santamaus

Yeah.. I put the one from MSA in mine. I already had a five speed in there. It works by moving the pin on the shifter up, shortening the actual lever arm, rather than just shortening the shifter. It came with all new bushings too. As a result, shifting takes a little more effort than it did before. That said, I think the throw between first and second feels like about three or four inches instead of at least twice that. I used the grip that came with it, which is heavy, and quells a little vibration in the shifter, as well as feeling solid. I like it, and think it feels great. That said, the bushings on the old shifter were more than worn out, and the shift motion was not only long, but vague. Don't know what it feels like when it's tight with the normal throw. I'd say go for it! Hope that helps, Chris

I have a 240 with a 260 engine in it. BTW--I'd rather have a 260 steering wheel. Anyone know where to get one? Chris

Ok... got the two headers off--none of the bolts/nuts required much effort to break loose, and they are all the same size (they all take a 12mm socket)--should I guess that they are therefore all 12ft-lbs bolts? I know it's not terribly structural, and I mostly need a good seal. Any recommendations? Chris

How do you remove the glue and stray bits of old weatherstripping? Is there a solvent for this? I don't want to scrape it away and end up damaging the paint underneath it. Thanks, Chris

Which dam and hood are you using? What about the under bumber lights? What size wheels (panasports?)?

Recently got the MSA header... looks like good advice here. Anyone know what the torque values are for the intake and exhaust manifolds? Thanks, Chris

Anybody try the TRS or A4 seats? They're an inch taller than the Forza, which seems to be a tight fit. A difference in seat bracket would make a lot of difference though. Any comparo with the seats in the 2001 prelude? Switching back and forth between them, well, I think the 30 years have done something to seat tech. Zyaa ne! Chris

Same thing? My 240 has the stock gauges in it... how high do the L26 and L28 rev? Thanks! Chris

I'm just reasking this, since no one answered the first time. Drove by a 300zx today and looked the seats over (I'm talking about the first gen 300zx, not the later one). I'd like to have some sideways support in my 240--how about it, will they fit? How much modification? Thanks! Chris

Are all the feeler distances and torque values the same for the valve train on the L26 and L24 engines? Thanks, Chris

I need one shoulder belt if you have it left. Let me know. sneechling@tripod.net

Thanks! Chris

Heya--I've got a L26 that I'm putting fresh air filters (K&N) and a freer flowing pipe on. I may put a new cam in it in the near future, but that can wait. As long as I have the carbs off, should I be increasing the main jet size? As for parts, should I shop further than what's in the Motorsport catalog? How is the 17033 cam in there? The springs? I've heard that Crane is good? What about the Taylor spark plug wires? I already have an upgraded distributor--a high perf coil worth going to with the wires? I read the thread about power drop off at higher rpm--I think this is probably a gas flow problem (I think there's a baffle loose in the muffler), as the rest of the engine is fairly recently rebuilt. Thanks in advance! Chris

On rollcages--where in the bay area is there a company that does this for Zs? Do they do them individually or is there a straight kit for them? On chassis stiffness/flex/torsional stress: do the sway bar mounts usually break at some time? When did rear sway bars get added? Is there a decent way to fix or prevent these shortcomings? Thanks, Chris

What is the standard width and offset of the 72 240z? Chris

How are these and the rest that tie into the frame mounted? Do you weld them onto the frame or drill holes and screw them in? Existing holes? It seems that drilling more holes in the frame is not the best thing to do. Chris

About the Carbotechs... Yeah, they do make a street compound set: The silvers (actual drum shoes) and greens/golds for the front disks. Ambient activation temp up to about 700 degrees. CF about .48 on both, IIRC. http://www.carbotecheng.com/prod-ct-compounds.htm Check them out. I found a couple of reviews that said they rocked too. A lot cheaper than a full brake swap too. These combined with some decent brake lines should haul that Z back to zero. Chris

What about for daily use? Not using the brakes quite as much... are the Carbotechs a good daily driver brake? Chris

By dipping... I really meant application by hand--brush or spray, it seems to resist strokes, so all the interior surfaces, underside, engine bay, interiors on the doors, etc. seem like good candidates. If I take the car apart, is it worth going to bare metal and starting from there? If so, should I have the old paint sand blasted off, or something else? The couple of cars I've looked at raise a question: The weatherstripping around the chrome rail on the doors (especially where it runs into the front of the door) seems pretty cheesy, and susceptable to a lot of water drainage. Is this so? Do the doors drain pretty well? Is it worth anti rust coating the interior of the doors? Thanks, Chris

Is this the miracle cure it's made out to be or not? Is it flexible? If applied to a panel that flexes, will it chip off? Is there any reason why I shouldn't just dip the whole bare frame and body in the stuff and then primer and paint on top of it? Chris

Anybody have any experience with a Bay Area body shop that they can share (positive or negative!)? I'm looking into purchasing a Z that already has wheel flares added, but needs the interior fender trimmed away. How difficult is this to seal? Anyone have any experiences with POR-15? Thanks in advance, Chris