Zedrally

To my knowledge it wasn't remounted. I've never seen the battery position changed in a rally zed. Perhaps if the zed had a separate boot compartment it might have been a different story. Even so the zed was a heavy beast in comparison to other rally cars of it's era. I remember reading somewhere that the distribution was 55-45, which is regarded as pretty good for something that isn't mid-mounted!

Ha......... Talking performance here, not looks!

I can never rember them being raced head to head. Datsun tended to put more into rally resources at point in time, reliability was a big issue and the 240 proved it. Probably a good reason why the Torana XU1 didn't go well on the rally circuit! In it's final V8 form it would have outclassed the zed in the straight, but lost it cornering. [the managment is not resposible for any in-consistancies here-in].

A good place to start would be by cleaning your battery terminals.

These two HS30 RHD could well be 003 & 004.

Thanks Kats, Further proof that all you read in books, should not be taken as gospel. Still leaves another interesting question. Why the gap in numbers? Logic would dictate that when you issue an updated specification it would follow from the next serial number, not skip a thousand or so [memory]. Any ideas why this discrepency has occurred? MOM

What conversion is that?

I'm pretty amblivient to them. The 240 has one, the 260 I had re-covered. When I get the time I'll do the same with the 240. MOM

Hi Kats, Could you please reproduce the bulletin: Engine-Mounting-Insulator Bolts. Dated 8.3.1971 This bulletin makes mention of differnt VIN numbers applying to Manual & Auto Trans HLS 30 models, and implies either there where 2 production lines or provision was made for different models having different numbers along the line. For example the bulletin commences with model numbers HLS30-13330 & HLS30-1487, indicating that the modification that was made [at the same time] yet applied to different VIN's. Ta MOM

Halz, The Japanese have been bringing there cars over here [Oz] for testing since the mid fiifties. Possibly the most famous would be the Bluebirds & Mr K. in one of the round Australia Trials, can't remember exactly which one but I don't think it was REDEX, but then again maybe it was, in fact I'm sure it was. 1B6 would have been a Teenager then! There is a photo of them somewhere on this site as I think the topic was touched in the RH/LH handbrake thread!

or Bluestone College!

I think that the bar is actually called the Balance Tube, might be wrong but it's not life threatening. I gather you will be restoring it with top carb's. There is a good thread on them on this site. Work carefully and you will have a responsive motor. Good Luck MOM

EGR was standard on 78's out here [Oz], cross over bar, do you mean rear sway bar, if so then it was standard equipement as well.

ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL

A heated unit usually is bigger [& more $$$$], however it can be more cost effective. Because I'm polishing with rouge, new solutions every few hours become mandatory, so it doesn't affect me as all new solutions are just off the boil and the sonic generates enough heat to maintain temp! Although, I'm thinking your unit just isn't powerful enough. Do you have an e-bay ref, so I can have a look. A picture is worth a 1000 words...... Like Clive's idea as Al is a mongrel to work with, must try!

Will, Are you suspending the parts in the solution?

My last experiance with metal bits, excepting jewelery which I work with daily, was the re-furbishment of my flat tops in the 260. I typical use a splash or cleaning or cloudy ammonia and common dish washing liquid top up with boiling water. No hard and fast formula here approx 50ml of each into a 500ml beaker, top up with hot water and into the sonic. Note I use a water bath as a medium, easier to maintain clean solutions. Similarly, use a solvent, petrol thinners etc in a beaker with a water bath. It may simply come down to the unit itself, not being powerful enough. For example I use a L&R T-9. Had it for 25 years, maybe longer. Have destroyed the transducer several times! Hope it helps Mike

What sort of cleaning fluid are you using?

Well, I guess that only someone who has access to the Service Bulletins could, perhaps Kats or Alan T? Odd we haven't heard from either to date? Radar on Alan or are you below the coverage?

No takers on the fact that HLS30-13330 & HLS30-1487 [& others]were manufactured at the same time? MOM

FWIW, I may have 3 5spd boxes in July. MOM

I would certainly have to agree to dis-agree wiith you on this. Many Clocks that I have serviced attract lint, dust and the occassional mouse do-da in the most sealed environment. The Tach mechanism would be more sealed than the average mantle clock. Having said that a silicone grease would be a suitable alternative, MOM

If you go down this path, "Moebius" oil for french clocks. Available from Watchmaker Supply houses. While your there buy an oiler or make one using a .5mm piece of wire. Only the minutest amount is required. Just to give you an idea, I have bottle here that was passed down by my father. Size would be about 50ml and he used 5 of that in 40years of wathmaking! I couldn't suggest grease as the friction would be far to great [sticky]. First plan of action is to clean the movement first, never having stripped a Tach before I can't be of any assistance, however all dirt, old oil etc must be cleaned from the pinon and jewel [if used]. You could use a little carb cleaner for this, work with a fine artist's brush, preferably under magnification. Welcome to the world of Intrument repair! MOM

After reading KATs's reply to Service Bulletin's, I pondered whether there may be a master list of these somewhere? Food for thought as some gems may be found. And so forth, this morning I was having a flick thru Wick Humble's book HTRYDZC and stumble across this on page 195. Under selected Tech Bulletin Summeries, this was writen [not reproduced in it's entirity]. Engine-Mounting-Insulator Bolts. Dated 8.3.1971 Begining with HLS30-13330 [manual transmission] & HLS30-1487 [Auto Trans], Higher strength boths were used.....and on it goes. It appeared apparent that there must have been 2 production runs in th early stage or was there 2 assembly lines? Now, one could read a lot into this. The first one being that numbers # 1487 through to 13329 where allocated to auto trans models. If this is so then early numbers would have late build dates and so forth. If not, then why the huge gap in numbers? Confused :cross-eye MOM

Just the thought of you driving around with your head thru the roof has me in stiches..... MOM PS how about a write up of your adventures in the South?