Zedrally

That dreaded clunk is definately one of the joints on one of the half shafts. It may not be apparent with the wheels on the ground, however most members on this list would be suprised if it was anything else. [possible, but not probable]. Jack up the rear [both wheels] and double check, it should be quite apparent from where the clunk comes from. I think the "leaded" grease you mention is graphite grease.

Alan, I don't want to alter the nature of the thread, however, without discussing ergonomics, simply is there any apprechiable difference in driving the LHD or RHD versions aparty from the obvious. Is there any performance differences such as better handling etc? With our pre-empting you I would think that the RHD version would have to be better balanced and thus a better 'handler' on the road or was there ballast added into the LHD to counteract the im-balance? Keep up the good work, we all look forward to your reports from Japan.

You're up late tonight Alan! Ha... the exhaust, never thought of it being underneath there and being a built in toe warmer for those Northern Climates! Long live the land of Sunshine and perpetual warmth.

I also find it hard to imagine. The only time I've heard of a similar event was in Dirt Rally competition with 510's. There control arms have a habit of breaking and the solution was to replace them with gemini ones. Longer thread and no problem. Which begs the question. Didn't the zed suspension evolve from the 510? If so then the control arms must be of a different design as I've never heard of complete failure as such. On the other hand if the control arm in question was from a 510 then it doesn't surprise me?

Alan, I have to ask the question. Which is better to drive, RHD or LHD. Having only driven RHD zeds I have no idea if they drive better from the left or right as designed? Any others out there that have driven both versions?

Hi Prince, welcome aboard. You might like to contact the Prince Register. Victorian based or at least it was if it's still in existance? Last contact I had was Noel Sinclair [going from memory]. The register was affiliated with the NDSOC. Contact Alan Fides the moderator of OZ regional discussions for more help.

Absolutly fantastic. No one could ever dispute the facts as they have been presented, staright form the head of the design team. Pity though, as we don't have any argument anymore and the thread was slipping into obscurity! How's the definitive book progressing Alan?

DC circuits switch after the load. There is another thread somewhere on this site that explains it, or states it. I think it has a lot to do with the current [amps] that the accessories draw and it is preferable to palce any switching after the load. It has created a lot of confusion at times when looking at car electricals. Maybe someone with a more experiance can help in the thread. HIH

You are aware of the firing order on the dist cap runs anti-clockwise? Just a thought?

Ha, never saw my driving lights mount. Bull Bar was the best description until the scuts went to town on them......... Aside this, it's always been apparent that each state had it's own foiables when it came to speach. Whether it's a schooner, pot or pony it all goes down the same. Cheers and it's your shout. edit: left out "handle", anyone with any more?

Ozlime is correct in his method of running all these elec accessories from the Alternator, the reality of it is that you may quickly run out of space on the terminal. I did as I was running relayed low beam, high beam, 2 sets driving lights all seperatly relayed and fused. It had the potential of becoming a rats nest all to quickly. The solution... Run the heaviest cable you can from the alternator to the starter, then use the starter terminal as a bus for all your accessories. No noticable loss of brightness in the H4 or drivers. It's also preferable if you need to do a quick changeover in a rally due to toasting your altenator!

I believe that there is also a smaller diameter SU that was used in the triple ''S' es. From memory they have a smaller suction chamber and throttle body, and can be confused with 'zed SU's. Anyone with further info?

Use www.qantas.com.au as a gateway. Woollagong [& I don't think thats the right spelling either] is south of Sydney, maybe some locals can chime in now! Enjoy your holiday, I now that you will enjoy it here.

Mick, Try a squirt of WD-40 or CRC. It's worked for me several times.

Before you go to the expense of buting a new switch, try cleaning the contacts with a contact cleaner, you could even give it a squirt of CRC etc. If there has been any buildup there this will loosen it and re-jevinate your switch at the same time.

Pardon my ignorance, but would this also be possible on SU's?

Just in case anyone is interested, here is a photo of the new GTR that will be released in Aus in 4 years time!

So in your opinion, OEM-replacement Kayaba's which you mention would be OK for moderate dirt work?

If the engine ran before you adjusted it, I would suggest that you adjust the cam sproket back to where you had it and see if the engine fires. If it does then adjust the sproket in the opposite direction to what you originally did. THis 15 degree adjustment is obsolutly critical. Good luck

Probably because there are better conversions around?

Similar price wise to Koni's, if there an air shock then it would be a better investment. You mention the production run requirement [20], aren't they available individually from the distributer?

Are these gas shocks? Are the springs usable with stock 240 struts or do you require a modified strut for the extra clearence?

Absolutely critical. Do yourself a favour and get a Factory Service Manual. It will pay back it's purchase price many times over in the future.

U Joints will clunk. Wheel bearings sound like a rrrrrrr and will change pitch with speed. My bet is wheel bearings.

The Factory Manual states no sealer is necessary. Although, in actual practice I would recommend using high temp sealer on the exhaust. The exhaust manifold is prone to developing a "slight"warp and sealer is cheap insurance against that posssible and very annoying exhaust leak that hampers the z series. [sometimes]!