conedodger

That can be done with hand tools. I own lots of air tools and find I mostly use hand tools. I would consider replacing the clutch and pressure plate as you have the engine out and it is easier than driving it 2K miles and having it go bad. Resurfacing the flywheel is not a bad idea either. Flywheels require a torque wrench but not an air torque wrench. Torque them to spec not as tight as you can...

I voted for low vin Z cars and racing history cars. It wasn't a choice but if a famous person owned a Z and it could be found and restored that might be a choice I would make as well. The attached pic isn't a Z but it is an example of what I might find interesting as a museum patron. Carl Sagan with his 914...

Again, I will have to disagree, in a way... Yes, the people who designed and built these cars intended them to be driven and enjoyed. But that was then. Perhaps they imagined the greatness they created perhaps not, more likely they were just pleased with their success but didn't imagine a following almost 40 years later. Sure, they intended that they be driven and enjoyed but if you could ask them now they might have a different opinion - this is now. I would go so far as to say probably have a much different opinion. If I build something today that is intended to be used but later it becomes historically important I would want it preserved in a museum. There are plenty of them being driven and enjoyed and this one is important historically as are probably most of the vin# under 100 no matter where they landed in the world. The owner should do what he wants with it because he owns it but I would hope that one day it ended up in the Datsun Heritage Museum as it would be a worthwhile exhibit. Am I biased? Yes probably as I was an early contributor but I think I would have a hard time just driving around in a car that was the very first of any pedigree. I would want to make sure nothing bad happened to it as you can never replace the first of anything. The guy who designed the Chrysler K car did so with the intention that it be driven and (ok, maybe not enjoyed) but your point of view reduces the Z to that level. It isn't even close. It changed everything and the lowest vin# sold should be destined for preservation of some kind.

On this I would have to disagree. Yes the first 100 cars are special but the lowest VIN registered in the US not any more special? Just another low-vin conversation piece? Well, after all - we are here to converse about these cars so to trivialize that is to trivialize this... I would say that while the first 100 are special, a car like the 13th is important, perhaps historically so. It should be restored and put in a museum. Perhaps your perspective is different owning the 26th but from where me and most of the others here are standing, this is a very important car. My car is a 73 and it sold in high volumes because of the popularity of this car...

Probably the lowest VIN# Z sold to the public in the US...

So... What news of this important early Z? You remember... It was the subject of this thread.

I think there is a Z specialist in Oakland called the Z Doctor IIRC... Do a search for ZONC which is the Z Club of Northern California. Doc Kanorowski is the tech director and he also owns the shop I am talking about...

North Hollywood Speedometer, Palo Alto Speedometer... Two I have used. Do a search for repair and restoration of guages.

Will is correct. The Comp Department steering knuckles are 10mm shorter and can be fitted to the later cars. This quickens steering and increases effort. These knuckles were simply the early ones marketed as a competition upgrade.

!!! I am a member of the Sacramento Valley MG Club. I haven't owned one in years and naturally when I did it only ran for about 30 miles over a period of 2 years but once you join their club they keep sending you the newsletter for life. Some of the recommendations are outdated. I think EOS is NLA for one...

A good Porsche engine builder, a guy who makes Porsche cylinders, and a guy who does CNC cylinder head work on Porsches got together and tested most of the currently available herd of oils that car guys are using. They found that Brad Penn has the highest zinc content of all the popularly used oils. Brad Penn is a shortening of the name Bradford Pennsylvania where the old Castrol GT refinery was located. I guess when the refinery was going to shut down it was bought out and is being operated by the old employee and management group. Testing second in this group for zinc content was Royal Purple and Swepco Synthetic. The old school synthetics could cause oil leaks but now days the synthetics contain additives to swell seals so that is uncommon. I use Brad Penn in my 914, Swepco in my 911, and Brad Penn in my Z... The 911 has very low mileage and runs considerably cooler on the Swepco synthetic. Why is Porsche test data relevant? These are all older flat tappet engines.

Ebay is the wrong place to look for appraisal information. Your appraiser will look at a lot more than that. Cars with history can bring higher value. I suspect though that in this case unless your unnamed drivers were fairly famous that effect will be limited. Z Store cars have brought very high prices. I am not so sure they deserve to be bringing higher prices than a well restored and original car but they can. It sounds like you are thinking of selling. Good luck!

Not too sure why worth is even being discussed. Is the guy looking for offers? Seems to me he has just shown it to some guys he met and let them take pictures. Perhaps the proper semantics would be the lowest VIN actually sold in the USA? No way to tell what VIN was sold first in the USA, and in any case that was probably in California no??? Is there any more to report on the car? This seems to have devolved into a critique of the US hegemony.

Very cool...

I just unbolted it, gave it a few spanks on either side at 3 and 9 OClock and it began moving forward on the shaft. Then I just gave alternating pulls to the left and right sides and off it came...

Arne is of course absolutely correct. I forget that for most guys don't need or want to pay for Hoosiers, Kumho, Yokohama R-rated rubber. My apologies. You should be good for a long time. Now I will go back to sticking my thumbnail deep into my tire rubber and smiling :stupid:

Dude! Where is your cat??? Seriously, lose the air pump.

Consider 16" wheels. It is hard and will be getting harder to find tires for 15" wheels.

In the right hands it is not terminal... Good luck and happy welding!

Isn't the 280 hood the same as the 240 until 77? I bought a 240 hood three years ago for under $200 new from the dealership.

I have two grills in great shape. I may have both signals, I have to check. Pretty sure the rest of it I don't have though... PM me an we can work out a price.

Then there is the "as long as you are in there" factor. You have the head off, you should check that it is straight and not warped. A lot of people would take the opportunity to do the valves. I have seen warped heads and blown gaskets before but they always ran. Basically a steam caliope but they ran...

I have one. I didn't want to separate it from the carbs but I will not bother with EBay either. If he still needs one contact me.

I bought my Porsche 914 from the original owner (my Z too for that matter), He bought the car from Sierra Porsche/Audi in Riverside. The car was delivered with these wheels. 914 guys call them Western wheels. They weren't particularly light. They also aren't particularly popular. The dealers took off the factory Fuchs Wheel, a forged aluminum alloy wheel to put these things on so they could upcharge the customer for "alloy" wheels. I also have the original 8 track the dealer installed. Now if I can just find that Herman's Hermits tape...

I used a guy in Salt Lake City. Art Thrane at Air Cooled Engineering or ACE. I know, I know, your car isn't air cooled but he is very good... I was able to bolt them on and balance them and go...