slap on the top of the shifter, I'd be in business. (Or if you could make one, that would be very cool too!) Thanks, Greg

I've got a set of 5 original steel wheels that came on my 6/72 240Z that I want to sell. They have tires with decent tread on them and are not bent. I'd sell the set of five for $75 + shipping if anyone wants them. If you don't want the tires, I'll dismount them if you pay for it. I'm in Oregon. A PM is the best way to get a hold of me. Thanks, Greg P.S. I even have two original hubcaps in very nice shape that I'd sell though for now I have no idea what kind of price I'd like to get for them.

What were the stock sizes for the 240Z sway bars? I was thinking of upgrading to a rear bar at some point, and possibly going to a larger bar in the front too, but it would help to know where I'm starting off at in regards to the front anti-sway bar size. Thanks! Greg

Hmmm...some of the bulbs will light without being plugged in so they are not touching the back housing of the gauges. Others won't light without being plugged in. I assumed that the ones that lit were designed to do that and the ones that weren't were supposed to be grounding through the metal back of the gauge, but perhaps I have some bad ground wires somewhere? It wouldn't surprise me as the car sat 20 years and had rats chewing on things at times. I'll have to take a closer look to see what I can find once the rain stops. Wish I could fit the car in the garage............ Greg

From what I could see it looks like it is just a round hole in the back of the gauge, and the bulb holders don't turn to lock in at all....but I'll have to look at my extra dash again. When the bulb holders are all the way in and the lights are working, you can turn the holder all the way around and still have the lights work.....or not. Greg

I wasn't talking about the car vibrating and shaking the wingnuts loose....when I hit bumps, sometimes the light bulb holders that go into the back of the gauge are coming loose enough that the little brass contact is losing it's connection with the back of the gauge, and the light goes out. If I reach back there with a long screwdriver for the speedo light, or with my hand for the rest of them, I can usually get them working again until I hit another big bump somewhere and there go the gauge lights again. I still have my center stuff out so I can reach back there....not putting it back in until I get the light issue solved. If someone has any suggestions about how to get the light holders to stay in, I'd appreciate it. Greg

I recently replaced the dash light bulbs in my '72, and I pulled the dash to get the speedo ones because I just could not get to them otherwise after spending many hours trying. I ended up having an issue with several of the bulb holders losing good contact on the back of the gauges and the lights going out when I hit bumps. As a result I haven't put the center stuff back in yet so I can reach back and attempt to get the lights working again. I got a long straight slot screw driver to push the speedo top light bulb holder back in and with a combination of that, a forehead light, and some small hands, you could possibly change the top bulbs without pulling the dash, but it would take awhile and be very frustrating for sure! If anyone has any ideas how to get the bulb holders to stay in the back of the gauges and not lose contact so the lights go out, I'd be appreciative. I've tried retensioning the plastic on the holders, and the brass contact, and while better, it still pops loose sometimes. Having problems with the speedo and tach lights mostly. Greg

Driver's side door pin is the pin for the lights. When the door shuts, it pushes the pin closed and the lights go out....when the door is open, the pin is open and the lights go on. It is mounted on the front of the door frame and comes out from the inside of the car. It has a plastic shaft on it which breaks easily, especially with age, which is what happened to mine. Greg

I assume since it was in a fire, things like the driver's side door pin are no longer useable? If its still good, then I need a driver's side door pin for a '72. Thanks! Greg

I agree with Arne on this.....and besides, in '72 the A/C was a dealer installed option and some dealers did a good job and others did not. They used several different types of A/C setup and all were lousy by today's standards. I'd rather add a modern A/C setup to my car if I wanted to run A/C than use the old setup. I'm not really worried about A/C with the Z anyway as I don't need it in Oregon for very much of the year. Greg

I think its around $400 to $800 depending on who is doing it......but thats just what I've heard....I haven't checked into it firsthand. Greg

I saw that too Gary....I was amazed that the guy ended up on the roof! Now he has to live with killing some passengers for the rest of his life....pretty tragic and stupid. Greg

Hi Carl, Thanks for the quick reply. My Z's seat belts are dated 6/72, but the door date plaque is missing, so my dating of the car as such is just a guess. The VIN number is HLS30-87974. Since my 4 speed has the adjustable fork, I assumed my car came with it as the engine is original....you would think the transmission is too. It is a type B 4 speed. The car only has 87000 miles on it. Since everything is the same, I'll go with the adjustable setup......I wasn't sure that it would fit before, but I trust your judgement. I've already got most of the other parts I need for the swap. Thanks again! Greg

Carl, Is there any easy way to modify the clutch fork from the turbo to accept the earlier, adjustable slave cylinder rod? The reason I ask is that from what I've been able to research, if I elect to use the 240Z rod from my 6/72 240Z with the adjustable slave cylinder that is on my car and with the 240mm turbo clutch, then I need a throwout bearing collar from the turbo, but a throwout bearing for the 240Z? I'm not sure about that though as there seems to be conflicting info out there about it. I would like to keep the adjustable option, and would like to go with the simplest, most heavy duty option, as I plan on putting a high horsepower turbo into my car at a later date. I'm going to be swapping in a BW T5 from an '83 turbo ZX. I've got a shift fork for the turbo car and looking at it, it looks like it could be modified to fit the adjustable rod? If I did this, then I could just use all turbo parts except for the slave cylinder from what I can gather.... Greg

My car was missing whatever tar mats would have come on the driver's and passenger's side floorboards, though I would think since the exhaust exits out back, that the exhaust coming into the cabin would be getting sucked through bad seals in the back or grommets missing or what have you rather than coming up through inspecion holes in the floorboards? My floorboards are excellent too btw....no rust. Greg

My 1972 240Z was sitting in a chicken coop for 20 years when I got it. I changed the clutch slave and master, all brakes, drained gas, complete tune up on the engine, turned engine over by hand after squirting oil in the cylinders several times. It started and ran after that, but the carbs needed work, so I overhauled them. Replaced exhaust and got rid of smog stuff, replaced trunk seal. Changed to a Pertronix. It runs and drives as a daily driver right now, but needs lots of work still. Still am fighting exhaust fumes in the car, especially when the windows are opened. Still have to change front seal, real seal, and pan gasket. Needs u-joints on the halfshafts, door seals, etc., but with some simple work like I've pointed out above, it can be made to run and drive fine with not too much effort. Greg

I've only got a single-wide garage and with Z parts all over and what not, I don't have room to put the car in.....even when I could put it in, I couldn't open the doors on the car. So the 1972 240Z is in the driveway, the 1985 Audi 4000 Quattro (once I fix the clutch) will be parked on the grass, the 1973 Ford F250 is on the side of the house (and for sale), and the 1969 Volvo 1800S is under the tent in the back yard waiting for me to get $$ to paint it and put it back together. Greg

+1 on that option! I've got stock brakes in the front and the MM setup in the back with stock master cylinder and stock proportioning valve and it works very well and is an easy conversion. It does cost a bit, but you get what you pay for. Greg

Any chance you could make the driver's door pin for the 1972 240Z? Or does anyone know where I can find one? They're NLA and mine is broken. Greg

I haven't had any vibration at all on mine. Greg

Summit Racing sells some brass bushings that will hold up a lot better than the stock ones. I got some off ebay for $10 for my type B 4 speed and they made a world of difference. I was able to change them from the inside of the car too. Greg