Zealous

For what it is worth, I recently had to source new stub axles and got them from Z-barn for about $50 each plus shipping. However, I later got lots of replies to my WTB ad and some people had them for free lying around, especially over at hybrid Z. Might be an option if you need it. I have used the 280zx nut and have not had any problems with it since then.

+1 bad ground was chasing that round myself recently

I use 3-in-1 multipurpose oil you can find it at the local hardware store (I got mine at lowes) and comes in a handy little bottle with a tip for squirting it in there.

I drive mine at least once a week when it is not raining and/or being worked on. Mostly for fun drives. I bought it to drive, learn more about cars and mostly have fun. Of course it gets more use if I take to track or go on a long trip with someone.

Damn I was really hoping for a solution as mine are very tired and all the braiding is falling to dust off them. I checked over at Hybridz and they refer here

A few questions: Where these ever produced? I need to replace my master vac hoses for the series 1. I tried Nissan and they are NLA as many of you know. I do not need the braided type or fancy part just need reinforced hose that is the correct fit. What does everyone else do? Is there a generic solution?

Started cleaning polishing the carbs still a long way to go and learning the ins and outs of polishing. Left is sanded, right is just cleaned with carb cleaner.

Hey All, Thanks for the advice and help, I ended up getting the Koyorad Racing Radiator part number R022352. It is a gorgeous and amazing looking radiator much higher quality than the ebay champion. It fit in nicely but again there was a noticeable twist and far less clearance at the bottom, although less pronounced since this radiator was straight. So I decided enough was enough and went over the car with measurements and the spirit level. I know the car was hit on left side at one point in its life because the lower circle in the radiator support frame is no longer a circle. After an hour or two of hammer and dolly work I go the the support frame more straightened, it is not perfect but no longer bowed, warped or sticking out. Then I went back and installed the Koyorad which was great and easy to do, I used rubber grommets to isolate the radiator but I think Ill get some rubber stripping just to further isolate it. Here are some pics of the install for others that are interested in this product. Note it takes a non-standard radiator cap that you also need to buy, koyo sells a high pressure cap (I bought a lower pressure one at the local NAPA). Also you need to modify a lower radiator hose for the upper hose as the OEM upper hose will not work or get a long pre-molded 90 degree hose. It is raining for the week here but once I get out driving on the open road again Ill report back on the performance.

Thanks for all the support guys and advice. Yeah it is really close for comfort. There is some distorting of the radiator frame from what looks like an old accident but after measuring it is minor and I think I can easily bang some of it out although not at 1130 at night the neighbours might not be happy. I think after measuring I have an extra wide core as it is 3 inches wide and then a bit more for the tabs, not much. I measured a lot and it looks like the radiator itself with the mounting tabs is not exactly straight either. All this stacking up I think is causing the problem but any small gains I make now are negligible when I add in a bit of rubber isolation. Yeah I don't think the motor will move that much at all, I was more worried about the fan and also trying to slip on and off new fan belts, small movements during heavy cornering, etc. Thanks ezzzzzz yeah as I mentioned this is without the rubber isolation I plan to do this it is just a test fit before install. I think I am going to return this one and buy the koyo, I got a good deal from a local shop here and am going to go with that. By the time I buy electric fans, the thermo switch and the radiator I may as well have bought the koyo which is much higher quality and will be one less thing for me to worry about taking it to the track.

Thanks Will, That is exactly my very big concern. Anyone had experience with a 3 row and know if it is my car or simply the radiator being too thick?

Hey All, I need opinions and checking on my conservatism. I just test fitted a new Aluminium radiator one of the many from ebay, Champion 3 row. I had originally purchased a two row as I was worried about the fan, but they did not have any and sent me a 3 row instead. After test fitting here are the pictures. I think the fan is way too close for my liking if the engine happens to lurch forward but I wanted to hear from you guys. It looks like my cars radiator frame may not perfectly straight along with the radiator mounting flanges. At the top you can see I have around 25mm (1 inch) clearance on the fan blades but at the bottom this decreases to 13mm (1/2 inch). Is this far enough? I think not but wanted to hear from the guys in the know. This still does not include any rubber isolators which will reduce the gap a little but not much. Should I try hammering the radiator frame to see if I can improve the bottom clearance? As I bolt in and tightened up the radiator it looks like one of the flanges is bending backwards to match the contour of the support. Or is it time to return it? Or buy electric fans? Kinda wishing I had just paid the bit extra and got the koyo radiator at this point. This radiator is 3 inches wide and the old one used to be 2.5 inches. The old one didn't have any clearance problems. Any advice and help as always is greatly appreciated.

