soundmasterg

It seems to work just fine installed backwards. MSA should probably get some better documentation though. I remember when I installed mine and I had to trial fit it several different times to see which way would be best. It doesn't hang down overly much. Greg

I switched to discs on my 240Z, but when I was checking into parts replacement for the drums initially, I checked at Halsay import parts in Portland who were able to get them new. This was in March of 08, so it could be that their source has dried up by now but its worth a shot if anyone really needed some. I do have the drums that were in my car still. They're for sale if you want them. (Insert Star Wars scene here...haha) If anyone wants the drums, pm me and I can send info and pics. I have no idea what the going rate is for a pair of decent drums, but I'll sell 'em for a fair price. Greg

If I went to the Pertronix and a Crane PS-40 coil, should I increase my spark plug gap also? I tried it before I put the coil in and it ran better at .032 than above .040. Greg

I've heard of walnut shell blasting too....any comment on that? You could always dip the car in an acid bath....tho with a Z thats probably not a good idea unless you want to be left with a FIAT...haha Greg

I had a similar problem with the parts guy at Wilsonville Nissan, who pretty much refused to look up anything old and said nothing was available. I complained to the general manager and he pretty much told me to suck off, and he cancelled the sponsorship with the local club I was in because I had the temerity to complain about poor service. Then he lied about what had transpired when the president of our local club called to find out what the story was. I made the mistake of emailing the local owner of that dealership to complain while I was still mad, said some things in the email that probably shouldn't have been said, and ended up getting kicked out of the local club I was in. An unfortunate situation for all concerned and I ended up getting pretty screwed by the deal. It seems like some of the Nissan dealerships are trying too hard to sell new cars and are forgetting about customer service these days. Greg

The 914 can be made to shift just fine.....it takes a side shifter or some aftermarket shifting arrangements. Grassroots Motorsports had a project 914 a couple years ago and they went all through the conversion in the magazine. if you look on their site you can probably find out info about the project car. Greg

If I was going to put a later transmission (BW T5) in my 1972 Z, and I wanted to keep the adjustable slave cylinder arrangement, would I have to change the shift fork from my 4 speed over to the T5, or will it not work? Greg

What cars would the EFI fuel tank come from? Do they swap into a 240Z without major surgery? Greg

So who married the car? Greg

I thought everyone might like this video from Jay Leno's site on the GT-R. His site has tons of cool things on it anyway for a car nut but check this one out! Greg http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/video_player.shtml?vid=244892

The contacts inside the switch are probably oxidized and need to be cleaned. This happened on mine when I first bought it. The hi-beams would work but the lows would not. Taking the switch apart and cleaning the contacts fixed it. You might as well do it anyway as you can bet the contacts are probably oxidized after all these years. Greg

No problem! If you need further help, we're all ready to help. Glad you were able to find the correct one. Greg

Thanks Jon. It sounds like I should be ok in my '72 then without cutting. Once I'm able to track down the parts I need for the swap, then I'll know for sure. Greg

I'm running 205/60-15 Kumho's on Swastika rims and I get a small rub if I'm backing up and turning to either side. If I'm careful and don't turn too much, then I have no rubbing at all. My car currently has the stock ride height, and the tire is rubbing at the back of the valence. I plan to eventually change to 16x7's, lower profile tires, and lower the car, so I don't expect future rubbing. My input anyway. Greg

Yah, I posted some pics of the incorrect one on that other thread with the four bolt holes. I too had trouble finding the 91 Civic motor that had the three holes, and just went with one from a 91 Accord. It is stronger according to Dave Irwin, and it mounts the same as the Civic one that Dave used. If you do use the Accord one, you have to get the motor in the park position, and then grind the shaft down to fit into the Datsun wiper arm assembly. it has to be ground at a particular angle so the wipers will park in the correct position, so you don't want to screw that particular part up if you decide to go that way. Once you have the shaft ground to the correct shape, and you've drilled the holes for it, it goes right in and hooks up to the relay and wiring as Dave mentioned in the thread. Its not too hard and even if you're completely mechanically and electrically challenged, it shouldn't take you more than a day, and tha tincludes getting the motors at the wrecking yard. Greg

Is the cutting of the front of the shift tunnel that is required mostly with the Nissan 5 speed only, or is it with the T5 also? My question specifically relates to the '72 240Z as that is what I have. From looking at pictures it seems like the opening in the shift tunnel on the '72 is in a different location as on the earlier cars? Thanks, Greg

Not a thing! I was just saying that you should go join the hybridz forum too since that one is more for modding your Z than this site is and you may find some useful info there. I plan a whole host of mods for my 240Z but I enjoy both sites. Maybe you will too? Greg http://forums.hybridz.org/

With all those mods you plan, it sounds like you should go join hybridz too. Greg

I've learned to play with my Z, cause it can be trusted to not let me down....nothing to do with u tho. Greg

You KNOW every guy on here will imagine taking it the wrong way......every girl's a tease. Greg

I know that the 240's have a little code on the lock cylinders....some have said passenger side door only, but mine had it on both doors and the hatch too. Mine was missing the sticker in the glove box that was supposedly there on the 240Z. I don't kno if it was there on other models or not, and I don't know if the 280Z got the code on the door locks or not, but it requires taking the door panel off and pulling the lock cylinder to tell unless someone else knows for sure. It is best to get extra keys made from the code rather than just copying your existing key because your key could be and probably is worn....so your copies would be too. But if you're in a habit of locking your keys in the car, go get some copies made Khrystina. :laugh: Greg

I'd like to go but if I do, then needed work doesn't get done on the Z. Have fun everyone if you do go. greg

Congrats on getting the issue solved! Getting a key made to the code shouldn't be very much at all....$15-$30. You can also just have them copy your existing key, though if the key has any wear it won't work as well as one made to the code number. An actual locksmith will be better than some key machine and attendant at home depot or something. Look up a locksmith in your phone book when you get around to making the keys. Yah, no problem.....who can resist a pretty face and a fellow Z owner! Greg

Once you're able to get into the car, and once you do what was suggested for the ignition, then you should be able to start it and move it. If you want to get keys made, you need to know the code for your car. If it is like my 240Z, there should be the code on the lock cylinder from the passenger side door, but you will have to take the door panel off to get to that. The code may also be in the glove box on a sticker unless they stopped doing that by the time of the 280Z. Once you have the code, you can take it to a good locksmith, who can make you some keys. Assuming the ignition was the same as the doors, then you should be good to go. If it wasn't, then you would have to have the ignition retumbled for whatever key code you want. I would think you should be able to find a friend who has AAA who could help to get you into the car. Sometimes a coat hanger, or a small screwdriver will help. You can get into a Ford Taurus with a small screwdriver inserted into the door handle slot without too much trouble for example. If I didn't live so far away I'd offer to help you. Good luck! Greg

I'm using the Crane PS40 coil, which measures out to 1.8 ohms. I had it hooked up to the ballast resistor originally, but with the issues I was having and after talking to Pertronix, they suggested to bypass it. After replacing the unit with the new replacement one, I ran it without the ballast resistor and the problems are gone. It revs nicely to 7k now. Greg