Zealous

There are lots of discussion of this on many of the Z car forums, like Travel'n Man I also get tired of reading after awhile. Oil is kind of a personnel thing. Find one that works for you and go with, comes down to cost, previous experience, research and peace of mind. I use Valvoline Vr-1 for the engine, after reading a few things I picked this and have stayed with it. Is it better? Who knows, but I feel comfortable running it and I am happy to pay the price. You really did open a can of worms, you will never get 'the best oil' you will only get the best oil for that person that replies. You can also use UOA (Used Oil Analysis) and see which one is working better for your engine after a few changes, too much hassle and dollars for me.

Great to hear, thanks once again for all your time and effort. I know it wasn't easy and never is to organise a big group buy.

I came across this thread and thought of this discussion. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36331 Not sure if the problem is related but there is some good advice in the thread that might give you a fresh perspective.

Yeah, search for clock. There are many ways to fix it but it is pretty standard the clock is only right twice a day so don't worry if that is the case. Definitely check everything else as suggested above.

Also it is only a real Z car if the clock doesn't work

I purchased a set of Yokohama Avs es100 from tire rack and loved them they are fantastic but are an 'ultra high performance' tyre and can be slippery in the wet even with a L24. These cost a little more than your numbers, but the grip is great through twistiy roads. I have not autocrossed her as you plan to do. I liked tire rack cause they have a huge selection and can send the tyres directly to the mounting place. The mounting place will probably only charge a little per tyre to mount and balance. My 2 cents

Yeah looks good for the price based on location and the photos, but check all the common z things. Those two mechanics going with you should also be very helpful. Shame about the sunroof and they cut up the lower rear panel for the double exhaust. The black spray underneath the rear of the car also seems weird to me as it is not a full undercoat and just looks like it was sprayed over everything (exhaust, fuel tank, diff, suspension, etc), hopefully it is not hiding rust or other damage. Like any car check, brakes, shocks, bushing, seals, bearings and most importantly previous accident damage. All these things end up costing money and time and in cars this old most likely something needs replacing. If the owner has taken care of it and done lots of work as it looks (repaint, engine swap, rear spoiler, etc) then he should have a history with him, so check through that to see what was replaced and when. There are still plenty of Z cars out there do not rush in like I and so many have made the mistake of doing before. If it is not right walk away and keep looking for other cars. Patience is the best thing, my second Z is night and day to my first one and it came from shopping and waiting. Good luck.

Welcome to the board, great to have another Z car fan. The people here are very friendly & helpful. There is a huge wealth of information. Search is your friend, this questions is asked many times and there have been some great guides of what to look for written previously. See these links as a start but reading and research will save you heartache in the future. Scroll down to "Buying A Z Car-tips" http://www.zhome.com/ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34770 http://www.practicalclassics.co.uk/buyingguide.php?sid=540&page=1 http://www.motortrend.com/classic/roadtests/c12_0511_instant_expert_1970_1973_datsun_240z/index.html I have read some of these before and re-found them in 10 seconds with google "240z buyers guide". The one picture looks great but does not tell much. Call me skeptical but the statement of no body rust what so ever is a common thing in Z advertisements and by owners that most of time turn out not to be true, whether by deception or not. I learn't the hard way. Unless the car has been refreshed, all the rust fixed recently, or it has been hidden away for almost forty years I highly doubt that it is 'rust free'. Best of luck in your search but do not let the excitement take over common sense and judgement. My best advice is to take someone who has worked on Z cars before, perhaps a member near you, with you to have a look and show all the common trouble area. I know I wish I had on my first Z. Look forward to seeing you in your new Z when you find the right one.

Thanks Greg, I really appreciate you taking the time to update the community. Hope to see you there if I can free up that weekend.

Good luck for today, I am looking forward to hearing about it after. Hopefully you some insights, experience and tips for other new people wanting to test their cars out on the track.

Welcome, I like the Jag, always liked classic Jags

I believe the morning light advert they are talking about is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqdWXCendHs

Congrats, looks very clean and a great place to start. Koalia & BTF/PTM: I also have an orange '72 that was lime green, guess it was really popular at the time or there was big discount on orange paint for lime green cars

I would like to go unfortunately I have a Rescue Scuba Diver Training class that day,so I will not be able to make it. Please keep me informed or add to me to a mailing list for future meets like this.

Thanks Arne, A fantastic job you did! Mine arrived in the mail but will have to wait until new glass for the install, too many chips and the seals need doing. I am leaning towards the Datsun though it is really growing on me

Count me still in Arne

Arne, I would like one of the '240-Z' if still possible? Cheers JC

You might be better off trying to source another head such as the p90 instead of switching the hydraulic gear out for solid lifters. Depends what your reason is for doing this is?

Unfortunately, if I remember correctly I had to make a new account. mperdue's suggestion is also a good idea. If you know the sizes of the bolts and don't care about OEM then you could order stainless steel or other types of bolts dependent on strength from places such as: www.boltdepot.com

You should buy the club CD it has the part numbers and I use it often. List every screw and bolt here would take a considerable amount of time.

Glad to hear it all worked out

Part numbers Bonzi Lon stated are correct you need to order 2 as they do not come as a pair. Your welcome Jack T

Like always I have slowly learned that what might appear to be rust free at first often isn't. My best advice and something I would do now is wait to find the exact Z you are looking for with many of the mods already done and a great body. Z's are cheaper now and you can save a lot of $$$$ by picking someones project where lots of the work has already been done. Otherwise you will be spending big $$$ on rust repair and chasing all the little missing parts as many have already stated in this forum.

Welcome aboard Thor! Great to have you here. Definitely want to see the picture of the car and mods.

I know you can buy from Nissan a battery holder with drain tube and that should give you maybe a 1/4 of an inch and help drainage for later rust. Then under that I would use some plastic. Careful not to use foam or other materials that will trap moisture.