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h4nsm0l3m4n

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  1. After I’m done replacing the diff and tranny in my 260z I would like to get rid of my crappy flat top carburetors. My original thought was to go with round top SUs from Ztherapy which is what everyone on the forums seems to be recommending. Unfortunately the price is rather expensive. I don’t have any of the cores so if I read their website correctly it will cost me 980 for the carbs, balance tube, and linkage. The guy that sold me the transmission has been working with Z cars for a very long time and he recommended converting to a 4 barrel carb using the Arizona Z car manifold. The carb he recommended was the Edelbrock #1403 500cfm (not the Holey 390). This seems was a much cheaper option, 300 for the carb and 300 for the manifold. I am very much torn between these two choices so I thought someone might help me out. I am not going to be using this car for racing anytime soon (much as I want to). It will be driven on a more or less daily basis, so the system has to be reliable and as fuel efficient as possible. Performance is also a factor, I’ll tend to weight my choice toward what brings more power to the car. Finally, price is also a factor as I am on a pretty tight budget (I’m a student). If the performance and fuel efficiency is about the same I’ll go with the 4 barrel conversion. If there’s a definite advantage to the SUs I’ll go with those. Can you guys help me out?
  2. That would definitely help. Any idea where I could get a hold of one?
  3. Thanks I didnt realize that, both are replaced now Although, as I bought it, the car has no bumpers at all I'd say the car is definitely a 74.5 or older. I'm not even sure how to get started trying to re-title it as a different year. I guess I'll call the DMV tomorrow, maybe they can give me some insight. This might be a pain but its better than having to worry about passing smog. Thanks!
  4. i finally got it started again, the line was clogged with a piece of the dowel i used to plug it when changed the filter (im not too bright) that had broken off somehow. After I cleared it out it still wouldnt start. I had to pour some fuel into the fuel line right before the mechanical fuel pump to get the car to start for long enough so the electric pump to kick in (since it only works when the engine is running correct?) and send some fuel from the tank. After that the car idles fine. This is kind of an odd thing about this car. It actually didnt have a front fuel filter, it just had the one in the back. I havent worked on the car much but I do plan on replacing the rubber fuel lines, and putting in a front fuel filter. I bought the car from a dealer which sold old cars, the guy there told me the car was given to him but had been in storage for a while and he had gotten it into semi-running condition. As a result the tank probably does have some rust and sediment in it. I'll check the tank as soon as I can. Yup, it says 1975 Datsun on the title. I'll check around to see if changing the year on the title is possible. I live over by PCC Sylvania, near where I-5, Barbur Blvd, and Capitol Hwy cross.
  5. Well that will sure make smog a breeze, 1975 is the first year they require smog checks in oregon, if I can get it running again. IS there is a way I can reregister it as a 1974 I wont need to take the test? The car has the original pump, both electric and mechanical, from when I bought the car (recently). Theyre probably due for replacement but the car was working ok at low speeds before. I am hesitant to think something clogged the lines, at least in any major way, since the car would, at least, start up before. It was only after I changed the rear filter it actually stopped starting up, which leads me to believe I broke one of the pumps. Is there any easy way to quickly test both pumps to see if they are running? If the pumps work then that will at least let me know there is something in the lines I need to clear out, right?
  6. It is the carburated model, and actually it was the back fuel filter I changed, sorry if I was unclear. As far as the year I couldnt say exactly, but the serial number is that of a '75 260z if this website is correct:http://www.300zx.cl/ga/300zx/images/serial%20number%20Datsun%20Z%20Car.htm Is it possible that I damaged the fuel pump by forcing it to suck on air for a while? Thanks for the help
  7. Hello, I have a 1975 260z. It drives fine around town but on the freeway once I get to about 55 the rpms start slowly dropping until eventually I have to pull over. I turn off the car, turn it back on and it runs ok again. My first guess was that it was a bad fuel filter so, feeling confident, I went out and bought a new one and changed it out. The car started right up at first but eventually it sucked up all the fuel in the lines but no new fuel is coming from the tank. I know I installed the filter the correct way, so that cant be it. Is this due to air being in the fuel lines? Or did I break the fuel pump? Maybe both? Any help would be great.

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