DC871F

Thank you. I was pretty sure that was supposed to be the case, mine moves in slow motion.

ZED HEAD got the meaning. The first sentence I wrote was just asking if EGR valves open/close fast. Should have said (open/close). The finger method of testing ERG's is putting a finger on the underside where the diaphragm is to see if it is responding to engine RPM. Thanks

Are EGR valves fast acting? Meaning when you test them (finger) method, do they close fast? Thanks.

Car is running smooth, replacing radiator next week, just finishing all new brakes, rotors, calipers and brake hoses, brake master, clutch master, slave. I didnt realize it was going to take such attention. It has completely diverted me away from my 73 240 that I'm doing a full restoration on, but it has been fun, sort of. What doesnt make me insane make me stronger. Should be on the road to find more easter eggs once I do a road test. BTW, driver side rear brake calipers are getting hard to find for some reason, nobody had them a couple weeks ago. Had to rebuild mine which ironically was the one that was the most salvageable, hmmm.

Good idea. I was doing my best not to turn this into a "project", not that lifting the valve cover is a project, but depending on what you find.... I'm restoring a 240Z and I'm knee deep in it, I got the ZX on a whim, but you are right, I probably need to back off a little and really look at it so I dont do any harm. Whats funny was the amount of smoke produced when I first started it, epic. The neat part is that the rings all seated after coming up to temp and no noise on the top end other than the couple alarming knocks about 3 minutes after start.

My concern is that on initial startup, it had smooth acceleration, now a slight miss. Its not like an ignition miss, but like a little stumble. I'm afraid it ate something. Maybe getting it on the road an running it a little harder than I can in the garage it may clear out.

Now a slight miss at idle. I really dont want to entertain debris in an injector. A couple electrical connectors on the engine are way beyond usable (crumbly) but seem holding on while I test run engine, ignition module, etc. I rev engine to about 3K RPM and it seems smooth, but really wont know much until I get brakes finished and can do a road test. Maybe a vacuum leak.

I have had a lot of Oval window Beetles. I have a 56 currently.

Success! Thanks for all the help. If you were here in the shop there would be cold beer. Purrs like a 280ZX is supposed to. Lots of smoke from the tail pipe which cleared, a couple knocks on the top end which went away, I guess we will see if that manifests into something detrimental once on the road. Now onto the coolant leaks. No oil leaks, no fuel leaks. Good oil pressure, charging system working.

Damn, already got set of 6 from ORielly for $24........ I saw those on RockAuto, but figured I would just go locally with no shipping cost. Injectors going on today, results in near future. I'm replacing the fuel rail. Did the Q-tip test as ZH suggested, RUST! So I actually had a fuel rail in storage from years ago, nice and clean.

Yes I plan do the seals as well. Also new injector plugs, the old ones if you look at them wrong they start crumbling. Results when I get them.

Just bought them, thanks for sharing.

Seals are cheap. Hard to believe, but all insulators are nice and not cracked. GB Manufacturing injectors on RockAuto are $24.79 each. My clamps are in good shape.

How about the cheaper ones? The FJ707 might eat into the budget for a few other things for the car. I have zero knowledge about what are good or bad injectors. Thanks so much for the help. Years ago I would just go to the junk yard and throw them in, maybe I just got lucky, but that was also 20 years ago when most ZX's were in the junk yard at that time for just a few years.

Removed injectors, all were stuck, got them to finally click after a lot of coaxing from a 9v battery, one of them wouldnt budge at all. I'm glad I found something.

No Clicking. I have also pulled some spark plugs to see if they were wet, and they are not. So if ECU has its own ground, I may have missed the noid lights in the bright conditions in the shop yesterday, they are kind of dim. If the noid shows pulsing, I'm going to assume the ECU is doing its job, correct? The injector harness is intact, then the next place to look is going to be the injectors. It's bothersome though that all 6 would be bad/clogged, but I guess its not outside reality. Thanks again. I'll figure this out eventually.

I used the pins in the FSM for each injector. So if I went to ground from the ECU connector, the injector should have fired. I understand that it needs a pathway, which I'm pretty sure me grounding at the connector did. Maybe my wording above said something different. Now, I will go ahead and admit to a major error in my troubleshooting. When I was checking with the noid lights, I forgot to bolt the ecu back up to the bulkhead, so no ground, (cough cough), that came to me about 2am last night in bed, funny how the mind works. I had the ECU out just make sure there was no obvious damage. SO, I just went out and checked with the noid with the ECU grounded, and yes, pulsing, a long road to this discovery, but I'll take it. Still no fire off. Injectors next.

Not lost, just re-routed. So the Haynes book says make a plug to use in the injector plug, spin the engine above 80RPM which I did. It did not show power (no pulse), then I discovered the FSM here on the site, which I them proceeded to do the various functional test which long story short, I do show continuous power in the injector circuit, but after getting noid lights, I confirmed that there is no pulsing at the injectors, which was in fact what the first original test confirmed when I made up the rig that Haynes said to do. I think the root of the problem is the ECU or all 6 injectors are stuck. More to come.

Not new to wiring, I'm an A&P mechanic used to troubleshooting avionics, autopilots, fixing jet engines, etc. I can read a diaphragm. But I am not too big to take advice or learn something new from guys that have been doing this sort of thing alot longer than me. I have power on both sides of the injector plug, I just got a new set of noid lights which did not pulse. I show power from the ECU plug pin for the injectors, EFI relay is good, Fuse links are good, good battery, good ground, good gas, good pump, good spark. I'm guessing that the injectors can be seized from years of sitting, or maybe the ethanol got to them. Or is it the ECU? The car sat for several years, and for ZX's its pretty clean for having so, fuel delivery may have been the reason for it. Tank was completely shot, full of rust, but that may have been due to sitting and not the cause of the problem. I installed a clean tank and replaced a couple fuel lines which showed no signs of sending rust downstream. Fuel rail is getting and sending clean fuel.

Did the coil test, didnt hear any injectors firing, grounded them at the ECU plug, nothing either. Oil and gas in cylinders fired engine off, but still no fuel flow from the injectors.

When I just was using the Haynes manual, It had a picture of a simple test light that was made up to plug into each injector plug. It said it was supposed to pulse above 80 RPM. So I made a similar test light and plug. I inserted it into the injector plug with nothing happening (no pulsing). I plug it on the hot side of the injector plug and then to ground and it shows power. If i'm not getting the pulse, does that mean the ECU is bad? I plan to do ZH's recommended test tomorrow from the coil to see if I can get the injectors to fire.

I meant to say Meant to say to "Cold start valve". Ill give this try tomorrow, I really appreciate your help.

Why does that make the injectors fire?

I will go try this, thank you.

I tried that with a test light and nothing happened, which started this Easter egg hunt. (No pun intended)