conedodger

Oh Oh!!! I hope you used the sports page for mine! I want to read the whining about how my Vikings crushed your Seahawks!!!:laugh:

Quick look today. The pictures are an ok representation. Interior and engine detail are not consistent with the paint. Paint is ok but not show... This is a driver and probably worth 5 - 8K

I think dealer markup is usually double on a used car so they probably have $5K in it. I have seen BRE tribute cars here in Sac for years. One is very nice and he owns a 510 that is just as tasty.

Anyone wanting a PPI, I live about 5 miles from that dealership... Outside it looks great. Inside could use a refresh.

No, not a misprint. Let's start with the newly built L28 with the Nissan Competition Department flat top pistons. This engine had not had its first oil change. That went for over $5000 as I recall. Then there was the LSD R 200 and the transmission that had just been rebuilt. The Ground Control Suspension all the way around brought in a pretty penny. Panasports, R rated rubber that was new, Euro turn signals front and rear. My situation is clearly different than Mr. Cutlass. I had thousands of dollars in my car and the reciepts to prove it. The car had just had a $5000.00 paint job! I also had an appraisal that said the car was worth $13,500.00. California AAA challenged my appraisal and brought in an independent appraiser who came up with $14,000.00. This caught them totally off guard. I agreed to this amount and wanted to keep the car. They placed the salvage value on the car at $700.00 and I got a check for $13,300.00. I still have parts from the car. I just came across a brand new throttle position sensor and a cylinder head sensor yesterday. It had a new plastic fan and a new fan clutch which are now sitting on a shelf in the garage. What is a new Datsun Comp Department Harmonic Balancer worth? Got one of these too! These are all the parts that are still sitting on the shelf. The engine and suspension were the big ticket items. There is definately money in parting out a vintage car. You have to live in the right place though so your neighbors don't get irritated. Mr. Cutlass, your best shot at this point is to try and prove that your car was worth more than $600.00 and that you were not 40% at fault. 60% of $1000.00 is $600.00 but if you let them apply the $600 value you get what? $360.00!!! What did you pay and when did you pay it? What have you spent making it better? Insurance companies want to settle and quickly. One of your best tactics is just don't. Settle that is. Don't avoid talking to them, just tell them their offer is just not good enough. Tell them you think your car is worth $5000.00 and you don't accept that you had any percentage of fault. They will start to move in a more acceptable direction if you just refuse to settle.

I am not sure what kind of check my bank sends out. I thought it was a counter check which is the same as a cashiers check. I am certainly willing to make up the difference.

The first one is the only one that is really rude. The rest are just misinformed in their own right. People look at the world through a lens that is their own culture. It isn't necessarily intended to be rude, it is just all they have to work with. The clash comes when others who are more well traveled or simply more aware of a global existence challenge the view of the person who sees things through the lens of their small world.

No they can total the car... You need to establish value and quickly. They will come to you with an offer and it will be quite low. When this happened to me they offered $1700.00 and I ended up getting $14,000.00 less $600 salvage value. I then stripped and sold off everything of value on the car even the dented hulk. I made another $20,000.00 off of that. But without some evidence, arguable evidence - you are pretty much stuck with their offer. Look to comparable sales, auctions, you can even have an appraiser look at the car in it's current condition to establish it's preaccident condition. Don't be fooled though, they can and certainly will total your car.

In the Porsche world, no one would dream of using a Pertronix unit without a set of points in the glove box. I am not sure exactly why, but they seem to leave people stranded regularly. I love my Mallory on my 914 but they are the best possible solution there if you aren't going to aftermarket EFI with crank triggered ignition. I am not at all sure that is the case with Z cars, though I trust Carl's assessment because it is Carl. I would love to see the same performance data I have seen with the Mallory and the 914. The Euro distributor is elegant because it is new and stockish... Much of our collective ignition problems are related to age and wear I suspect.

Very nice E! Other forums I frequent would put that answer in a classic file!

I just ordered a check sent direct from my bank which should arrive at your door the 23rd. Thanks for this effort.

