Zedrally

Yes, it's all true. I've known Len for a few years, although I have lost touch with him in recent years. Thanks for the link... I had no idea he was re-creating these parts and will contact him for a replacement spoiler asap! MOM

Each to their own here. There is no "right" answer, but I'm surprised at the ferocity of the response? My reasons for leaving the 260 with "flat tops" was purely originality. Hence, my surprise after I overhauled them. Prior to this performance was poor, sluggish, you name it. After the Overhaul they performed as good if not better than the 240. Go figure? As I wrote above it is purely a Originality issue here, else I would go for FI.

Disreguard all those comments the wowsers wrote. Perform a search using flat tops...and reach your own conclusion... Reinterating what has previously written, flat tops when overhauled [like round tops] perform just as well. Simply put, very few people have the patience and skill to perform a succesful overhaul on these units, hence they are looked down on in preference to round tops. I run both, and believe me the flat tops are not to be sneized at. The choice is totally yours... MOM

I'll chip in wuth my 2c, I use heater hose jammed in to secure the cam chain, if you don't secure the chain then it will become a 20 hour job rather than 2! Firstly set the motor up so #1 cylinder is at TDC on the ignition stroke . ie at the end of compression prior to firing, the secure the chain, remove the sproket etc, installation is the opposite. This should be a 2 hour job, with experiance.

Contary to most views, it doesn't free up the motor at all! The power to drive the fan still has to come from somewhere, ie the altenator.Which you again would need to upgrade. Whatever HP you may gain you will again loose to the altenator. As I wrote the factory unit in good working condition is perfect for all conditions. It's a viscous type clutch which is engage when hot and dis-engages when cold. Generally speaking it is dis-engage in forward movement, after all there is already air flow through the radiator, engaging when standing. HIH Factory Altenators whhere either 45 or 55 amp from memory, 55 upgrade was with A/C.

Is there any particular reason why you are wanting to replace the fan? If the OEM unit is in working order, then there would be little gained by a swap? Perhaps it's at the end of it's life and the clutch is frozen? The easiest way of gaining more amps is to upgrade your altenator. Upgarde to a 60 or 80 amp internal regulated one. HIH

Have you cut open the old filter to see if there was a blockage?

Fuel Filter, change that and all will be well again... MOM

OH no... Thats a just a tacky hole in the roof that leaks... MOM

Interesting concept. It may be possible with a LOT of angle grinding, the complete roof would need to be exchanged somehow. I'm not sure if the curviture would match? The doors may be another problem. At the end of the day you would probably need an engineers report. As Datto said, simple answer No, complicated answer is Yes. My advice, buy a NX. MOM

I would seriously be looking for a new mechanic... Good luck MOM

He obviously knows zilch about zeds... MOM

Put the car in gear and use a long bar. I think you have other issues to face before you take off the cam sprocket. Do yourself a favour and do a search using the search function. Arm yourself with a FSM and familiarize yourself with the procedure, otherwise you will end up with the radiator and front cover plate off... MOM

THere is a simple modification to this. I'll try to write it up over the weekend. MOM

Aren't those globes the twin filment ones? I'd be checking that you have indeed got the correct globes in! MOM

Keep in mind that the ignition key most likely opens the glove box as well... MOM

Yes, he did say that he couldn't make them both. By this I take it he means that the gallery is either downloadable or not. Thats why I suggested that there are 2 separate galleries. Each gallery is an separate entity. One that is free for downloading, the other for items that members don't want to have down loaded. Hope that clears up any confusion. MOM

Why not simply have 2 galleries? Is there a problem with this, as I asked this question before and was ignored or is this thread being used to deliberatly provoke some members? Answer please moderators... Simply make one of non-downloadable. That would keep everyone happy. MOM

I would question the "sparkies" judgement on this! I've mounted mine on the radiator support panel. The smaller the wire run the less voltage drop, this is important if you intend on using Halogen inserts. HIH MOM

Yep, that would be the way to go...Keep a list of ride heights vs strut length if you can. MOM

Sounds like you've answered your own question... If you are reluctant to shorten the shocks then you have no option other than cutting the aformentioned 1.5 inch from the strut. Personally, I would not reccomend it, however you have the machinery and knowledge, so why not? My reason for not, is that the geometry is incorrect as the shock would already be in compression by 1.5 inches, you may need to use a softer spring. Will, would it be possible for you to use a "cheap" shock as a testbed for the shortened rod. Not knowing the warrenty that is usually given on shocks, I would query the warrenty after use in a modified strut anyhow... Interesting discussion... MOM

Could you reduce the length of the shocker rod by 1.5 inches? Of course, I have assumed you have inserts in place and not still the original shock!

Why don't you drop a big metal plate over it. Might be cheaper than any mods... Seriously, I gather you need to increase the actual travel on the shock insert. I don't think that can be done, perhaps shortening the length of strut by 1.5 inches is what your asking. It can be done, I haven't done it. Bilstein do conversions, modifications on struts used for rally purposes. www.bilstein.com.au [from mem]. however most rally struts are increased in length, so they may not be able to help. The struts on the 240 had coilovers installed with springs from a RX7, suitable for track/bitumen use only. I've managed to destroy them in dirt work. With the correct equipement it should be fairly straight forward, perhaps an engineering workshop could assist. MOM

I think we all need a bit of comic relief sometimes. Might just revive the How to Port & Polish Head thread! MOM

What sort of use are you considering? The only modification I'm aware of is in Rally use and increases the ride height and travel. MOM