DC871F

Car is on a rotisserie completely disassembled. I understand how its put together, I was just asking if someone knew of a place who makes aftermarket parts for this area. Thanks.

Hi all, Is there an upper door sill repop available? I have significant rust on both driver and passenger side where the thin vertical piece where the door closes. It looks like a gnarly repair if you were to start cutting it out and fabricating it. The car is on a rotisserie. It looks like there are a few joints there from the inner door sill and outer. THanks all.

Thanks. WHats the process in drilling out the very front of the rail where it goes into radiator support? Is it just a butt weld, or are there spot welds in there?

Hello all, just received front frame rails, pans, and rear supports from Zedd Findings for my 73 240 I have done some searching, but I cant seem to find a good pic of the front frame rail on how to remove it cleanly from the radiator support structure. Looks like it may be pretty complicated to remove without distorting some metal up front. Pics? Advice? Also, whats the best sequence of installation for front rails? Front rails first then go rearward with pans then supports? Thanks all. Note, all components have been removed from the chassis, its a bare shell, just added this pic for reference.

The tach jumps around occasionally. Had a turbozx a while back do it severely along with engine misfiring. Distributor and module fixed it, but since I been through a few of these already, it seems the rebuilt units arent up to snuff anymore.

Jumps around occasionally. Thats why I'm wondering if the rebuilt units of today are just too long in the tooth.

I did extensive work on it while trouble shooting last year. O2 sensor was bad, so change it, EGR, new injectors, rewired and installed new injector plugs, throttle valve sensor checked, cleaned water temp connection, all new vacuum hoses, you get the picture. When I put the last module on, it really seemed to do the trick, but now when you accelerate right around when you think it should keep accelerating it just hits a brick wall and its held back. Starting from dead stop through the gears it does fine, just when you start asking a little more out of it is the issue. I thought the fact that distributors and modules were giving me different results, that I would just chuck it. One module out of three would even allow the engine to accelerate past 1500RPM while just revving the throttle linkage in the shop. Whats up with that? Maybe these rebuilt components are reaching their life span.

Well, I'm going back to a problem I was trying to diagnose last year. Two different distributors (Rock Auto) three different modules, with varying results. From no higher end performance, the original problem (stumbling on the upper band of the power range). Then complete R&R of the distributor and module with which resulted in worsening undriveable symptoms. Then I ordered another complete distributor with module and just changed the module that resulted in about 70% improvement. Result, Stumbling idle when it warms up, and high end power loss. Intermediate power fine, highway driving fine, just not when you downshift lets say into fourth gear and stab the throttle, starts to hesitate towards higher end before you would shift to 5th. And I'm not winding it up towards the yellow arc or anything on the RPMs. New cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, coil, and injectors.

Is there an aftermarket electronic ignition that works well in stock 280ZX?

Not so sweet. Keep us updated on what he says. I talked to the owner of the company a few months ago and he seemed very pleasant.

Sweet! This is what I decided to go with as well.

So after reading the schematic, trying to make heads or tails, I finally figured out how to make the power antenna work like factory with an after market stereo installation. Hopefully the back of your (new) radio has an "antenna control" wire included. This antenna control wire should be butt spliced into the (factory) green wire that goes into the factory radio. On my 82 NA car it was on a 4pin plug that had only 3 pins used. Next, the (factory) antenna control 4pin plug with only 3 pins, "Blue"," Blue and Red", "Blue and White" that is connected the antenna button for short range or long range (skinny switch with an antenna symbol). The "Blue" and "Blue and Red" need to be spliced together and secured with your favorite method. I pulled the pins from the plug and soldered them together then wrapped tightly with electrical tape around the factory wire bundle. This will allow the radio on/off button to raise and lower the power antenna, or when you turn your car on/off with the radio on, the antenna will raise and lower as well. Enjoy.

Car is completely disassembled, assessing the rails. Obviously the rears and the floors need replacing, I'm hoping to save the seat attachment points, we'll see. Front rails need some love, not sure yet if replacement is needed. Front cross member is rusty but only on the rear portion, it appears clean on the inside other than a couple of areas. Ill be removing the battery tray to address the firewall where it attaches to the rear part of the fender wells on both sides of the car. Pretty gnarly. All the brake and fuel lines are off at this point now.

We got jammed! Lone Star.....

Ewwww. Is there a hemorrhoid wheel, or aftermarket attachment available?

I wonder how they figured out 2700 RPMs were the right amount?

Merry Christmas.

I was just thinking of the same thing. Funny stuff.

Guilty. I have had a mint 240Z hatch in the baster bedroom closet behind my wife's clothes for a few years now. Just couldnt put it out in the shop for it to get rusty. Maybe I'll move some of her clothes out and put the Webers in there as well............

I had it in a bag and big plastic container, but after a while I started getting a bad feeling about how long it was actually going to be just sitting. I know its not an exciting subject, but I appreciate the input.

Since I'm restoring the 240 and hope to be installing these Webers in a year or so, what is the best method for storing the carbs? I have the tops, was just inspecting them. Thanks guys.

We did, and you put a little fear in me so its all good now. I looked at the attach points and nothing moved.

I am a mechanic, but not a restorer, and I have decided to weld and fix all my rust issues on my 240 and fully restore it. I have the room to do it. I can see if you dont have the room to do it may make it more daunting, but where theres a will theres a way.

Looks like a young Dusty Springfield.

MMM!