'70 something Chevrolet Vega Wagon. I was an undergraduate in Minnesota and it was my winter beater. It started throwing off clutch cables ever week. I just had to make it through the semester so at $40 something a pop plus a half hour under the car I would change them as fast as they would break. Turned out the body was rusted and cracked and it would flex and snap the line. Got the car for free but with all those clutch cables...

My diff doesn't clunk but since it is a Z, it will... Count me in:classic:

It's done with an ohm meter. I haven't done it in years but this could be your problem at idle. Remove your EGR and clean it up too. The water temperature sensor sends a resistence signal as well and if it is all gummed up it could tell the ECU your engine is running hot, causing a rich condition.

The final Trackmasters Event of the year is Friday the 18th at Mazda Laguna Seca Raceway... This event is short about 20 entries at this point in time and is looking like a great opportunity to attend a very lightly attended event. That means more track time for you and plenty of good instruction if you are new... If Trackmasters doesn't make their break even number, they are going to open up registration to a motorcycle group which will cut down on track time etc... Registration is $210 or $215 if you use Paypal. See the Trackmasters Racing website to register.

17 years ago when I left Minnesota I would have said that Fall is a terrible time to sell and suicide as far as the potential price you could get is concerned. People are thinking about battening down the hatches and getting ready for winter to blow in. Now, we have the internet and sites like this. There are several ways of listing it and as long as you stay firm on your price you may well get what you want or need from it. Good luck!

There is really alot to the bushing replacement that is important to consider. It has been mentioned that the black graphite is better than the red poly and this is true for a couple reasons. One, the graphite lubricates and gets rid of squeeks and two, they can be honed to 'fit' them to the application. Suspension travel is extremely important and can be the cause of the harshness that some complain of. If the suspension binds, and this can happen with any of the commonly available bushings you have limited suspension travel and the bump gets transmitted to the driver. I am not generally a big fan of rubber bushings but they do restore the original ride feel. The red poly bushings tend to gall when you try to fit them. Get the graphite!

Mine seem fine. I had them tuned on a dyno with EGT, CHT, and exhaust gas analyzer. Runs very nicely. With no chokes though, they can be a bit bitchy on cool mornings like today.

A guy I know from the Porsche world rolled a Porsche 914-6 at the Targa 2 years ago. It was basically end-over-end and most would have walked away from the carcass and gotten a lift home. They hammered it back out and were back in the race. The car is now fixed and at least outwardly looks great...

Tried a little WD-40 this morning and it appeared to work. I will get after it with a vengence on Monday... My next free moment...

Beandip is correct but I would go even further. Check with your painter to see how long you should let that paint cure before covering it, washing it, polishing etc... I waited 3 weeks. I actually use a 2 Porsche 911 covers. One is soft and more of a dust cover, the other is weatherproof. I put the weatherproof one over the softer one.

There is a good shop in Palo Alto that specializes in Porsche restoration paint but does collision too. Scott something or other... I will get you a name soon. Yeaman Autobody is the name... Scott Yeaman is the owner.

There is no wax on the paint at all... I painted it a year or so back and I have been reassembling as I get the new interior stuff. That way the paint can fully cure. Outside, with the exception of the tape it looks like a new car. Inside, not so much... I have a new dash with new instruments, new seat covers, new carpet, new vinyl interior plastic, new everything except door panels which I will get from MSA or CDM.

Someone (and yes, I know who) thought it would be cute to leave me a note that said "drive me" on the door of my Z under the car cover with packing tape to attach it. Now, I have packing tape VERY adhered to the paint on my passenger door. I tried adhesive remover and that got some of it but I still have about 3 square inches that just will not come off... How about a heat gun? I am at a loss. What do you guys think?

Brilliant! Shower curtain... I went to the autobody supply store today and they had dum -dum, the black gooey stuff you stick it on with but no vapor barrier. I will get a shower curtain tomorrow... Brilliant and simple! Not to mention cheap...