Zedrally

You still should measure 12 volts or better. I do in the 260. 7v indicates all is not well in the system. Not being familiar with 280's this may be incorrect advice.

YOu might like to try fishing around with a magnet first, you never now, you might just be lucky. Otherwise, it's off with the timing cover, if you still haven't found it then it's the oil pan. By this time you will be kicking yourself and calling yourself un-repeatable names, but just hang in there. But do you need to remove the head.......drum roll please....No.

suggest you try the search function so we don't start another thread on top of other threads about the water sensor.

Well I'm at a loss as to HOW you all expect to "prime" the fuel bowls when the pump will not function unless the motor is running? Possibly, a by pass circuit the powers up the fuel pump when the motor isn't running? Forget the fancy options and just go with the pump with the in-built safety.

Ah, you beat me to it.......My money's on the alternator being IR! MOM

Ric, Check underneath, you may already have wires there for an electric pump. However, unless your are running triples or some other exotic carbie system the engine driven pump is more than ample. HIH

Thanks Alan, I've never seen it done this way before and probably won't see it again! Needless to say, Terra trips make life much easier! Mike of the Mire!

I understand what your saying but not comprehending how the drive was connected. As you point out, Halda's are mechanical and require a worm, gear, cable connection. This is the part I'm intrigued about, on the strut side? How was this connection made?

The water temp sensor was part of the emmision control system fitted on car with flat top carbie's. It main purpose was to control the electric fuel pump, in this case to dis-able it when the water temp was above a certain temp and revs below 300rpm [from memory]. If you have round top SU's and no electric fule pump then I can see no useful purpose for the sensor.

Now you have me intrigued, Alan. Halda cables ran from either the gearbox or "tee" piece from the speedo. The only modification on hubs that I'm aware of [and had performed] is for a Terra trip sensor. Is this what you mean or is there an obscure Halda electronic senor that I'm not aware of? FWIW, 260 front struts are considered superior [in OZ] for rally purposes, possibly this is what HKSZ may be asking? Cheers MOM

That just defeats the purpose. Lets face the facts, Rotery engines where not designed for s-30 cars. If Nissan wanted to fit a rotery then they would have designed the car around it. The RX7 is much lighter than a standard zed.

It would also be too light on the front end!

FWIW, I've always replaced all the bolts with head studs, just curious if there was any technical reason not to? Never had a problem losing nuts as Victor does, actually found it easier!

Does anyone now why there is a combination of studs and bolts?

I didn't realise that it was already on. I thought a bit later in the year after the olympics. Oh well it least it's been saved for this year, or maybe not as the Southern Cross is on again or is that off again? MOM PS would have loved to have joined you guys on your trip, any zeds in Europe for rent?

Word of advice here. If it were I, I would go for a Holden or Ford. You will find parts whereever you may breakdown. As many have remarked, 240K are getting a scarce as hens teeth and even though it isn't a WRC type rally, it's still pretty severe on any car of this vintage. On modifications, you should be careful as you may find yourself protested out. I did have a set of supps posted to me, however I've carefully filed them away and am uncertain of eligibility. Further on this aspect, if modifications are a free for all, then you need to remeber that once modified you may not be able to enter any other event. Check the CAMS Manual just to be sure. Good luck, these events are a real hoot, just remember careful planning will win through at the end of the day. PS The ideal car for this event would be a pug! [now I'll don a bullet proof jacket and duck]! MOM

I reckon the next LSM would be a good bet! Just to follow on from the Targa T being a Zed killer, I would hasten to add that's it's actually the driver, thinking it's a circuit race, not a rally causing all the casualties. There have been several consistant performances over the years by a few competitors who have a rally background. Rex & Lyn Carr spring to mind as one such crew. MOM

Sad aspect is that someone will buy this, enter Targa and prang it. MOM

Couldn't see the length of the inlet being a problem, good question about using the left or right, my guess is L R R.

Oh, ah, I've always had an interest in this type of set-up. If you don't want to go ahead with it let me know and we might be able to come to an arrangement on purchase of manifold.

Locked diff is OK, but not advisable. Ever tried to turn inside a goat track! Route charted events would be better suited to locked diff. There are many factors here, event style and class will in-evitably determine what you will and won't do rather than can't do. In all honesty, while this board is great for sounding out ideas, every state has different views. Victoria is probably in the worst position, simply because we have the National office here and any events are subject to intense scrutiny. If you can, join a Rally orientated club as the input you require won't come from a specialist car club. Been there, can't help or not interested in helping. Having said that don't let me deter you from posting more questions as we can only assist. MOM

For a start a FI 240 isn't allowed. It would only be allowed as a model run on as a 280Z. There is one only logbooked [PRC] that I'm aware of, there may well be others but not log booked. Our ex-president [hrA] had one and boy did he drive it fast, always at the pointy end of the field. As an aside he has always regretted selling it and has oftened mused about buying it back! Anyway, Basically, it's as stock as you can get [hrA or HRC, take your pick]. Headers or manifold aren't free, so forget about webers. You get a better deal with suspension as the zed was pretty advanced to the 1600. 1600 Tie rods had [have] a habit of snapping. You could change these to ones off a Torana [might be a Gemini], but last time someone did this, it was protested and a trip to the Stewards was costly. This is one reason why you see very few HRA members competing in the VRC! Brakes is another one, forget about those rear discs & fender flares, although I think you may be able to do the flares in Classic Class. The moral to the story is keep it basic and you can enter every event. Start Modifiying it and your filed is narrowed. MOM

Rally! Just the word for my radar to hit! Mick's quite right in what he say's, however, Rally is such a generalised term that you would really need to define exactly what you intend to do. Not sure of the competition in Qld, but down here you can have anything from full on ARC which the Classic Class to us old farts in HRA Historic Trials. Then you need to consider Tarmac [TRE] events. If you are doing a full on resto, then dirt may not be what you had in mind? I've rallied the zed in Historics, Robson Cup and Tarmac events, prefering Navigational style events rather than route charted one, I've come off the road a few times, but never sustained major damage. Mind you I'm not a fast driver either, just glad not to DNF. The zed with it's longer wheel base it doesn't bounce around like a 1600, so it's my pick rather than a 1600, but hey, I certainly wouldn't say no to a 1600 either! Be careful with any modifications you might want to do as you could quite easily have a trip to the Stewards. Have a read thru the CAMS Manual and also size up the local competition. On the whole turning up with a well presented Zed will always turn eyes. Good Luck and keep us posted. MOM

And now for the obvious question: Is there any noticable steering, braking, [or other] difference: 1. On dirt. 2. On Tarmac.

Never seen a white interior in a 240? Sure it's for a 240 gav? MOM PS You could always throw a sheep skin over them!!!