projecteye

ok - I took the ign. switch off the back of the ignition housing. no signs of burns or melt marks, however, I stuck a screwdriver in the slot to check the action and when you go from LOCK to OFF it has a nice click similarly when you go from OFF to ACC it clicks nicely all the way through START but when you come back around counterclockwise (to shut the car down) it does not click at all from OFF to LOCK in fact it goes past where the arrows line up too far and never clicks into position. see photo attached . I think the switch mechanics are shot.I don't think you can open it up either.. this most likely explains why it is not shutting off and continues to drain the battery. guess I will order a new one. man what a pain in the arse it is unscrewing that part. can't wait to put in the new one. I need to buy a mining hat and a couple of extra prosthetic arms with bionic fingers. I hope I am right this time I just want to take her out on a nice fall cruise... anyone ever run into this before?

see photo

see photos

see photos there is a blue wire that comes out of a quick disconnect and goes no where do you know what this is for? can this be my problem?

when I turn the ignition key from OFF to Lock the car basically starts back up. It's like it just doesn't ever turn off.... what could be causing this?

I will try these solutions....since I recently opened up the steering column to do something else.... perhaps I loosened something. ...I will check these screws that hold the switch. will let you know thanks

what does that mean to the lay person of electronics? how is it corrected?

what would cause the iginition to NOT turn off when the key is turned to the OFF or LOCK position. HELP!!!

What would cause the ignition to not shut off when in the OFF or LOCK position? the battery's-a-draining..... HELP!!

I recently disconnected a blue wire from the ignition column and cannot remember where it goes to. My ignition now does the following: When turned from OFF to LOCK I hear a click similar to the click you hear when you go from OFF to ACC. the dash brake light comes on (at the speedometer) and basically drains my battery. Does anyone know where this blue wire goes to? Is this a ground wire? also,the ignition is not original but it is a Nissan. thanks HP

Well- here's the skinny- because the cable snapped at the release mechanism the best advice was to remove the hood hinge bolts and prop the hood open and then unscrewing the hinge pin from the hood. this was not easy!! you are basically not able to see what you are doing just feel around for the bolt. coupled with the fact that the bolts were fairly rusty and dry this was a royal pain the arse. Also you cannot get a ratchet in between the hood and the mechanism so you have to use a closed wrench and constantly re-adjust the wrench with the bolt head. going at it from under the car was just impossible for me. there is no way to get at it with any degree of accuracy. Nor did I have the proper tools. I replaced the cable with a brand new Nissan part from MSA for $37.00 with shipping. My advice is that anyone who has not replaced the cable yet do so immediatley.... thanks for everyone's help.

Just pulled it and the cable snapped ;hood is locked any ideas on how to open? I do not have a lift. HELP!!

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ok- I give up... how the &$#@ does the radio get back into the dash without extensive heater face plate surgery? anyone ever attempt this?...

Enrique and everyone- problem solved; there was quick disconnect that was disconnected intow places. One next to the hazard switch thus completeing the rear taillight circuit and one behind the stereo that was disconnected which engaged the rear stop lights. thanks to all for your help this room is the best!!!