Everything posted by Jehannum
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Time of day to tune SUs?
After an unfortunate coolant leak yesterday, I decided to tune the carbs up. I followed the FSM directions, set the mixture to about 2 turns out (5000 feet, 88°F out), synced 'em up at idle and 3000RPM, and gave it a quick rip around the block to see how it felt (great!). This morning, I set out to drive the car to work, and it ran horribly. Backfiring, misfiring, all manner of bad behavior. The water temp and oil pressure were about the same as yesterday afternoon when I took off, so the only difference I can think of is the temperature (60°F). With the choke all the way on, the misfire issue was taken care of, but not the backfires. The FSM indicates leaner operation at higher ambient temperatures, so the smoother operation with the choke makes sense. Should I be tuning in the morning, and accepting the (poorer?) performance in the afternoon?
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Resurrection
Sealed up the hydraulic systems: Put on the rear finisher: got the battery slotted in: got the intake and exhaust put on: Apparently had the timing set right! Started right up. The tune is rough right now - I just followed the FSM for my altitude to set the mixture, and didn't bother synchronizing the carbs (sync tool was at my house, not this garage). Not pictured, because it took place between ~4PM Saturday afternoon and 4:45AM on Sunday morning: exhaust fabrication, hood alignment, bumper installation, and detailing. The goal was to get the car ready for a show on Sunday (5/16). The car was ready, but I was out of it. On the way home, I figured I'd catch a catnap and go to the show (meet at 7:30AM), but the catnap turned into something longer, and I missed out. Left to do: 1) fix the small coolant leak at the heater core lines 2) install the gas cap (somehow, the metal ring that the gas cap slots into didn't make it home from the body shop) 3) fab some brackets to mount the rear bumper 4) fab two more exhaust brackets to stop the rattling 5) top off the tranny with gear oil 6) Locate and resolve an intermittent metallic scraping noise that seems to come from the front of the driveshaft/rear of the transmission 7) Eliminate some overspray on my interior panels 8) make sure my tires are all up to pressure 9) check alignment (seems to pull a bit) Way better than the list I started with, though. I'm either suffering from residual exhaustion, or I'm just giddy that it's finally on the road again.
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Wix/Napa Filter Number for 72 240z
1521 Napa Gold
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Resurrection
Thanks guys, your comments mean a lot to me, especially coming from enthusiasts that can appreciate the fun of an "underpowered" sports car . I'll be working on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday to finish knocking it together and shaking it down.
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E-Mailed Top Gear
They've done it before (a comparo of old vs. new with Astons and Jags). In any case, they're more likely to get the genuine article (an E-type) than pick a Datsun to participate.
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Resurrection
O hai. Looks like I'll be making the car show next weekend Gasket matching the header: Header wrapped and sitting:
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Resurrection
Reinstalling the wiring harness Helper, and my new battery cable Hydraulic and fuel lines reinstalled, and my battery line Battery tray and lines installed in the back
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24 months of intensive restoration, and I'm almost done.
Sir, it looks so good that it brings a tear to my eye. I hope someday, that my 919 yellow will look as good.
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Resurrection
So yesterday, we found that we really should have sanded the primer down before the color coat (my initial position, but I was persuaded out of it), so we ended up having to lay a few more coats of color after wetsanding with 600. It looked like a dalmatian, there were so many spots the primer had built up unevenly. The worst I have to contend with now is a mild case of orange peel, which will knock down easily when I wetsand next weekend. I also finished re-gasketing and weather-stripping the quarter windows, started cleaning up the transmission, and cleaning/repainting the driveshaft and brake booster. New weatherstrip profile: Old weatherstrip profile: Installed: I actually did both quarter windows (since I took them out to get the car painted). I've got a bunch more weatherstrips to install.
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Resurrection
Finished welding up the holes: Finished prepping the hood: Also, rewrapped my wiring harness, and reassembled the turn signals. Laid down a couple coats of primer Laid 3 coats of color
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Resurrection
It's getting warmer once again, and that means it's nearing time for paint (the hardener works between 60-70°). I ordered the paint - a quart of acrylic enamel, the appropriate hardener and reducer, and a quart of primer/surfacer w/hardener. Last weekend's progress: The engine bay is sanded, just need to get the car down to the spray booth and sand the bottom of the hood. Also, I took the head back off the motor to get a machine shop to pull a broken stud.
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How long did your Body Shop take
7 months, exterior and body damage repair only.
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Resurrection
I used to have some bubbling on the dog legs and the hatch sill, but that all got taken care of before I got it back from the body shop. So yeah, last big spot. I'm gonna take care of it because it's there, and it'd bother me if I just painted it over.
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i got a quick question
Same for my Series II '71.
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Whats your Z plan for 2010?
Back on the road before MSA west coast nationals.
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Resurrection
Got the speedometer cable out The location of all my corrosion worries: Other fender and headlight bucket removed: Battery tray removed (drilled out the spot welds): The result of pre-submersion paint technologies (spots where the paint sprayer couldn't get): I haven't decided on replacing the battery tray yet. I've used absorbed glass mat batteries (Optima brand, sealed, no offgassing) for years now, and I may relocate it inside the cabin, probably in one of my weed compartments. If I do relocate, I'll just repair the metal where I drilled the welds out and paint over it, and keep the battery tray for someday when I want to put it back to stock.
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What did you find under your seat?
:: I found a dumpster as far away from street lights as I could find, and left it there. Then I bleached the inside of the door on the off chance I would ever have to drive the car to work (on an air force base) past the drug sniffing dogs.
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What did you find under your seat?
I found two big (~1.5kg / 3 1/4lb) bags of marijuana in the doors of my wife's then-daily driver, an '02 Infiniti G20. I found them because the window mechanism had managed to slice one of them open, and the weed was rotting, an unpleasant smell (to say the least). Nothing but an old penny in my 240Z, though. The PO (and he was the original owner) was very anal about cleanliness. I think the only reason he sold it to me was because I'm the same way.
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Resurrection
Continued disassembly in the engine bay. No more front brake hard lines, no more clutch hard line, no more clutch booster, no more brake proportioning valve, no more DS fender, no more DS headlight bucket, no more cowl or wings: Shitty images, I'll get better ones later this week, when I remember to take a decent camera, . Anyone with sage advice on pulling the brake booster? I got the nuts inside the cabin, but can't seem to get to the cotter pin to disconnect it from the pedal.
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71 240z. I need the left control arm!
umm, they're the same part, assuming you're talking about the lower control arm. Obviously tie rod ends would be different.
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Vendor Recommendation
I bought my illumina strut/spring package from shox.com. If he'd have been a Tokico dealer back when I did the suspension, I'd have bought from John Coffey at Beta. He's a great guy, and he really knows his stuff. Keep him in business!
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Yokohama Avid
Quiet, decent traction, black-walled, available in 14", and cheap. I've quite liked my set - even more once the car had struts that weren't blown out. My set is the "Touring" model, here.
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Resurrection
Perfect. I'll get a can or two from classic Datsun. I had a couple cans of his engine paint that I already used. Money's an object, obviously, but not so tight that I can't afford $30 for some paint (hell, I'll probably drop another couple hundred on the right paint for the engine bay and undercoating).
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Alarm System
Go South African-style.
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Resurrection
Thanks guys, I'm sure you all have been at that point in a project where you just want it to be over, and the positive reinforcement I get here keeps me going. Search tells me that I should refinish the rear panels using duplicolor "Graphite" wheel paint with satin clear coat. Is this correct, or is there a better color to use? Being in New Mexico, I've never seen a rear panel that wasn't either 1) sun-bleached, 2) repainted body color, or 3) both.