Zealous

I bought some from courtesy nissan awhile back and they still had plenty in stock and if I remember were cheaper than MSA. IMHO may as well get dealer blades. Ill dig up the part numbers when I get home.

I have purchased the DVDs they are a little more but worth it for skipping chapters and watching on laptop while working on the car.

Just to close out the thread. Problem solved. Dave does really amazing high quality work!!!! The T/S and combination switches look so good, are tight and work perfectly! Only problem is they look better than the steering column cover now I guess the next thing to get from Dave is the LED upgrade Looks like someone wrongly replaced the 3 wire bulb socket with a 2 wire on my drivers side. Does anyone know where you can buy new bulb sockets that can be wired into the rear harness?

I think I remember looking it up at Courtesy Nissan (http://www.courtesyparts.com/) about a month or so ago and they quoted a price if you search for the part number and they seemed to have it in stock maybe you can ring them to check. I'd have to wait to get home to get part number and price and they had option of no holes or with holes if I remember correctly.

Should be able to make it to 180000 without a rebuild I have heard up to 200000 miles but there could be many reasons for the bad cold start. Perhaps the best way to tell is wear and tear on the chassis and interior. Look at the quality of the bushings and whether they have been replaced. Looking under a car is very useful to tell age. Best thing to do would be to get a "Z expert" out to check the car. I know having owned mine for 7 months or so I now know what to look for exactly and where the problems are.

Yeah I noticed this show a few months back and it is quite good. Includes a good variety of unique cars, only problem is most are outside of my price range haha In some shows they even show them fixing and restoring some, although at this point they seem to be repeating a lot at least on my Comcast.

Perfect thank you! I knew someone out there could help

Hey All, I have searched all over the forums and no such luck. Not sure if this has been asked before but could someone tell me what the original colour of the surround ring for the ignition cylinder, the one that slides over it to create the curved lip. I looked at Kats' pictures to try and tell but hard to be sure if was black or aluminium? Mine had a poor finish which looks like black over spray and I want to refresh it with the correct colour or finish if it was just metal. In case it is different dependent on years I have a 1971 Series 1 240Z.

sorry for the short hi-jack, Jbraden, Can you share with us what you have found to be the best options of all that you have tried so myself and others will not go through this process? It will probably save me a lot of time and coin Cheers JC

srbigbutt, Thanks for the tip, it was one of the first things I checked but always best to start with easy stuff before tearing things apart. Part of the reason I posted was to find if it was a simple thing I had missed before I started chasing every single wire down. A good scotch bright will clean up corrosion and then just fix the spring and you should get good contacts. However, your problem should only be for a single bulb and so the other should compensate. I know I have read that people recommend di-electric grease to prevent further corrosion. My problem is the all the brake bulbs on the drivers side are intermittent. That is what led me to a ground problem, but thanks to Dave and 240ZX I have found out it is definitely the T/S switch. T/S always felt loose and ticker occasionally did not sound so maybe Ill kill two birds with 1 stone. I just need to find time to take it out and have a look and send to Dave for TLC.

I also have had people at the parts counter of Nissan dealership look as if I was crazy not knowing what I was talking about. I then gave a list of part numbers (I knew still existed) and they fumbled on the keyboard only half trying and then telling me in an oh so superior voice behind her desk "none that I can see, are you sure these are correct part numbers?". After she followed that up with look as if I was an idiot, I decided best to just leave and never go back there again in my life. I'll take my business to Courtesy Nissan where I can still get lots of needed bits and pieces without the rudeness.

Hybridz.org is perhaps a better option for performance upgrades they even have an L6 dedicated section: http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=86 If you want to keep it in the early Z family then a 280zx turbo motor is probably your best bet for good horsepower at a reasonable price in L6 motor variant.

