conedodger

He is building two cars. The race prep car will be built to SVRA rules, the street/autocross car is the one he is considering the stroker motor for.

We'll see everyone there at the November Sacramento Z Car Reunion! One week from today! Rain or shine... Bring 'em down guys!

I agree. Zinc Chromate...

Also look under the hood. An impact from below can drive the strut up so the tower is bent inside the hood area.

Lower the seat mounts. I did it in my 914. Cut and weld.

Two weeks till the November Sacramento Z Car Reunion. See the gang, see the cars, eat the donuts! See you there!

Kumusta ka Patrick? Mabutay? I don't think they come with instructions. It is pretty easy but kind of tedious and slow. You need to get some contact cement. Lots of it. Remove the existing interior and clean everything up as best you can. The transmission tunnel can be challenging because of the insulation and the contact not wanting to stick. Try to go cover a bit of the adjoining sections, as these may be exposed after all the trim is in and on. There are cardboard pieces that go over the shock towers. I put these on with some double face tape. Then really it is just about using the contact cement. You paint it on both surfaces and wait until it tacks up, then carefully put it in place and apply some down force to the surface to get the two surfaces to adhere to each other. I recently got a can of water based contact by accident. It is white instead of amberish. I was not pleased with it. You probably will not find the water based stuff as the PI isn't as regulated. If you need anything else, let me know. I can bring it in in a bulikbayan. We come over about every other year. My wife is from Lipa in Batangas. I taught at the University of Santa Tomas for a time...

What's the VIN number Tiffy... It is a series one car. Where did you move to from Stockton if you think you moved to Northern California? Stockton IS Northern California right??

Check your grounds...

I would have to have a set to work with to know cost but, I don't seek profit in this. Mark and I are driving a business in Atlanta crazy with the Porsche rubber parts. He wants to be an exclusive distributor and mark the stuff up like crazy, then he commits to 100 and backs out and only wants 20. We gave up on him. This is just an aside to Marks normal manufacturing business. He makes architectural grade stuff. For example, a Porsche 914 front targa top seal which costs $400 - Mark makes and sells for $169.00. That is cost plus a little to cover the reverse engineering time. The real plan would be to talk Les Cannaday into having his source make them. He has a source that is about ready to pick up where Precision left off. Someone call Les...

Well, if someone stands up and says yup, I have a set of new old stock rubber for the bumpers squirrelled away on a shelf, I will use it to reverse engineer - give it back unmolested and give them a free set of the reproduction. Anyone? Beuller?

I got a warehouse. I have a lift. We can store cars and parts and work on our own cars. I am looking for peeps to share the cost. 1400 square feet is about a 6 car garage space.

Only 17 days till the November Sacramento Z Car Reunion! Let's get together and have some early winter fun! I got one of my cars running and the Z is not far behind.

Correction! I re-read the contract and called the lease-agent this morning. We can work on our own cars but cannot work for hire, ie: operate an automotive business. And guess what? I have a hydraulic scissors lift!

I just rented a warehouse in Gold River. Total space is 1400 square feet. I need 400 - 500 square feet. That means I have space for 4 -5 more cars or parts. Anyone looking for space? I am just looking to mitigate my costs. We cannot work on cars on site... storage only.

Jim, I need them too. If you find new ones or very good condition I can reverse engineer and manufacture them.

Who's in? Will the usual suspects show up? Has Bill M. gone to the dogs? Come on down to the November Sacramento Z Car Reunion and get your donut on!

Don't be caught without a donut in your hand on November 20th! The Sacramento Z Car Reunion is on!!!

Get ready for the Turkey!!! October was great! About 20 people in spite of the rain. It was great to see you all but now we have to do it again... Hopefully better weather this time out. The November Sacramento Z Car Family Reunion is Saturday November 20th, 9am to noonish. See you there!

The link Dave has posted is the link where you can download them for free.

All available as download without the $50...

You have to break the fuel line at some point and put a gauge in-line. I think if memory serves the FSM also calls for a check of the quantity pumped in a minute as well...

The Water Temperature sensor or Cylinder head temperature sensor as I said before richens the mixture when it senses the head is hot. Since it is a resistance signal, full resistance means the head is hot and the ECU is responding accordingly. Probably a bad connection or a brake in the wire.

You should be able to put the AFM model number found on the side of it in an ad in the classified section here. If a guy named Daniel Parsignault contacts you, I have never gotten anything from him that didn't turn out to be near perfect so trust him. I (and Mr. Zed Head) are not saying the AFM isn't bad, it could well be. It's just that it really doesn't have a function during start and idle. Enough air bypasses it to start and idle. A couple things that could make it rich and not able to start, one is if that wire from the cylinder head temp sensor found on the thermostat housing is disconnected or internally broken or if the sensor itself has gone bad. This tells the 'brain' that the engine is overheated and it calls for a 'full rich' path on the algorithm. A second would be if the injectors themselves are leaking or stuck in the open position. It doesn't take more than say one or two of them sticking to have a car that doesn't start as it just pours fuel in. What does your fuel pressure do after you turn your key off? It should stay constant. If it drops you would have problems with hot start even if you could get it started and running. It sounds like you have gotten a hold of a manual which is good. The problem is that although you find one problem, it doesn't mean you fix that and the car runs. EFI adds many levels of variables which can complicate figuring out what is wrong. The benefit to doing the more complicated job of figuring it out is that EFI cars are very drivable. This means they start easily, get good mileage, are happy no matter what altitude you drive to. As for Brett industries, try calling 411 from your cell phone and when they ask for city and state say Orange, CA. That should get you the number. These are the guys that supply rebuilt AFM to Motorsport Auto and many others. For injector cleaning and balancing I recommend RC Engineering or Marren (sp?). Check the back of Grassroots Motorsports for their contact info as they are both longtime advertisers. I have some spare injectors you can have, in case some of yours are bad. You send them your injectors and they rebuild them and clean them. Then they balance the flow. Makes for a very smooth running engine when you get them back and in. Cost the last time I did it was about $30/ injector so not dirt cheap.

It depends on your available equipment too. I purchased the cover kit from Classic Datsun Motorsport and that was the extent of the $ involved. I have a bead blaster so I took apart the assemblies on both sides and after bead blasting I refinished them. If you don't have a bead blaster, then that adds to the $ involved. Mine are red and now look like new. Yours should look good and it looks like they sit low enough. I wonder about that side pod thing on them though. Not a lot of room for it.