Zedrally

I really don't know if this will help, however, I had a similar problem with my 77. It would start & idle fine but the moment you applied throttle it cut out. Like yourself, it baffled everyone that looked at it. The zed sat in the garage for months idleing away occaisionally when I had time to look at another angle. In my case it was a broken wire on the condensor, which to all appearances appeared ok, but moved and opened circuited when the vaccum advance plate moved. I should mention that the distributor is an evil hack from an unknown datsun which a PO replaced the original with. This type has the condensor mounted on the vac. advance plate, inside the distributor, not exterior like most zeds. As I mentioned it may not be the condensor, however, check around the wiring and see if there is a spot where it's going open circuit.

Rick, why don't you use/modify the air cleaner setup from the old carbies? [what make are they anyway]? MOM

If you have gone to the trouble of electro stripping rust from body parts, have you considered either galvanising or copper plating the parts? This would solve the problem of concealed ares becoming vunerable to rust and could possibly be the ultimate solution? MOM

How does authentic qualify with year of manufacture? for example how could a part made in 1973 with the same part number as the same part manufactured in 1969 be authentic in a 69 model zed? It may look the same, be the same etc but it wasn't manufactured in the same period. Starting to sound pretty much like the handbrake thread re-wrapped! Zedophiles....you've got to love-em....... with warm regards MOM

If you have access to a press then by all means you can press it out. Whether you can find a replacement bearing is another matter entirely. I'm awaiting a swap from another L24 [Chris, if you're reading this, I'm still awaiting your postal address]! MOM

I had the same problem. Tired to pull the bearing with no success [although it did free it up]. Awaiting replacement part as I type. MOM

Hi Kats, Nice to see you back! I managed to download it OK, even @ 28kbps! Lovely graphical item of history. Was that a shot of a 1600/1800 red fairlady sports as well? MOM

Bill, that would have to be the most wackiest idea I've heard today! The metal is way to thin to use as a stamp, you could however use it as a mould for a carbon fibre bumper...

Thanks Carl, I had only just recently re-read your article on fan clutchs. hoping that it may have included instructions on re-buiding siezed units. I would only add to your explanation that the direction or rotation of the fan unit is only due to the orientation of the bi-metal spring. To alter the direction, one would only need to invert/flip the bi-metal strip 180 degrees to achieve harmony of the fluid coupling. This is of course unproven and may remain so........ Now back to these counter-rotating engines, with matched counter-rotating gearboxes and matching diffs....have to of French origin, wouldn't they???? MOM

Just a couple of points. The clutch is split as I write [had a siezed bearing which I've tried to press out, managed to loosen up, but still unsatisfactory]. There are no blades or vanes which make it operate in one direction only. My experiance with any item of machinary which is intended to be driven in one direction only, is that an arrow indicating direction is always cast into the body. This is not Internally, there is a disc with 6 * 13mm holes [actualy 1/2 inch so this one may not be an OEM]. Note there is no rotor or stator which would make it turn in one direction only. [i haven't actually worked out how it operates yet, perhaps someone else has an indepth explanation as to how and why it can only operate in one direction]? Second point and most important is which engines are counter-rotating that these other fan clutchs are made for?

Wouldn't this mean that some engines run in opposite direction? I smell a rat somewhere! PS. I just looked at the clutch off a 260. It appears to run in either direction. It's split in 2 right now, there is no arrow indiating which direction it should rotate in nor are there any vane, blades etc that would indicate that it should be operate din one direction only.

Oops... I should have requested the whole unit, not just the cover. Anyone?

Just in case there might be 2 out there, I'm also looking for one!

