zcarcrazy

Thank you to everyone who has responded. It is so much clearer to me now. I will more than likely use the VB/BD (is that a band?) harness for parts, and using stock harness components, construct my own harness. Thank you also, FastWoman. I had read through your thread a couple of weeks ago, as I'm also considering eliminating my fusible links blocks. I'll definitely be referring to your experiences for my conversion. Dave, if only I had a larger budget. I would certainly opt for one of your modified harnesses. Your explaination of the VB/BD harness install dumbed it down for me. Thank you for the elementary walk-through. You're an electrical hero in my book.

I bought the VB harness - blame it on the gift certificate. I've not tried installing it, because I'm not fully understanding how you can use the switch and bypass it at the same time. The harness has two red positive wires that are to be attached to positive leads from the battery. This power goes to the relays that come with the harness. The only way that I can figure to be able to use the switch to operate the lights is to connect the original positive feed for the lights to the positive wires of the new harness. How does that take the load off of the switch? The current would still flow through the switch to get to the relays. Are you supposed to just hook the new harness to the positive wires of the original harness? WTH?!? I'm not the most experienced with electrical issues, but I catch on pretty quickly. Expecially if I have a few more details than the elementary diagram and chinese broken english written instructions printed on the package. I hate to say that this POS harness is the only think that I found from VB that I felt was worth buying. I can get any of the rest of their inventory from another supplier for less money. This harness is proving to me that it is useless. Thank goodness I didn't spend my own money on it. If anyone has any insight as to how this is supposed to be wired in, I'm all ears (or eyes, since I would be reading about it). BTW, I have a 280, so the harness that Dave is building will apparently not work for me. It's either this, or I'll just have to wire it myself.

I also bought a set of the black Z fender mirrors in the original Nissan packaging from Datsun Spirit about a year ago. His website is under renovation at the moment, but should be back up soon.

That car is entirely too sweet! The only bad thing is that I see a lot of mods on it that I was planning for mine. Oh well, they say there are no original ideas anymore. I guess this just proves it for me. I'll just have to try a little harder to make mine look better, ha ha ha.

Man, I think that those gauges look awesome! I especially like the boost gauge in place of the clock. He's obviously modified the car w/ a turbo, so why not modify the gauges too? Excellent job!

Thanks so much for the link! It worked out to be almost exactly what I expected (9.8:1 +/-). I think that will be perfect for what I have planned. I'll definitely have more questions coming up. Thanks for all the help.

Thanks, Mike. That pretty much confirms what I was thinking. I've seen the address for that calculator in other threads. Maybe I can find it and check it out. I'm just guessing that the compression will be just under 10:1. At least I hope it will. That seems to be the number that most of the other posts are dealing with/around.:ninja:

Has anyone tried (or knows someone who has) to raise the compression in a fuel injected engine. I have an F-54 block that I had thoughts of putting an N-47 head on. I'm going to completely rebuild the engine, so a new cam and that sort of equipment isn't out of the question. I also have a set of SU's, but everyone that I've talked to says to stay with injection if that's what I have. I think that the carbs are the flat top, but I can't remember right now. I don't want this engine for drag racing, but I may do some autocrosses or other track events as well as street driving. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Thanks everybody! You guys have really helped me out. BTW, I'm using a spare set of guages from a parts car. I like to keep the good stuff as original as possible. Thanks again.

That's cool. I'm going to keep looking around. There's another thread towards the end of this forum that has a link to a site, but it's not decals and they cost about $120. They have to get a minimum order of 20 sets before they'll produce any (tooling costs and stuff). If I find any other decals I'll let you know.

That's almost exactly what I was looking for. Thanks. The ones that I remember had a Z logo instead of Phantom. Do you happen to know where you got that image? Thanks.

Hey guys, I've seen decals to apply to your guage faces that are white, but I've been looking all over the internet and can't find them anymore. Does anyone know what I'm talking about and where I can find them? Any help is appreciated.