Thanks Dave, I found out it is in T/S switch that has always been a little loose and flakey so if the brake light goes out all I have to do is put the indicator on for a quick blip and its back. Any ideas how I can do a quick fix for tomorrow? I used dust off so far to clean contacts of dust but I guess the corrosion and other problems are still there. It will have to wait to strip down and clean till I have more time. For others who come across my problem in the forum search here are some good links for information and solutions: Rebuilding Combination Switch http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17688 Combination Switch rebuild http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23325 Other rebuild and repair http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23266 I could do this but since mine need a rebuild I think I will go with another one of Dave's magnificent solutions. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24304 Dave thank you so much and PM sent

Good recommendation a friend gave me is to drive it for 2 months with pen and paper and note everything wrong or out of place. Make a list of to do's and then budget up how much it will cost to get done and work from there. Helps to bring the dreams to ground and also plan out the mods

Thanks Dave much appreciated Ill give it a go when I get home. This year I want to fix all these niggling problems for piece of mind. Ill keep you updated and I might need your services again for combo T/S switch

Just want to check that I explained appropriately, as I think I confused tail light and brake light in the original post: * The indicators work fine * The driving tail lights work fine * But the drivers side BRAKE light is intermittent Would the problems with the switch you mention still pertain to the driver side only brake light cutting in and out? I would find it weird that it would be at the light/ combo switch if the passenger side brake light works fine but the drivers is intermittent. This is why I am thinking the wiring and grounding might be at fault... But again I am at a loss after trying a few times in the past and thinking I fixed the problem only to have a buddy at a later date say drivers brake light is out. *******Warning Stupid Electrical Question*************** How do I go about checking the grounds in the rear area?

Hey, I have been having an intermittent problem and not sure how to fix and wanted to get some input from you guys to see if there is an easy fix? I have an intermittent rear tail light on the drivers side. Basically I changed out all the bulbs and made sure I had the correct 1157s where required. I then checked the wires and looked good to me except looks like previous owner spliced some of the wires together as I know the car was rewired at some point in the past. Both rear brake lights were then working. Recently the problem came back and the drivers side cut out (but it might have been occurring the whole time as I can not see the tail lights) and then later was working again. Even got pulled over by the bored Mountain View Police and was told the drivers brake light cut out at one traffic light and then came back on at the next. I looked last night leaving from GFs place and could not get the driver brake light to come back. Decided to drive as is and check again when I got home, low and behold it was working again. I am thinking it might be a bad ground. Tonight I plan on cleaning the bulb sockets and making sure the spliced wires are clean and have good contacts. Other than that I have no idea. I need to do my CA licence test tomorrow and would rather not fail it because that 15 mins is the random off as opposed to the random on. I know should have posted earlier How do I go about diagonising this problem and fixing it tonight so I do not have to be wondering if 1 brake is cutting in and out? Whats the best way to check the grounds? I am a novice to car electrical so am really just fiddling and hoping at this point and really could use some help. Any advice, tips or help would be greatly appreciated. As reference, I have a 1971 240z originally a series 1 but had the dash and engine replaced from a 1972. Let me know if you need any more information. I will try to take photos when I get home today.

This might also be a good guide for you on another opinion for a performance street Z and upgrades. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ I have used it for information before. It has a lot of good information I would recheck things against this forum using the search tool to see if it suits what you want from your Z. There are many great ways to tailor a Z to your liking and this is why many people love them I guess

I purchased a metra 44-PW22 power antenna after reading another posting from Dave (zsondabrain) which I can not find right now. Does not look completely original but does the same job in my opinion and I can show you the look and style next time I am up your way. Or even take a photo tomorrow if you like. This forum has ideas: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31958&highlight=antenna

I know 3M makes a good emblem adhesive: http://www9.3m.com/Product/information/Plastic-Emblem-Adhesive.html You can get at NAPA or local auto part stores and works better than other adhesives I have tried. Carefully with other adhesives as the eventually do not hold and vibrate off. I had this problem with my drivers side '240Z' emblem.

Thanks Kats great video

Not my cup of tea as it clashes with the black dash, but was is most important is that you like it

Ok good luck, always good to try the easy stuff first. Sorry I could not be more help

It has to be a series II with the chassis number of 35557 and I would say that it does effect the value as well as modifications to the car.

Man I would love this car! Need to start saving the $$$ for these cool items that are popping up