darom

Same here, installed Wesco seat belts - cheap insurance.

Will 76 belts work for you?

Same here - I didn't want to mess with zerks and bought the zerk-free u-joints. Btw, I am applauding the author of this thread for replacing all u-joints in the back. To me it was the most frustrating painful experience. I was using the Harbor Freight tool/vise with the impact wrench and I still struggled with my original 76 Datsun u-joints. It took me hours to finish them and in the end I managed to crack one of the half-shafts (had to find a used one). A torch helped the removal process. Next time I am going to freeze the u-joints. My driveshaft and exhaust were out of the car when I r&r'ed the rear differential/bushings and when I went to install it, I couldn't get 1/4 inch clearance to insert the yoke shaft into the transmission. I had to support the tranny with the jack, lower it at an angle to finish the job. I guess on 240z's you guys don't have this problem?

In addition to a bigger battery, install the Ford starter solenoid and run bigger cables to your starter/battery.

Silvey, jack the rear of the car by placing the jack under the diff pumpkin. Now try lifting and lowering the pass. side strut assembly. I suspect the rubber top strut insulator separated/got torn. It happened on my 76 and was making the clunking noise you described. It also can be attributed to the worn diff member top brace. Do a search for a Ron Taylor (RT) differential mount mod. But like GreenZ said, there might be quite a few causes.

I used this place to redo or add connections in my 76: http://www.vintageconnections.com/

It can be the busted t-stat housing gasket leaking onto the exhaust manifold or one of the rubber hoses for the preheating plate where the Aux. Air Regulator is mounted. Mine leaked in both spots. You also probably need to get the mechanic's mirror and check the leakage around the t-stat housing temp senders. Regards!

Found the rear strut insulator.

Does anybody have a used 280z rear strut insulator? I've contacted a few guys on the hybridz and locally, so far no results. I am going to call my parts dept buddy at Nissan. Out of my give-away parts my Chevy 350 block was finally picked up.

I think it was the same PO idiot who sold me his 76: - exhaust manifold bolted down using big a$$ machine screws (it leaked badly) - house door bell knob mounted on the side of the steering column acting as a horn button - hot ignition wire running through Bosch relay to energize the CSV (it worked without this) - 2x4 piece of wood supporting the moon roof from falling inside (I welded that ugly hole shut) - AFM ripped boot fixed with the duct tape - melted wiring on the side of the wiper motor which caused all gauges inside to fry including all relays on the RH side - brake booster had all the brake fluid inside and brakes didn't work, rear break calipers were seized - the engine sounded like a diesel - the timing chain ate away the guides and the chain tensioner fell into the oil pan - and to top it off, cheap Maaco paint job covering all the usual rust spots without any prep!

mjr45, tmohawk and stevej - thanks for posting the links and the picture. I am heading out to the ebay ford supplier.

Ptero, my 76 is doing the same thing with the reverse gear. My 5-speed is a fresh rebuilt unit, I found some posts mentioning that since there are no syncro gears for the reverse, we will hear the noise while engaging the gear. On mine, I do have to press all way down to the floor the clutch, to avoid the grinding noise. All other gears are fine. We probably both need to adjust the rod Zed is talking about.

mjr45, thanks! I checked Lowe's, but didn't see anything that resembled old Datsun fasteners.

colbydc5, what are you going to do with the fuel tank drain bolt? It is so much easier to just undo it and drain gas vs. siphoning it through the fuel filler cap :-)

Check your TPS, the FSM shows how to test it (very simple).

Mjr45, if it is not too much trouble, can you post a picture of the Ford fastener with maybe outside diameter and height measurements in mm? I will visit my local upholstery shop and try to locate these. I am using sheet metal screws now to hold my panels (painted black). Thanks!

mjr45, would you happen to have the Ford's part number for those pins? Thanks!

I like Sarah's idea - also I would have added a 10 second timer to the HORN part.

Fuel dampers are mechanical devices with a diaphragm inside. Once they fail, they might restrict fuel flow causing lean conditions. I found an interesting post discussing the fuel dampers on Toyotas: http://www.offroad-toyotas.com/forums/toyota-truck-4runner-archives/9491-know-what-fuel-damper-print.html Personally, I took mine off when I replaced my fuel pump.

Brento, when you are done with the above FPR test and if it shows an increase in PSI with the same acceleration symptoms, don't rush to get another fuel pump. Hold off until you test your fuel damper. Bypass it with a longer fuel injection rated hose, and take your car for a test ride. The fuel damper sits right above the fuel pump and very easy to access. Let us know the results.

Ptero, you will need the 73 Factory Service Manual, electrical part, to figure out the other wires origin. The FSM shows the color codes for the wires and also the plugs location which makes it easy to troubleshoot. You can test any relay with a voltmeter and a 12V battery. Regards!

Here is a nice write-up on this procedure: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/seals.html

Cesar, welcome to the Z family! I have a 76 and now I wish I would have bought a 75 or older model to avoid the CA smog! I have had "fun" trying to pass it. It took some $$ and reading the Factory Service Manual a lot. You should download the FSM, Fuel Injection "Bible" and the colored wiring diagram for this year right away.

KDMatt, here is my original post re: the lean condition: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?41973-TPS-smog-and-high-CO-discussion

The PO's Airtex E8312 on my 76 showed all healthy signs (good pressure at idle and with a starter solenoid wire disconnected test), but under load I had some extreme lean conditions and engine bucking. I replaced it with a MSD2225, although a word of caution - this pump is a pusher and shouldn't be used as a puller. I found it out later after reading MSD forums. Mine works fine for now (I will keep my fingers crossed). MSD techs advise people to properly mount them below the fuel level of the tank. I guess it works due to a relatively low fuel pressure in stock Datsuns (under 40 psi). KDMatt, put a voltmeter on your fuel pump electrical wire leads, remove the starter solenoid wire, have your assistant turn the ignition key to START and see what voltage you are getting at the pump. It should be almost exact as the battery's one.