I try and get most of my stuff from various Nissan Dealers: Courtesy Nissan: http://www.courtesyparts.com/default.php Nissan Parts CC:http://www.nissanparts.cc/ I use this website (http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/tabid/1543/Default.aspx) to find part numbers now as it is easier than searching through the pdfs of the part CD unless I need to double check something. I order from Nissan Parts CC as they have better prices than Courtesy will look all round the US for the parts for me and are faster than courtesy since they are closer to California. I have found that the black dragon stuff often is lesser or the same quality as MSA. MSA has great customer service but often over charge for parts you can get direct from Nissan for cheaper, similar to ebay. I would suggest checking Nissan directly first then MSA. MSA is fantastic for aftermarket parts and of course a great supportor of CZCC. However shop around and use search as some of the smaller players classic datsun, bonzai, z car source. Have better quality or prices than MSA on certain items. But if you want a one stop shop go with MSA just order OEM from Nissan to save $$. Also think about the support MSA and other suppliers give to this great website and community, as without a community the NLA or hard to find parts would disappear.

I would be interested if you could work out the transponder solution. However, to answer your question the $170 sounds more than fair to me. Great work and I hope you sell lots of them.

You guys and girls might like 'The Technique of Motor Racing' written in 1959 by Piero Taruffi http://www.amazon.com/Technique-Motor-Racing-Driving/dp/0837602289 Talks about motor racing especially with the old cars and even when the brake pedals used to be on the right It also goes into the details on driving, taking, corners and some of the mathematics.

These look like the FutoFab control arms http://futofab.com/ Is that correct gnosez?

Bob, Do you remember the number of plugs and the sizes that you needed? I am trying to find this information at the moment.

Busy few weeks so far: Pulled old radiator and drained coolant Pulled inspection cover cleaned and began polishing Pulled old thermostat to flush system Cleaned and polished thermostat cover Mounted rear speakers so they don't move when braking hard (no thanks to PO that pre-drilled the holes wrong last time that was a PITA) Purchased parts for Series 1: Poly bushing kit Poly bump stops Master vac hoses Rubber TC bushing Cleaned and polished spray nozzles Purchased washer motor replacement tubing and tees Purchased new shocks and springs for series 2 Purchased new fasteners for both Zeds Unpacked new radiator have to bend one of the tabs back, test fit fill and see if leaks and then, polish and paint logo on

I am not an expert but I was actually looking into this myself the other night as I would start out as a novice. I think what might push you out of the stock class are: Bushings (if non oem rubber) Springs Tyres (sizes matter here) Your shocks are ok according to the rules for stock These would push you into street touring or street prepared depending on the tyre lists and springs. Not sure what you are running. Let me know what you find out as I am interested in running autocross this year too.

Depends on the sanctioning body. Check out the solo rules at SCCA: http://www.scca.com/hub.aspx?hub=3 Rules are here: http://www.scca.com/contentpage.aspx?content=61

Congratulations and all the best, so many things to read and learn I am still reading.

Thanks for all the great info, Ill wait to hear back from RoostMonkey as I already sent of the funds. Sorry to mods if I bumped this thread and caused any raucous.

Hey Dave, Any chance this might happen again? I have not heard back from Roostmonkey and it seems like a few people here would be interested? I am just sorry I missed this last time.

Hey all, sorry to revive the thread. I am just wondering if anyone put all this information together in a useful format, with part numbers and lengths on the fasteners. I am having a tough time sourcing 10.9 metric fasteners in person and need to order online and therefore I would like to order all in one go and make sure I cover everything. If someone has already done this it would save me a lot of time and effort for wrenching rather than sitting in front of the computer. But if I have to put it together I will and will post whatever I come up with. Here is a list of sources (in particular order) I have found or have been recommended for anyone searching here for fasteners / nuts / bolts / washers, etc. Especially in the high grade ISO 10.9 Class and JIS fasteners: Allen's Fasteners: http://www.allensfasteners.com/ Bolt Depot: http://www.boltdepot.com/ Nuts and Bolt.com: http://www.nutsandbolts.com/ Clips and Fasteners: http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ Bel-Metric: https://www.belmetric.com/ Fastenal: http://www.fastenal.com/ (small and large quantities, yellow zinc finishes and JIS) Metric and Multistandard components: http://www.metricmcc.com/ (large quantities) Datsun Spirit: http://www.datsunspirit.com/ (Eiji apparently has kits) Z Car Creations: http://www.zcarcreations.com/ (Stainless Steel Kits - excludes suspension due to strength not class 10.9) Of course many are still available from Nissan, hence the reason I ask if a complete list was ever put together including part numbers. I am sure there are probably others but these are either recommended here on CZCC or HybridZ.

Antenna? Maybe since it below the stereo, this is just a guess though

Phew, I was worried I had got the part number wrong. Yeah I looked at just the thermostats and it is about the same price with the gaskets so I decided I should try and get the gasket. Thanks Gary, that is good advice. Ill probably replace anything that needs doing, I am replacing the thermostat for when I replace the radiator may as well do preventative maintenance before I take the car to the track again.