DC871F
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Everything posted by DC871F
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I took it off.
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No, I will need a bunch of Bourbon if I start going on the other side of the car and pulling fuel lines off. Not opposed to it, but not tonight.
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Put the old module on the new distributor, fixed the hesitation problem (the original problem) damn! So now a new problem, which I hope is the TVS valve since I have adjusted it without mercy . During low speed driving and you let off the gas, it seems the fuel just cuts off, same accelerating at low speed, then it will drive normal. High end it accelerates nice and smooth. So the distributor with the OLD module fixed the issue. Which honestly I have issue with, unless there is an unseen issue (mechanically) with the old distributor. The car has 119,000 miles on it. Any thoughts?
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Yes, engine stops (stalls).
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What kind of problem were you having? I did not have the cover off, but I trouble shot the TVS earlier, it seemed to check out.
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So If I made a living from fixing 280ZX's, I would be really hungry, divorced, and sleeping under a bridge. New distributor is on. Now it wont accelerate past 2100 RPM (no load), then just quits. If I slowly push on the accelerator, say about 2000 RPM, the RPM will pulse between quitting and 2100. Timing is close to 8' as I can get it. I adjusted TVS, and if I adjust it anymore other than where it is now, it wont even accelerate, it will just die. All the meanwhile it idles perfect. All this is static in the shop, cant even get it out to drive because it will just sit there and backfire. I'm almost out of ideas, other than a bad TVS. Theres a saying, enough horsepower you can make a brick fly, maybe if I spend enough money I can make this car run, or more education.
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I don't think the vacuum advance is the reason for my issue, but a bad ignition module. When I first got the car back on the road, it ran strong for the next few drives. Then this hesitation set in. It's so stark, it really seems it's dropping cylinder. But the kicker is, finding that sweet spot where it accelerates nicely. Intriguing, yes, to me anyway.
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Thanks all. I need the whole thing, my vacuum advance is bad, and to find just the advance is impossible. What do you guys think of the module curing this problem? There is a thread here that they guy says a new module cured his problem of a cylinder that was dropping. The 31-1002 is what all the searches on the autoparts houses say mine is. I dont quite understand that, but.....
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Comes with new module, but I'm waiting on the third one to arrive from O,Riellys. First one they sent to the store for me to pick up was a core, no joke, even said core on the box, complete with used dirt and oil. Second one they sent me, the module was broken, cracked, and fixed with RTV, so the checks in the mail.....
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Hmm. Will a test unit determine a bad ECU, OB codes? I have talked to a couple different diagnostic shops, and they say its almost impossible to extract "relevant" information from a test unit for this vintage. I'm pretty sure the TVS is good. I have a new distributor on the way since I need a new VA can, plus maybe a little troubleshooting with a new ignition module. I really hate throwing part at problems, but it does serve a little purpose just to get the vacuum system back in shape. I was reading on a thread back a couple years ago, that someone had a cylinder dropping off, and after a bunch of troubleshooting, a new ignition module cured the problem. I admit, I am more of a venturi and float kind of guy, so at this point, I am doing OJT on this engine, but after reading that thread, I feel a little compelled to go ahead and invest a distributor and module. I do feel its dropping a cylinder, which make no sense, but I have been through most things twice at this point. ECU? Maybe a diagnostic code search is in order. Is that worth my time or should that be under the category of remove and replace?
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I took AFM off the car, inspected under the cover, clean as a whistle. I also looked at the vane movement, felt nice and smooth, no hangups, not dirty inside the airflow side. It bogs in all gears, I was just giving an example. Deficiencies in communicating in this manner definitely rears its ugly head doesn't it? In 5th gear doing 65 MPH, you can stab the gas peddle to the floor, and notice the car being "held back", but if you do the aforementioned "throttling" of the gas peddle, sure enough you'll find the sweet spot and its off to the races. I really hate to go back through the fuel injection, but maybe theres something up there. But I dont want to muddy the watter quite yet.
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ZCardepot resistor. I assumed it was 10 ohms, but reading it actually doesnt say. When I get back to it I'll measure it.
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Man, another great idea, thanks. I got mine up on the front of the fuel rail. I really dont think the resistor is going to fix my problem. I tried it 10 different setting from high to low. Its the ZCarDepot resistor. I'm waiting for a distributor to arrive to hopefully find a cure. Accelerating through the gears, by the time you are up towards halfway through 3rd, it just stops accelerating, foot buried. But if you modulate your foot, you can find the sweet spot and it will go. I swear its dropping a cylinder. Timing is correct.
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Mic check 1,2..
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Installed resistor. Any offerings on how to set it? Trial and error? I set it mid-way and saw no change. Back it off a little, then went towards the other direction, still no change. There is definitely a sweet spot to where the car does accelerate cleanly, flooring it acts as if a cylinder is dropping off. Re-checked vacuum, found a small leak, but didnt change anything appreciable.
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Just checked RockAuto, they have it in stock. A-1 CARDONE 19B156 {#44001F5490RE, 44001P7290RE} Reman.; Includes: Caliper, Hardware, and Bracket (Sweepstakes Entry!) Info Rear Right; with Metal Piston
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Fuel pressure checks ok, Not quite 30 at idle, but a solid 37 at acceleration. I'm a PSI off, but may be the gauge.
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Hey you're right. I was stuck in the frame of trying to read ground.
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I did the test with it on the car. It just showed an open on all three terminals, not "0", or a large resistance reading. The ground I used was good. Re-installed TVS, took car out and drove it about 90 miles. There is definitely a "sweet" spot on the accelerator peddle, about 75-80% full throttle to where the car will accelerate smoothly. Also, I think the fuel consumption is way high, but that will have to wait till tomorrow to confirm how much gas it used, it may be the fuel sender lying to me. I will go out tomorrow and do the insulator test through the ECU plug, since last time I did all 3 tests with the TVS disconnected.
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TVS clean, no defects I could see. Filed the contacts, cleaned, reinstalled. Still cant get it to pass the insulator test on p.82, whatever that test means. Maybe theres a short in the 3 prong plug, but it looks intact. Just for future reference for anybody else. You have to drill the 2 small pop rivets to get the cover off.
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I did that about 25 years ago with a TurboZX, that was a huge mistake. And I was at work when I did it, it was a long herky jerky ride home, LOL.
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It will be the first place I go this morning, after it warms up a little. Could have got 4 240Z's working in the time this ZX is taking.
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Yeah, disregard, had the TVS disconnected, so....... Its 25 degrees tonight in N.FLA, been back and forth between fire place and garage, forgot to hook the TVS back up. So at least I dont have to chase wires tonight. So if the TVS does not pass the insulation test, I'll at least need to replace. Would this cause my issue?
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Did the procedure on p.82. For some reason its not testing through the ECU plug. Testing the TVS directly I get continuity on the idle and full open throttle. I do not get a good test on the insulation test. When testing through the ECU plug, do you need a ground jumper? Thanks.
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Yes, have wait till I get a gauge, until then I'll look other places. Aftermarket pump installed with the rest of the fuel system components.