Gav, Carl et el, Below is copy of a response I recieved from Bilstein [Aust], for file. $1400 per pair may seem excessive, however, When I had the Koni's done the cost was $500 per corner. So for a Strut complete with non-adjustable Bilstein insert, it is comparable. Now I really need to justify the swap! MOM Mike, Unfortunately we don’t have anything “off the shelf” for the 240Z that’s adjustable and due to the style of the front struts it will be expensive as a cut out needs to be made to the base of the struts to gain access to the adjuster dial. This is due to Bilstein Monotube adjustable race dampers have the adjuster at the base of the strut. Cost would be: (all prices are per pair and include GST) Front/Rear struts:- Height & Rate adjustable (Rebound only) - $2800 Rate adjustable only - $2500 Height adjustable only - $1600 Non adjustable $1400 Springs:- Range from $165 to $276. As far as settings go, is the car mainly used for tarmac or gravel rallies and do you mind sacrificing road driving comfort for stage times? Most people we find the non adjustable system works well, this is also what we build for Stewart Wilkins Rallying (Has a lot of experience with Z cars, ph (02) 4577-2400, info@swmotorsport.com.au ) Good person to contact. Hope this helps Regards Travers Wood Bilstein Racing A Division of Sydney Shock Absorbers PH: + 61 (2) 9557 5930 FAX: + 61 (2) 9550 3270 www.bilstein.com.au 461 Princes Highway Sydenham NSW 2204 Australia -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mike Novak [mailto:unigold@universal.alphalink.com.au] Sent: Saturday, 8 January 2005 12:26 PM To: motorsport@bilstein.com.au Subject: Information required. Hello, I am making enquiries regarding availability and pricing for a pair of adjustable front shocks suitable for a Datsun 240Z. The zed has been used for HRA events [light rally & TRE] in Victoria and was/is running Koni's at present. It also doubles occaisonally as a daily driver [i can't help myself]. I'm finding the Koni's totally unsuitable and it has been suggested that air shocks in particular Bilsteins are most desirable. Any information regarding a Bilstein setup, including springs etc would be most grateful. Regards Mike Novak 43 Portan St. Oakleigh 3166

Wasn't that the one that cost $26K US in 1978 and increased horsepower by 4 %?

There aren't any obstructions to the emmission system, I guess it was just a blockage of some description, possibly a varnish buildup? In reality I'll probably never know. HIH others who "think" they may be experiancing a pump failure....

Name on top is ATSUGI, I had thought it was the OEM, now I'm not sure what OEM was!!!!! It certainly differs from your pump, in so far that the casting is integral with the bottom diaphram. I'll try again with a thumbnail highlighting the differences. atsugi.bmp

Using the thumbnail again. From the "breather" hole drop a vertical down to halfway on the pump casting. Then place a horizontal line and imagine a breather about the same distance as the vertical drop. Sorry I can't do any better, no digital. Will check out the name etc on the pump tonight and post tomorrow. MOM

Using the thumbnial above I've added an arrow to indicate where the breather is on the pump of the '73. Looks like Nissan used different pump types! edit: Doesn't look like this worked either....

Oh, this pump isn't like mine. The holes in mine are just rear of the pivot, in the body of the cast, not the pump!

This will be the eternal discussion point revolving around the definition of stock. Isn't stock just the basic car/whatever without any additions as it comes off the assembly line? Any factory/dealer options added after that point would be original accessories?

I have a vague recollection that the Yuasa was in yellow.

If you had read the whole thread you would realise that re-building hasn't solved the problem for those that had! Therefore there must be another reason for the cause, no-one has been able to offer any more insight as to why this should occur. A reasonable answer is that a slug buildup occurs rear of the pivot are, the oil that accumulates behind the buildup finds it's way out through the breather. Unfortunatly, as mentioned in a previous post, I'm unable to confirm or deny this as I had foolishly cleaned the internals of the pump, before realising this may have been the cause and thus was unable to perform a through inspection, looking for any buildup/obstruction. Time will only tell... MOM

Sealed up the "breather" hole and no more oil problem....

Love to hear more about it's life in the SL's. I lived & worked in and out of there for 6 mnths back in the early 80's Given the lifestyle, I surprised it wasn't attacked by headhunters and given a cut around the sides!