santamaus

Hopefully this thread isn't too old, but since you're talking about some rims I'm looking at--I have a '72 240z, and found some 280zx turbo snowflakes in decent shape. I'd like to go with 15" wheels instead of the 14"s, and something slightly wider, which these are. How compatible (are they the same?) is the offset? I don't need super wide rubber, and he's got 195s on there right now. Will I (should I?) use spacers? I still have the stock hubs on the car. Thanks in advance, Christopher

Yes--LEDs, I saw a range of about 2W to 5W, mostly depending on lumen output. I knew there were two flashers, I didn't know they where in two different places. Did you end up just bypassing the rheostat and bridging the two sides?

Thanks for the speedy reply! I'll swap those for LEDs, for all the obvious reasons. Pretty much all that I saw are listed as 1156 bulbs with less than 5w draw--I'm guessing from your post above that the sockets are identical between the 67/89/1156 bulbs--they're just different wattages? My rheostat is not awesome, so it's no worries replacing that--did you have a recommendation on something that fits easily? I'm guessing with full LEDs I'll need to swap out the flasher unit as well, looks like that's in the steering column, so I'll find out what will fit there when I take the headlight switch out to clean it.

I know this thread is a little old, but it came up on a search for replacement boxes. I just installed the headlight upgrade harness (which is awesome and easy, btw!), and noticed that my parking/tail lights were out. Traced it back to the fuse box--yay. Saw the cover was head distorted and the inner clip was slightly melted, as was the metal inside the fuse, but the not in the middle where it should have gone out. So--question is, what causes this particular fuse (and the inner side of it) to consistently overheat? Have I unknowingly solved the problem with the headlight upgrade? It seems silly to just replace the box only to have it overheat and fail again because I haven't solved the problem that caused it in the first place.

Thanks, I'll check them out. It's been awhile since I've posted here, I see it's had quite a facelift... under new management?

I'm interested in moving forward on restoring my Z. Has rust in the usual spots (front of rear wheel wells), as well as some on the rear hatch. Anyone know of a decent knowledgeable shop in the Everett, WA area? I'd like to pull the whole thing apart and have it repainted and the trouble spots fixed for real, not something temporary that's just gonna be trouble in the near future. Thanks in advance, Christopher

All the above really, though protection and durability is the main reason. I have to replace the u joints anyway, so they'll be taken down already. As for suspension, I mean the big pieces-- crossmember, arms, that sort of thing.

I am getting ready to refinish the suspension on my Z. Does anyone have any recommendations for a powder coater in the Everett area? Or is there a better coating that I should be considering for the suspension? Should I also do the half shafts or is there a problem with balance doing that?

I couldn't find a thread with this info: What are the calipers used in these two upgrades: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic21k http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21l/24-5705 Is the second one the one in this thread: http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/toyota-front-disk-brake-upgrade/ I purchased and installed the first one above years ago, and I'd like to be able to service it without going through Motorsport Auto (they're pretty tight lipped about what calipers they used). Thanks in advance, Christopher

Which Toyota calipers are these? I'm gonna need brake pads for them sometime, but MSA isn't very forth coming about what they are. Which ones are the XL calipers? As long as I'm asking, anyone know which calipers are in their rear conversion kit?

Heh, except for the 3/4 view, I saw most of these today. I'd like to model the US model Z, not the Fairlady variant. Is the only external difference the nose? Are the headlight buckets the same size? If so, or if I knew what the difference was, I could interpolate where the hood probably was. I see a little difference in the way the hood meets the headlights--is the hood the same? I could always round the front edge of the car from that point if that's the marker. I realize the drive is on the other side, the mirrors are in a different place, there are wheel flares, etcetera, but I can work around those if the rest of the body contours are the same.

I'm looking for accurate 3 way (top, side, front) views (blueprints/schematics) of the 240z. Does anyone have some or know where I might find them? Internet searching is not being overly helpful, and the little image on the-blueprints.com is too small to be any use.

Awesome. Took pictures before I logged on, so that we were talking about the same thing. This is the Spicer joint (with one cap pulled off to show the seal), the grease fitting, and the c-clip. Looking under the car, it appeared that there were some outside, but Chris' (not confusing at all! ) pictures answer the question. Thanks again!

Yes... Harbor Freight is where I got the press, just couldn't remember the name off hand. The clips come in a separate bag in the u-joint box. Perhaps they keep the end caps on one you clip them in place, but I don't see where--there's no opening in the slot for the clip. Dunno... obviously I didn't get to taking them out today; if I get a camera I'll post what I'm talking about. As it is, there's a soft seal where the end caps slip over the rubber seals near the center of the joint (presumably to hold all the grease in, not to keep the caps on). Thanks for the speedy replies! Will keep you posted.

Old thread! Anyway, I'm about to do this as well. I notice that the central piece has a grease gun pressure fitting, and there are 4 clips for the individual end caps (with grooves for each). I haven't removed the drive axles yet, so perhaps that will answer my question tomorrow--but these seem like they'll keep from being able to press the caps out the other side of the yokes. Are they for universal usage, or specific to the Datsun application? It appears looking under the car that there are already c clips that attach to the yokes to keep the pieces in place (on the outer edges of the cross shaped piece). I have a U joint press, so no hammer action, I'll get to do it gently.