Jump to content
Welcome Guest! Please read more information about our club!

DC871F

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    646

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

 Content Type 

Everything posted by DC871F

  1. DC871F
    I get all that, I wasnt sure about removing the front rail because thats all the structure there is firewall forward as as far as any boxed beams longitudinal. I figured since the upper and lower radiator supports are solid not much flexing can occur. New floors will be in before I do any front end cutting. I've seen where jack stand sufficed for support, so I did plan on that.
  2. DC871F
    Hey great point about the cross brace. So I guess I would tack it in in a just a couple locations and bring the cross brace up to make sure it fits correctly. I'm really hoping not to do any front frame rail work at all, the passenger side looks like it should be fine, the drivers side looks a lot more crunchy. Wont know until I get in there.
  3. DC871F
    All right, been looking around, and no definite answers on bracing to R and R from frame rails. Are there any worries on frame twisting? Upper and lower radiator supports are solid.
  4. DC871F
    Yeah, especially on the upper rocker where the escusion plate will be covering them as well. Mama didnt raise no dummy.
  5. DC871F
    Ok, I think I understand. Cut the slots, shape each one then attach to the tunnel, correct? I been watching the guy on youtube "Fitzee Fabrications", and he has a video on doing that technique for butt welds. Thanks so much.
  6. DC871F
    Oh wow, good to know. I have done about 7-8 small patches so far, and all of them have ground out real nice. The firewall piece was the biggest to date. I sat and looked at for a long time before going after it. It wasnt too bad since the passenger floor pan is removed and I can get pretty good access to it.
  7. DC871F
    I have been to his thread many times, and when I think to go look for something I chuckle, its like an Easter egg hunt. I do remember him cutting pretty large slits in there. How far do you cut into the pan?
  8. DC871F
    The splatter only happened on the test piece. Running 75/25 at about 20-25psi in a closed shop, and it was clean. The firewall section I welded in I was able to come at it on both sides, so its in there good. I have my air hose close by to cool things off quickly, so it in there nice and flat.
  9. DC871F
    Yes. I tack weld the panel in, then start to fill in with a bunch of tack welds. But here is a problem I am having, and keep in mind I am no welder, this is all OJT after practicing on coupons. I am having issue with penetration, but if I up the current I start blowing holes. The first pic is the backside of the piece I grinded smooth. It looks good from the outside but on rear I cant get the welds to close up, too cold I'm guessing. Back side.
  10. DC871F
    Nit picky yes, but I dont think any 240z should be in this realm as far as the money were talking about. Am I missing something?
  11. DC871F
    I got a set of ZF pans for 240z, when I looked at the tunnel area on the new pans, I got a little concerned. I plan on cutting as low as possible on the tunnerl to not have to start getting Big F Hammers out. How did it go for you? Any advice? I did get the KF seat mounts.
  12. DC871F
    I have one of these. I made a new chimney and there are several pin holes on the shelf area that will need to be fixed. I plan on using a spot media blaster inside the cowl area to clean it all up and the make patch panels. Along the firewall it looks like a pinch weld, just forward of the chimney. Plenty of rust on that seem, I'm contemplating cutting out the vertical area there on the firewall and patching, right where the negative battery terminal bolts on a welded nut. I'm not sure what the best way to correct this will be. Any thoughts?
  13. DC871F
    New edition to the shop, plus some fire wall and battery tray area cutting and welding. New Kobalt compressor. This is my first real attempt as being a fabricator, and I have to say it kind of man handled me, but I hope my grinding skills can overcome. Frame rail has rust just right in this area, I plan on cutting a patch for it. Its all clean from the part I cut out forward, thank God. The other side still to be determined, its a little more crunchy.
  14. DC871F
    All normal in the 21st century. If you notice with popular or infamous topics in the news lately, everyone is an "expert", the louder they are, the expertyness they are.
  15. DC871F
    Congrats! I'm knee deep my self.
  16. DC871F
    I'm in my 40's, and had my first Z Car when I was 16, and then many other Z's followed including about 4-5 240z's. With that said, I'm not really pleased with whats happening to these cars. I also have had many Oval window Beetles and still have one, and the same thing is happening with those cars as well. Zero reason for a 1957 Beetle to sell for $50,000. I cant see why these cars are becoming unhinged with value. I still drive these cars everyday, go to the store, take trips, leave them in hotel parking lots, etc. I not sure you will be able to do this if this kind of thing continues. Can you insure one of these for 6 figures? You would probably get laughed at by the insurance agent. Other than the early VIN cars, these cars are not rare by any stretch of the imagination. So why the hubub?
  17. DC871F
    So whats the deal with not running fresh air vent with the VA system?
  18. DC871F
    Great minds think alike and I agree, I kind of have to after making up a new chimney already. I figured I would make up a panel with to fit underneath the dash with some rivnuts and use a gasket to seal it off.
  19. DC871F
    It wasnt easy. Drill the spot welds off of the rain gutter over the vent (the easy part), but then you have to get in there with whatever you can find to cut out the duct. If yours is rusty like mine, then actually thats an advantage as it already weak so you just start hacking at it. If your dash is out you can come up from underneath, if not, it may take a few beers and profanity.
  20. DC871F
    Ok, so I'm restoring my 73 240, and ran across a few threads about the Gen system A/C unit which I plan to install in the future. I read where the fresh air duct up in the cowl wont be needed. So I just finished making a new duct and patch repair to weld in. The question is, a, I spitting in the wind to do all this? Should I just weld in a blank and be done with it?
  21. DC871F
    They are mostly intact as far as I can tell from the outside, but looking in where I cut off the pan rail forward its very crunchy in there when I shine the light. If I just cut and paste sections but miss rust, I'm concerned that the restoration on this magnitude will be in vain if I have to go back in later on. I'll evaluate when I can get a bigger picture inside the rails.
  22. DC871F
    I have a question for you guys who have done frame rail work before. I am replacing my floor pans, and pan rails, I also need to replace the bottom part of the rails that mounts in just aft of the tension rod mount. I'm also replacing the front frame rails as well. I will be doing this obviously one side at a time. Here is the question. Is there a specific method to this? Meaning, should I put the pans in, then replace the rear part of the frame rails aft of the tension rod mount first, then do the front rails? Is there anytime where you risk bending the front geometry of the car if you just remove all of this at once and start replacing? No where have I seen on any build threads where any added bracing was welded in to prevent warping the front. of the car. Thanks.
  23. DC871F
    Progress today. Passenger floor removed, still a little left. Also received Klassicfab seat mounts. Rear floor where it attaches to the frame before it makes the upturn is really clean. My plan is to use this to plug weld my ZF floors to. Where pans meet against sills are alsovery clean, so far I'm lucking out. Drill the spot welds and attach new ones. Never done this before, hopefully they go it clean. Frame rail just forward of the toe board is swiss chees. I have forward rails I got from Charlie, but do not have the parts that weld up to tension rod mount. A little scratch building perhaps. Inboard side on the tunnel is clean except one piece thatr goes up about 2 inches from the upturn. Going to patch that in when the floors are installed.
  24. DC871F
    I'm replacing both floor pans, so I'm going to cut them out with the floors. I like that spot weld chisel, never seen that before. If I can learn something everyday, I deem that a success. I'm going to pick up a band file probably today. I have a lot to learn. I've been looking at my 240 for almost 2 years sitting on the rotisserie after disassembly not sure wear to start. My wife told me to order rails and pans for my birthday and I went head first. It was a steep climb up the hill on the tools I was lacking.
  25. DC871F
    Why not straight like the S30? I have to say that I hate most news cars today, but this makes me want to go and drive one to see what its about.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.