Zedrally

Thanks Biker, Were you able to determine why the pump went bad?

Well the only thing that could fail [and the pump still function] would be the oil seal below the diaphram. I really don't know, I'll try to find a seal kit and do a re-build just to isolate any potential problems...

OMG, Your absolutely correct. The pump does mount on the head, not the block. So I will now rephrase this as different L26 Heads.

Ah yes Carl, I agree up to a point. In this case there is no seal between the mating surface of the EDP and the breather hole. The first seal you come across is after the breather. The diagrams make it quite clear that the seal is after the pivot arm. Oil mist/blowby is quite free to move between all these areas. And most probably provides lubrication to the underside of the diaphram. It may be possible that there was an obstruction at the bottom of the pivot which prevented oil from draining back into the block and accumulating in the casting. This however, I'm not able to now prove as a did a total clean of the interior of the casting, removing much oil etc before I was satisfied it was totally clean. In hindsight, I would have been more careful on the initial inspection and should have noted any surface irregularities So I may never know the actual cause of this problem... Thanks for the brainstorming.... [still doesn't provide an insight into why there is an open breather in a closed system, though. Maybe another thread some day, some time...]

The 2 holes on the horizontal are at similar heights on the block. It is the lower or 3rd hole which makes the EDP "taller/higher". As an example [but not actual], take the 2 hole pump to cover a surface area of 50*50 [a square], whike the 3 hole pump is 50*75 [oblong]. The corresponding hole in the block must be similar. Another way of describing this might be that while the 2 hole pump will bolt on the 3 hole block, it does however leave a gap of "x" amount open to the atmosphere.

BY allowing an open breather, it appears to be a contradiction to what the system is meant to provide. i.e. a closed crankcase emmision system.

Hi all, The puzzling oil leak from the fuel pump has opened up a couple of interesting questions, as to the geneology of the engine blocks of the L24 & L26. Seeking technical guidence, I made some comparisions with the FSM of the 330 series [known as the 260C in Australia]. The fuel pump in this is still an EDP [engine driven pump], which surprised me as all 260Z's here came with an electrical pump. Bit retro maybe as Nissan may have had an over abundance of EDP's and this series didn't suffer from vapour lock The surprising "find" was that it was actually a 2 hole bolt on EDP, whereas the 240Z was a 3 hole. [When inquiring about a new pump, I was asked if it was 2 or 3 hole, which made me think it was for a L series below L18]. My 260Z has a 3 hole blanking plate here. Now this makes it appear that there is a difference in the Block, even though they are to all intents and purposes they are the same. The technical diagrams make the 2 hole pump not as "high" as the 3 bolt, [more squat] which would mean that there is a difference in blocks! Can anyone confirm that there are in fact different blocks in the L26 series

Update.... Last night it was still pissing oil, so once again off came the pump. I had never noticed the small "breather" hole near the rear of the pivot arm. After a very close inspection and clean of the offending item, I applied a small amount of silicon sealent to cover the hole. After a vigorous drive this morning, I am proud to report that the problem has been ultimatley been solved. It does however leave two questions. 1. What was the purpose of the breather hole? 2. Was it originally filled? If anyone has a new pump could you please check, as I tested for obstructions in the breather/crankcase emmission system and found it free flowing. Further investigations have also found that a repair kit was available, exploded diagrams and instructions appear in the Haynes Manual. I haven't tried to locate one as I'm not appearing to need one. Cross referencing with a 330 series manual [260C] has opened up an interesting subject, I'll start a new thread [2bolt pump/3bolt] pump so it doesn't confuse this thread. Cheers MOM

Well this raises the possibility that there is nothing wrong with the pump and tha cause is actually a blockage in the breather.... Roll on weekend....

Another good idea. Thanks....

Thanks to all that replied. For the record.... The pivot hole was cleaned of all visable oil and de-greased. I used silicon sealant to plug the hole. An OEM pump in Aus is $171.84 +GST =$189.03 AM = $117.30 +GST=$129.03 OEM is 3 day delivery AM 1 day. Wonder if there is a repair kit? MOM

Addendum: I've just sealed the hole where the pivot goes. No oil leak. I can't see how the diaphram could be damaged as this would only result in gas being pumped into the crankcase, rather than oil appearing on the side of the block, rear of the fuel pump. I guess I'll run carefully over the next few days just to be sure... MOM

That would explain why I've been noticing a slight smell of gas..... Thanks all, should I go OEM or would an AM pump be just as good?

Would it be possible that the bushing of the pivot on the pump is worn and causing this? Looking like a new pump, isn't it!

Hi all, I have a puzzling oil leak in the L24. Bear with me and if you have any input don't be afraid to post. Gradually over a period of 12 months, I've noticed a small buildup of oil, over the past 2 months it's become more than a slight drop here and there, so over the xmas break I decided to do some indepth investigation. 2 weeks ago, armed with a high pressure spray unit, I cleaned down the whole RHS of the block, including the fuel pump and front timing chain cover so I would be able to observe and trace the source of this leak. Conclusion/deduction from last weekend was, Oil was not dripping from. Front cover Cam cover/gasket. This left only the fuel pump gasket, which after cleaning up the area seemed to be the source of my problem. Not having a spare gaskets. I decided to remove the pump and inspect the soundness of the gaskets, which after cleaning they appeared OK, but had been tensioned down. To see if it was a gasket problem I replaced the pump and gasket using a thin film of silicon, let it hardened and tensioned the assembly. Feeling like I solved the problem I shouted myself a rum or 2 and patted myself on the back. After using the zed yesterday, I re-checked the block and to my shock it was dropping more oil than before. I'm convinced it's located in the fuel pump region and am wondering if anyone has experianced a crack in the casting or similar that would cause this. The only way I have of testing this theory is a new pump, but why replace something that isn't broken! Any ideas out there.......

From the thread I take it that this is a bolt on conversion?

I've just registered the details on the 3 cars that have been in my possession. Can't help for thinking out aloud, but would it be possible to include RHD zeds that made it to other parts of the world, eg UK and Europe etc? There RHD status bonds them all together. Love the way you've set this up, the inital visual stats on the page are impressive. MOM

Isn't there a clutch in the compressor that just disconnects the pulley from the rotor when the A/C is switched off? The 260 model down here came equipped with a magnetic clutch. I'd be inclined to try a swap into, from a 260, preferably a 2+2! The clinton manual has some various pages about factory air. MOM

You don't know what to think. 17 yesterday and 37 forecast for Tuesday!

Some of the later 240's had a dealer installed A/C here is AUS. The compressor and brackets from a 260 would fit, however it's the inside componants that would create problems. Try ringing around some of the zed shops to see if they have the bit's you need.

Carl, I've just requested information & pricing from Bilstein. From a quick scan prices appear to be around AUD 280 a pair. Whether they are available in th US may be another problem! The www site is http://www.bilstein.com.au/.

Bilsteins are undoubtably the way to go, no argument, I simply passed on my hard earned facts. When I had the suspension up-graded, I went along with the zed guru and accepted that what he fitted was suitable. It wasn't and thats the reason I report the un-suitability of Koni's for rally related activities. There is a possibility that I got stiched up and didn't get what I paid for, is there any way of being able to see what model Koni I've been using without pulling the strut? All that I have is a white adjustment knob that is only usable now for the rears!

@ 260 a pair is a very good price. I take it that is all labour or was it only the overhaul/service on the shocks? LAstly, which Peddars quoted you?

The S30 FSM is still available. Having both a 240 & 260, I usually use the S30 manual for both. Try ebay for an original 240.