Zedrally

Yep, happened to me 6 or so years ago. The tapered dowel gave way with a resultant tap, tap ,tap and loss of power. From that day onwards, every time I have the cover off the head, first thing I checked was the security of the dowel. Hopefully there is no piston damage, apart from a nick or two, but you have a major job coming up on the head. What can I say? Apart from advising all that read this thread to CHECK your dowel regularly. MOM

I think you have looked at it from the wrong perspective. Consider it this way, firstly if the caliper bore is full of fluid topped to the brim, so to speak. The screwing of a suitable bolt into the thread will actually force the piston free by hydraulic pressure. Assuming of course that the bolt can actually be screwed into the nipple, I've just looked at a front caliper and it appears that on the face of it it, this would work. MOM

Hi Dave, Welcome, you will find many other Aussies on the board. Which historics have you competed in? MOM

Hi MAX, Yes, the block is notched, I'm surprised your engine guy wasn'rt aware of this. Maybe, it's time to find someone who knows the "L" series.... MOM

Wonderful, Send to PO Box 2254 Oakleigh 3166 Australia I'll send you back a jar of Vegemite! MOM

Not meaning to hi-jack the thread, but you've obviously seen reason and decided to keep the zed! MOM

Oh you lucky, lucky person. Well done, glad you found one. Out of interest what sort of ballpark figure is it going to cost delivered?

OK, I'll conceed, now can anyone advise me where I can purchase JB Weld in Australia? MOM

Just to clarify, the Silicone is used on the captive nut, not as a thread. It has that little bit of give, rather than a snap... MOM

I've been following this thread and agree that this has been an excellent post. I hadn't thought of using a rope for holding a captive nut. JB Weld, well what can one say, except that another posibility might be to use a Silcon Sealent. It would allow a little bit of give, just in case. Thanks Enrique, this is one of the reasons that this "club" is the best. Now, can anyone explain to me HOW nissan got the damn things into place originally? MOM

Is your 280 RHD? Parts might be hard to find as we didn't get 280's. The zed series finished with 260 Flat top Carby's. My advice is sell what you have and buy a 240 when you get over here. MOM

No, you want working temp ie the temp going to the bearings etc, that occurs after pumping & filtering. If you measure sump temp then you are measuring the splash cooling temp.

NO NO NO, don't tap the sump, you don't take Oil Temp from the sump as it's the hottest place and most in-accuate. You need to take it from the block. The best place is from near the oil filter, preferably with a dry-sump setup.

What model zed are you talking? I've actually replaced the non functioning clock with a voltmeter in the 240, that way I can monitor charging and battery condition. MOM

Not everyone.....

All those knobs were black plastic [at least in OZ], could this be another little variation in export models? MOM

After reading the info, I'm having doubts that BSP is the thread type.

Try this, after measuring the thread. www.newmantools.com/taps/bsp.htm MOM

Hey Rick, Supercheep Auto had them advertised in last weeks Xmas catelog. Immediately thought of you & the thread! Merry Xmas MOM

Another good case for locking threads up........... MOM

There were 2 different "models" of oil sender as well. These needed to be matched up to the correct gauge or as you have found there is little indication of oil pressure. I believe the early model [the one you need] is no longer available and the only solution is to use a compatible gauge from an older zed... FWIW MOM

Graham Alexander/David Stewart Datsun 260Z 7hr 11min 50sec is an ozzie team, not sure about the others....

Very good question to raise. Balancing is understood, however can someone please explain Blueprinting? MOM

Check out this site, it's the updated link to the Redneck Neighbor thread. http://www.joespc.com/carlos/redneck.htm MOM