DC871F

I thought there was discussion a while back about this, but can't recall the details.

I'm at the point that I need to weld in my patch panel inside the cowl area where the fresh air chiney lives. If a system like the Next Gen is going to be installed, do I need to put the chimney back, or should I just delete it? Its already cut out, just getting ready to install my patch.

Hey, I'll take it, its not yellow. Already sick of the yellow.

Man, I know I keep commenting on this build, but you need to sell passes to the club members like a Disney ride to come see this thing when you're done. Thanks so much, this keeps me motivated on my 73 build.

Truly inspirational build.

I'm a firm believer no matter the restoration, cars arent meant to sit. I always can fix rock chips etc. But you bring up good point. When I started messing with Z's 30+ years ago, who would have ever thought these cars would be valued like they are today. I'm doing a rotisserie job on my 73, and never thought that I wouldnt use it regularly, and I still plan to, but if the car is worth several thousand dollars after restoration, at what point do you not worry about a paint chip, but being a target for theft just because the internet says an old cheaply made Japanese sports car is worth $xxxxxxx. I know "D" hubcaps arent 73 correct, but I plan to run them, and now I'm concerned about that, just because how expensive they are getting, I mean you just pop em off with a finger.

I have an option of buying a series one in the 900's VIN. Its mostly there, but the body will need some finessing. All of the regular areas of bad rust seem to be clean, just some panel work, etc. Rails and floors are actually solid.

What would a 1970 Z with a vin number under 1000 be worth, assuming its intact and mostly original?

Mmmmm. I flew my wife in on Christmas day, had prime rib, baked potato and asparagus at the hotel.

I travel the world for work, more days than I can think in hotel rooms, I'm thankful for this site to keep me in touch with the outside world I'm familiar with and all of the wonderful conversations and knowledge here. I know it may sound corny. But in the hotel looking out over the empty city out there on Christmas Eve, I'm pretty grateful. Oh, and Ebay.

Just beautiful. I take it this will be a restoration to bone stock?

I'll just pick the rarest color and interior combo and bill it as that, what could go wrong? Honestly though, if the car is restored, new paint, interior, are put into a certain category to begin with. Originality is out the window.

I see what the issue is. I left out the word color in my post about "still calling it original". I would like to do it the original color so IT can be original as far as color. Of course I wouldnt say it was the original paint, thats silly.

Can I tell myself it original, in the mirror? Lol.

So to get the wheels in the air for maintenance on a 4 post, whats the trick? Why not a 2 post? They have short stands for vertically challenged spaces.

We all talk about originality for cars, and you hit the nail on the head. One of the big reasons for trying to find out if it were indeed possible to find the original specs for the car, was to see if I can just paint it the way I want and still call it original. I'll know more when I go see the car. I would think there will be somewhere to see original paint. But it was 100% disassembled and each piece painted.

Not at the car yet. A project I'm trying to acquire from someone.

I agree. I'm planning to go look at a project that has been stripped pretty thoroughly, I was just hoping to see of there was something in records just in case. Thanks.

So with old VW's, you can write Volkswagen and get a births certificate for your car. I havent seen where anything like this exists for Datsuns. So how do you find the original color of the car without the little sticker up front if its been striped to bare metal? Maybe I have been spoiled by VW.

Did you get the arch panel from KF? O dont see where they offer that part anymore.

Wow, fantastic!

So anything below 1776 on the HLS side of things (on this list) is a 69 production car? EDIT: Re-reading your articles, I see the note you added, about being hectic at the factory. But I'll still leave my question intact above, which I'm guessing that really means no that 1776 and below are not all 69's. Thanks.

I just realized YOU ARE THE AUTHOR! Lol. Can I have your autograph? So, I can ask you directly. VIN 1776, is it HLS? Thanks so much for you guys who have such insight.

So this article was really the reason for my post. I understand the HLS and HS, but the header above all those VIN numbers say "So far, the following 1969 Production Year HLS30 series cars have been located:" I'm only on my first cup of coffee, but it looks like all those numbers are HLS- regarding the author of the article. An error perhaps? If you look at the last large column of VINs, 1776 is listed as 12/69. I'm assuming 1776 is a HS-xxxx. But I hate to assume. 179 of first 500 69 Production 00502 has a production date of 11/69 00503 has a production date of 11/69 00504 has a production date of 11/69 00506 has a production date of 11/69 00512 has a production date of 11/69 00513 has a production date of 11/69 00525 has a production date of 11/69 00538 has a produciton date of 12/69 00587 has a production date of 12/69 00591 has a production date of 12/69 00684 has a production date of 11/69 00784 has a production date of 11/69 00789 has a production date of 12/69 00793 has a production date of 12/69 01321 has a production date of 12/69 01776 has a production date of 12./69

What VIN numbers were manufactured in 1969? I found a few conflicting articles on what was the cutoff. I read where there were 500, then another said up 1100.