conedodger

That is interesting. Online fraud is currently rampant. The common claim being "honorable ignorance". There is a case of this going on here IIRC...

Just as an exercise in memory let me try to think of all you would have to change. You have an L28 motor with its associated EFI but you don't have, I assume dropping resistors, an EFI fuel tank with a return line, high pressure fuel pump, and so on... You basically would have to take a 240Z body and transplant the 280Z into it. Not simple or cheap. The L28 with carbs is a very satisfying motor for street fun.

The easiest thing to do would be to source carbs and unbolt the EFI. To go with the EFI you need to change lots of things. Not that it isn't possible or desireable it just isn't going to be a quick path to being on the road with it. I have a set of carbs that I would sell along with manifolds, linkage, air cleaners etc... I am sure others do as well and eBay is another source. Without looking at your car it is impossible to say with any accuracy but it may be as simple as unbolting the EFI stuff, bolting on the carbs dropping it in and plumbing it up.

Duh... Sorry. I think that answer is obvious.:stupid:

Greg, I have heard that because of the long crank balance is critical beyond even what we normally consider with these engines. I had heard 68K but I would call Rebello on that... The guy I knew who came up with 68K was not a pro builder. Usually the limiting factor for RPM is valve train so that is why I think balance has to be your issue.

I have them on some of my cars and not on others... An important thing to note is that using my Motiv Power Bleeder is not possible on the cars with SpeedBleeders installed.

There are some amazing roads and scenary in North Carolina... Mountains, forests, dunes along the Atlantic.

California froze the exempt year at 1975 when Arnold got into office. It had been a rolling exemption of 25 or 30 years, I forget. Now there is an assembly bill in committee that would leave the 1975 exempted but require all cars 15 years and older back to 1975 to undergo annual smog tests. As has been said, your car regardless of the sniff test would fail the visual. Keep the EFI. It isn't that hard to find the problems if you follow a systematic approach.

If I can remember correctly, there is a Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor attached to the thermostat housing. The lore used to go like this - the connection starts to get corroded or worn, whatever, the car runs fine until it warms up and then as the heat expands the connector the sensor loses its connection. This sends an infinite resistance signal to the EFI brain and the brain assumes the car is very hot and richens the mixture. You say you have replaced the CHT but did you check over the connection? The air flow meter should not need adjustment right out of the box. I know that MSA gets their AFM's rebuilt by Bret Industry in Orange and they flow bench set them. I would guess other rubuilders would do that as well... Bottom line: clean up and check all of your connections.

With the trip down I put on 1200+ Not a single complaint out of my 914 and my 11 year old now thinks his Dad is the Greatest Race Car Driver that ever lived! (his words ) I would place the car count in the hundreds. I think there were some non-registered tagalongs too!

You can check out any time you like... But you can never leave. A few Datsun participants from last weekend's Targa California. Perhaps the most fun I have had this decade.

The thing I notice about the ad that is perhaps crossing a line is the word "exact" in his description. It takes a great deal of research and effort to exactly reproduce something. The thing I notice about the car that clearly crosses a line is the use of a graphic that says BRE without permission. As for "restoration" vs. "refresh" vs. "driver" there is nothing wrong with any of these. People who do true restorations tend to be a little prickly about people doing less than that and calling it a restoration. My own cars tend to be refreshed and then driven. The magic happens when you turn them on and drive them... As for his price, I hope he gets it. That would signal a strengthening economy and that my own car is going up in value.

One of my 914 friends just took his car down to bare metal on a rotissorie and he used Rhino Liner for undercoating. Porsches of that era rust worse than Datsuns. This guy is a bodyman too... Not an opinion just an "if A then B" example...

If the DHLA is anything like the DRLA they will have an extra circuit. idles, transition, and power. Chokes are nice. These are probably better carbs than my triple Webers. Dellortos were mostly OEM carbs for Italian cars. Mine, on my 914 are from a Fiat. They also made lots of motorcycle carbs.

Back in the day.... When Carl's car was dirtier...

Carl, Very nice. I must have missed something on that trailer thread. You apparently found one? Looks like you bought new? What is it and if you don't mind what did it cost?

I'm not sure if you are aware of it, but that book Datsun 280ZX is the rarest of Z car publications. It was a Datsun promotion book sent out in late '78 I think to promote the ZX. I am looking at my copy now. I got it new. I turned 55 last Sunday. My wife took me to IHOP yesterday so I could order my first senior discounted meal. Waitress challenged me when I ordered the Senior meal and said I looked 40. My wife growled at her for flirting with me. I got into Z cars in 1976 when I bought a '76 280Z. My roommate at the University of Minnesota had an English sportscar called a TVR 2500M that he was restoring and repainting. He got me into autocrossing... I have owned several first generation cars since then but now have a second owner (me) 240Z. I am mostly a Porsche guy these days but I will always have my Z...

I have had these on every Z I have owned without problems. No real increase in effort was noted, just sharper feedback and handling. I just recently had two built for my pair of 914's out of billet aluminum. They cost me about $35 each. I made 40 of them and sold the rest to other 914 guys. I would not worry about putting another urathane donut in. It was either defective or overtorqued.

I think goof off works best on latex house paint. As has been suggested, moderate lacquer thinner on a rag and rub... I just did it yesterday to take off 3M 77 spray adhesive. No melting of plastic occured. A little bit on the rag and rub it in, it will evaporate and that will be that... Too much of it and you will rub off the texture on the panel.

What year? I just came across three of them this morning in the garage from my '78 I think...

They are plastic for sure. They appear to be intended to sit on the face of the wheel instead of being pushed through from the back. The outside diameter is just greater than 3" perhaps 3 1/8". They apparently screw into holes on the surface of the wheel. Cheap and cheesy. Free to good home. Hell, free to unwed mothers who do a lot of crack...

They are plastic for sure Arne... Sorry.

I have a set of something in the garage that came with my Z. Not sure of the diameter but they are plastic if I recall correctly. They are yours if they will fit Randy. I will check in a bit here...

Here indeed! Keep prodding your father to search that vault... Those are beautiful.

I think I have found my own solution...